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2002 Defender 110 no main beam


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Checked Fuses, both OK, checked bulbs same, but no power at bulb, new dim/dip relay behind facia, still not working, so ordered a new steering column switch which is the only thing that I can see is common to both sides.

All fuses under seat OK.

No main beam and also no blue light on dash...

Will keep you informed, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.

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Checked Fuses, both OK, checked bulbs same, but no power at bulb, new dim/dip relay behind facia, still not working, so ordered a new steering column switch which is the only thing that I can see is common to both sides.

All fuses under seat OK.

No main beam and also no blue light on dash...

Will keep you informed, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.

Just had the same symptoms on my 110, required a new steering column switch only £92 :ph34r: from local stealer Marshalls.

Did the trick half an hour job provided you can get the steering wheel off.

John

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And when you connect the new switch, add some relays... The current to the headlights travels straight through the switch, which is why it tends to overheat. You do not want this to happen on a bendy A-road in the middle of the night...

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Just had the same symptoms on my 110, required a new steering column switch only £92 :ph34r: from local stealer Marshalls.

Did the trick half an hour job provided you can get the steering wheel off.

John

I went for the Paddock's Britpart switch at a more sustainable £25.00, and the wheel has a QT boss and a MOM steering wheel fitted so shoudl come off easier! (have problems with standard Landy wheel as my legs are so long they catch my hands under the steering wheel).

Switch should be here tomorrow in the post, will update you all when I fit it.

Mike, I like the wiring for the lights, Ill add it to my list of things to do, but like most things, my own car tends to be at the back of the queue as fare paying cars have to be done first !

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I know. A cobblers bairns is always worst shod.

mike

The trouble is, I need my car to look nice as I want it to be a bit of a showcase for my work, but preparing cars for eventual sale is about keeping to the 'standard' rather than putting them as I want them, (Its probably like the house doctor on TV who gets them to paint the house magnolia to acheive a sale).

At present, the only car I 'experiment' on is my orange 90, which is great for testing things out, and I also tend to be my biggest critic. I still wonder how I managed to put up with working in London all day running a stockbroker's IT and building services (8 years is enought though) and I dont miss the calls at 2am saying there is a problem with the Hong Kong office !, I also dont miss the 3:30am start, and would not swap my lifestyle for anything, getting to do my hobby and earn money from it is very nice (sadly there's not much call for a 40something grey haird pot bellied gigolo :lol: , so Land Rovers are second best!)

BTW I assume a Bairns is some kind of equine?

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Ha it gets better!

Up here canny would mean shrewd, but pronounced identically, cannae means cannot.

Anyway back slightly to topic - Mike I am planning to do your headlight wiring but I am perhaps missing something (or it is assumed and I am not canny enough to know). Where does the feed to the fourth terminal for the relays (i.e. the one that runs to the switch). Do you break into the existing wiring (blue/red and blue/white) and so recycle its use or do you run a pair of fresh clean wires?

Malcy

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Ha it gets better!

Up here canny would mean shrewd, but pronounced identically, cannae means cannot.

Anyway back slightly to topic - Mike I am planning to do your headlight wiring but I am perhaps missing something (or it is assumed and I am not canny enough to know). Where does the feed to the fourth terminal for the relays (i.e. the one that runs to the switch). Do you break into the existing wiring (blue/red and blue/white) and so recycle its use or do you run a pair of fresh clean wires?

Malcy

He might be on his way to have an extended holiday so this question might be a while before he provides an answer.

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Thanks Nic

Just after posting I saw a post on LandRoverAddict to that effect.

Perhaps someone else who has done it might know and I might re-read the instructions for the tenth time in the hope that enlightenment may dawn!

Hope you sort your problem. Mine is not that dissimilar!

Best wishes

Malcy

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Ordered Paddocks item on Friday, bloke assured me it would leave that afternoon....

Saturday - nothing..............

Monday - nothing...........

Called them to see if they had sent it, and its still sat there waiting to go.

Moral of this tale (dont want to get into a paddocks bashing) but if its important, then get it locally, mail order just cannot be trusted for things you really want !

Lets see what tomorrow brings and sorry to LR spares as I cancelled the order with them cos they said they were having IT problems and could not access orders on Friday...

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Ha it gets better!

Up here canny would mean shrewd, but pronounced identically, cannae means cannot.

Anyway back slightly to topic - Mike I am planning to do your headlight wiring but I am perhaps missing something (or it is assumed and I am not canny enough to know). Where does the feed to the fourth terminal for the relays (i.e. the one that runs to the switch). Do you break into the existing wiring (blue/red and blue/white) and so recycle its use or do you run a pair of fresh clean wires?

Malcy

I'm still about for a couple of days......We fly Wednesday evening.

I use the original headlight wiring that went to the left headlight.

As I can't remember how I did it and the Defender's somewhere, or should be, travelling south on the Alantic Ocean I can't look.

Eithe make a short loom up with a Lucar connector for each relay and a lonf male terminal to push into the headlight connector block.

OR

Cut the headlight connector block off and fit a Lucar connector to dip and main beam wires. Then to the appropiate relay....

mike

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Well the switch arrived today, I fitted the new one and.......

STILL NO MAIN BEAM !!!!!

Have to take the kids out (wifes car) as they are on sumemr hols, and Im looking after them (far more important than any Land Rover), so we are going to the park!

The 110 is not drivable as I have the steering wheel off and the dash out, when I get back this afternoon Ill get the volt meter out and see if there is power at the switch. I am out tonight so will have to take the Orange 90 off roader to work (no radio etc)

Mike's fix might be on the cards anyway, but I have to get to the bottom of this problem, thankfully I have an LR workshop manual wiring diagram to follow...!

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Well Nick I'm still here.

Do you have headlight flash ??

I'm not at home so everything is from memory.

Wiring at switch.

Blue. Main feed to dipswitch from headlight switch. A pin on the end of one wore on a test light will go into the plug connections.

Check both sides of the plug.

Blue/Red.... Dip from the switch. Check it as well.

Blue /White..Main beam from switch.... Does that work. If it does there's a relay somewhere. Mine are behind the front panel [i think] by the fuses.

What year is your 110 ?

Have you checked the dim/dip relay ? That's the pink one on the bulkhead, basically behind the temp gauge and down a bit. Some you can just disconnect some you have to put a link wire into the plug.

mike

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OK so here is the full rundown:2002 TD5 110 -EX MoD police

SYMPTOMS

No main beam, no flash, when dipped beam is changed to main beam, no light at all from headlights, no blue repeater in dash

CHECKED

  • There is no power at the bulbs (BLUE/SLATE LH / BLUE/BROWN RH)
  • Dipped beam works OK, earth at lamp is good
  • New headlamp Dim/Dip relay (orange one behind instruments)
  • New Dim/Dim/indicator/flash Switch on steering column, switch has power in and power out which is switchable by mobing stalk
  • There IS power to fuses 25 (10amp - Headlamp LH) & Fuse 22 (10amp - Headlamp RH) which is switched (ie it goes on and off) when the main beam is selected or flash is selected.

Following the diagram, the fused supply feeds directly to each lamp, with only splices/joints in the path.

This leads me to consider a break between the back of the fusebox and the lamps......Possibly due to its previous life - might have had a headlamp flasher fitted with the blue lights?

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Reading your post I think you could be right Nick.

I would expect that, what I do not understand is why they split or connected to both headlights, maybe they had no choice, instead of just one.

Have you used a test lamp with a pin in one end to work along the headlight loom from the headlight ?

The main beam and flash should be wired on different circuits into the stalk.

That's the best I can do for you.

mike

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Guest diesel_jim
Possibly due to its previous life - might have had a headlamp flasher fitted with the blue lights?

That certainly sounds like the most obvious thing.... there ws probably a flasher in there to alternate the headlights whilst the 110 was doing high speed persuit duties... ;)

maybe when the equipment was removed, the lights were just bodged back together with scotch locks or similar. although where the would have put the box is anyones guess... probably in/near the fuse box as they'd need LH and RH headlight feeds separately to connect to the switching box.

if you remove the 2 large cross head screws either side of the fuse panel, you can usually pull it out an inch or 2, so you could look behind and see if there are any stray wires.

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OK, had a really great day, took my smallest to watch Shrek 3 this morning, had a nice lunch, then decided it was time to tackle the main beam problem.

Under the cubby/front matting was a nest of wires.

I put the volt meter on them, and hey presto, found two that gave 12v when the main beam switch was on (ignition&lights as well), even managed to see which one went to which fuse.

Tried to trace the return, but alas they seem to be somewhere else, so pulled the fusebox, and found two bullet connectors, each one going to the main beam fuses !

Thankfully they were correct gender to be put back in correct form, and now have working main beams !!!!!#

Also found some of the nest were live when lights on, so made sure they were properly taped off and labelled. Did some more soundproofing under cubby with 2cm deep mat and even topped up the transfer box...

Takeaway for tea, and the evening on the sofa watching TV and converting realplayer files to MP4 format for the Ipod !

Ahhhh life is good

post-1003-1187894195_thumb.jpgpost-1003-1187894274_thumb.jpg

All in all a good

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