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Just a tad puzzled - thoughts anyone ?


Hybrid_From_Hell
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Bit werid this, would like some other thoughts on it :unsure:

The 2Eales V8" has been running horribly horribly HORRIBLY rich since both the faultly EFI and then the 4 barrel carb shoved on (say 6 MPG anyone :blink: ?)

I guess it may have done 600 miles since the last oil change, and I thought with all the excess fuel being pumped into the engine a Oil and filter change would be a good idea, as the excess fuel can get into the oil and "Bore Wsah"

So whiz round the block :) and dropped both the Oil from the engine - now VVVV HOT, and also removed the oil filter too.

big mistake, most times I get away with this but nooooo not today, new filter, new washer on sump fill with oil both engine and filter and

NO OIL PRESSURE :angry:

My fault on a V8 you should never do both on a hot engine, anyway I removed the Filter plate and saw that the base had some markings on it, nothing major, but I "Figure of 8'd the plate" until cleaned off, then vasolined the pump gears :ph34r: and bolted the plate back on.

Started and pressure was back :)

MUCH more pressure,which has made me think now most of the afternoon.

Prob got another 5-8 psi at tickover 10 psi at revs, surely the petrolly oil can't do this ?...or can it, or can a few thou of groving removed move up the pressure ?...or is it both ?

thoughts ?

running 20/50 replaced with the same oil as I have 50 litres of it !

Nige :blink:

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Cleaning the plate would have some effect as you regained the correct gear to cover clearance which is critical (3 thou ?)……………. Also gasoline contaminated oil is like pi$$ and pumps none too well. Also you may have a very slightly sticky relief valve …… might be time for the dremel and polishing compound …… if you have a tadpole fitted then bin it for an OEM ………….. tadpoles are not all they are cracked up to be in terms of sealing.

I don’t use Vaseline . …. that is moglite territory…………. just prime with a drill, about 10 seconds at gas mK5 does the trick ………… then keep the drill going for a further 30 seconds to prime all the bearings ……………

:)

Ian

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Tried the drill - wouldn't :angry:

Oil did seem thin when it whizzed out.

Don't forget I have not go a "remote Filter"................. it is a good idea anyway ..............

.............plus you get to be able to prime by pouring in a pipe the oil :)

The scores were minimal, .........medium deep scratches at best Not even "Full Circle", .........

..........so maybe its the 'fuel in the oil' ..........more than I knew :o

The valve block has been "Ealed" too.

Tad of extra machining,

plus a ball with a shaft on it, (not the normal V8 bits) and looked all ok.

I then took it all apart and cleaned it anyway - being a tart - whilst off :lol:

Oil pressure now is not "High" more just "higher n better" :) ??

Nige

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plus a ball with a shaft on it, (not the normal V8 bits) and looked all ok.

Nige

Yep ............ thats a tadpole valve................. originally thought to be a way forward ............. but now known not to seat properly under certain circumstances...... if you couldn't prime with a drill, then I would strongly suspect the relief valve or a semi blocked strainer .................however, as I know how you fit your sump I think the strainer is OK.

:)

Ian

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Yep ............ thats a tadpole valve................. originally thought to be a way forward ............. but now known not to seat properly under certain circumstances...... if you couldn't prime with a drill, then I would strongly suspect the relief valve or a semi blocked strainer .................however, as I know how you fit your sump I think the strainer is OK.

:)

Ian

More my nice expensive drill went "BANG F BIG F FLASH" and horrible acrid smell :lol:

And also latex gloves and vasaline is a nice play combo :moglite: on a sunday in a workshop on your own :lol:

Nige

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Hmm. I would guess it's the honing that did it.

I had terrible pressure, 20psi cold, <10psi hot - then i tried a new set of gears & a hone - not significantly better.

Purchased a remote filter kit and bingo 60 psi cold - 30 hot. its the base that did it.

Which brings me onto another question (sorry for hijack, but its on topic-ish)

Does it matter which order the remote filter & cooler are put? Or which way the filter is put? (there is no in/out marked on the filter block)

I just did a re-plumb of the oil system today, beacuse i had to move things around for the onboard air.

Before: The rear base outlet went to cooler - filter - back to front outlet

Now: rear outlet - filter - cooler - back to front

(not sure which is in/out - front/rear)

I seem to get 70psi cold now... 10psi more than before.

Are these pressures ok?

p.s. i do have 20/50 in it, mainly due to the poor hot pressure before. perhaps i should go for a thinner grade now?

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IIRC, ………IN on the filter is to ‘outside holes’ ………and return on the filter is the centre hole……………. This is important cos the filter has a non return valve……….

I’m tired at the mo………..so double check this info, but I think it is correct……….. there is something in the real steel cat that may point you in the right direction ……..

Its available on the net now …………..http://www.real-steel.demon.co.uk/

Nige……………… you need at least a 700 watt drill if the oil pressure is good ;)

:)

Ian

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IIRC, ………IN on the filter is to ‘outside holes’ ………and return on the filter is the centre hole……………. This is important cos the filter has a non return valve……….

I’m tired at the mo………..so double check this info, but I think it is correct……….. there is something in the real steel cat that may point you in the right direction ……..

Its available on the net now …………..http://www.real-steel.demon.co.uk/

Nige……………… you need at least a 700 watt drill if the oil pressure is good ;)

:)

Ian

Yes thanks for that :(

The drill was a 'biggy', well over 700 watt :)

The key word here is................................................... "WAS" :(

Just been in the workshop, the acrid smell is still there :lol:

Nige

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Hmm, I wonder why they (flotec) havent marked a direction on the remote filter body. There are markings on the pump base.

I would imagine that if i did have it backwards & there is a valve - then the motor is going to sound pretty rattly & not last long. But i ran it for 10 mins.

I'm going to get in there & double check later.

Any comments on the oil grade? Is it worth coming down to a 15-40 now the pump is good?

I prime mine with the drill method too. Made the usual tool - brass pipe brazed over slotted bar.

My drill is only a 550W, but does it ok.

You have to persevere sometimes to get it to pick-up, i usually vary the speed a bit.

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The oil retruns to the engine via the central bolt hole.

The mocal sandwich plates IMO are wrong as they take the oil to the cooler first; the filter works best with hot oil.

Maybe I missed something about the vaseline? Not had problem priming that way although I did whizz the pump round too after my rebuild. I have found that using a cordless drill on the low speed gives the best results - you don't want to use a powerful electric one as you can injure yourself due to the kick when the pump primes.

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The oil retruns to the engine via the central bolt hole.

The mocal sandwich plates IMO are wrong as they take the oil to the cooler first; the filter works best with hot oil.

Its better to use the mocal thermostat sandwich plate ………….my oil never goes to the cooler until is reaches 80C ……………….but yes, the cooler is in the correct place…….. before the filter.

I guess the standard RR with the cooler in the rad has the same problem, I don’t believe that has a stat on it :rolleyes:

Hoss: Yes, its worth checking as there is definitely a non return valve in the filter base…………. If you are pumping against the valve your oil pressure will be excellent. The oil pressure has to be really low before the lifters get upset.................. on my swamp damaged engine, just before I removed it, the lifters would only knock on idle vhen the engine was very hot............ and hot idle was zero oil pressure on the gauge and the light was on...........

:)

Ian

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