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Right I have then engine, I just need everything else


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Hi all,

I've just purchased an Isuzu 2.8td to put in my two door rangie replacing a 3.5 carb V8 on an LT95. I'll be purchasing an adapter kit from conversion and precision as I understand these are the best suppliers to use for such things.

The engine swap doesn't phase me too much (famous last words) but what's starting to concern me is getting the spring rates correct on the front suspension, I want to keep the current lift at 2+", but I understand the Isuzu is about 75-100kg's heavier and I also have a milemarker on there too. Any idea's what sort of spring rates to go for? The trucks used mostly off road, but I'd prefer not to get sea sick on land if you know what I mean :)

Ideally I'd like to stick OME springs and shocks around, but the budget is a little limited, so which of the cheaper spring makers are the best of the bunch?

For my next question, any one have experience of Isuzu PAS pumps, I currently have a 2 pump setup (which is rubbish) and wish to just use the existing Isuzu pump to drive winch and steering until I decide what I'm going to do in the long term. Winch just needs to turn for the second, don't care about speed.

and lastly I don't have the glow plug relay, is it OK to just rig this up to a switch and hold it down for 4 seconds before starting or are these cheap items and I might as well just spend the cash and do the job right.

thanks for your help.


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it shouldnt need the glowplugs often - my old rangie used to start (albeit a bit lumpy) at minus 10 without plugs, a push button switch will do the job if you do wanna em up though (30A from memory? :unsure: )

the pas pump is ok but how its gonna fare pushing a winch is not something I can help with. The standard pump interchanges with ZF74's really easily (minor bracket mod required), try and get the Citation twin pulley setup (it had aircon) - the extra belt will help out when the load comes on for the pump.

Police springs seemed ok for the pennies, I used to put rears on the front.

LT77 or R380 suits the motor really well if you can track one down, the conversion kit is the same price (from memory)

SAAB intercooler from a 9000 and some minor pump tweeks will make it pick its skirts up and go like stink.

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Thanks dolly, I must admit it was you and the whole flying spanners team that has started me down the Isuzu road. I've always liked the original PIG and Petal builds, I have something like that in mind, but tray-backed and far more unreliable!!!

Did you get your adaptor kit's from conversion and precision?

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isuzu engine is not that heavy, its lighter than land rover 2.5 diesels i think.

pas pump is stronger than the rover one, my steering became much easier when i fitted mine, not sure if its up to winch driving also though, i have no knowledge in that area. the pump is also tiny, much smaller than the rover one.

glow plugs, do you mean you dont have the relays or you dont have the qos timer? ( a little blue box of magic with lots of wires coming out to control the glow plug timing). you can live without the timer, but not without the relays if you want to use your plugs as there's quite a large current goes through it. i use most of the isuzu set up apart from the timer as i could never find a wiring diagram for the one i have. instead i use another timer which keeps the plugs on for 3 secs. you dont want to keep them on longer than this as they weill burn out. for very fast starting, isuzu and perhaps others use 5v plugs and run them at 12v for 3 secs. after that if using the full system, the voltage will be dropped back to 5v through a dropping resistor for a further 30 seconds after the enigne has fired so its nice and smooth. i dont have the 30 sec afterburn set up yet and so it smokes for the first few seconds after startup.

you might not need the plugs set up as jez said and i ran like this for quite a while, but its nicer to have them on at least for the first 3 second burst. i hope to sort out the second bit at some stage, but it is by no means a necessity, would just be nicer and i am confident that as long as the battery was good it would start in any temperature. it was designed to start the engine in 3 secs in -30 degrees.

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The one good use for petrol is in a coleman stove, it's also the only time I seen anything petrol being efficent, relible and fire first time!! ;)

Petrol for pose, diesel for pro's

..... am I now hated by 50% of the forum now? :unsure:

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I think thats unjustified Jim

I think of you more as an "aerodynamic" ****** :lol::)

eek, I hate being responsible Ruuman :ph34r: Ive always used CPE for mounting 'Suzu lumps, he's a good guy, no BS and if he says it will happen then it does - I'll gladly pay for that kind of service anyday :)

dolly used to get 28-30mpg, pig went down to 24-26mpg and petal runs from 26mpg up or down depending on what its driving on/over/through/under/dragging behind it

seriously - if your budget will stretch to it... go for a 5 speed box, it will make life a lot nicer

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Thanks callum, the data I have says the isuzu weighs in @ 250kg, I think a Rv8 is between 150kg and 175kg, 200/300tdi I think are heavier than 250kg.

Your exactly right I meant the timer, that's interesting about the after-burn, I think I'll try and get hold of that.

Dolly my LT95 has an overdrive so I kind of have a 5speed (or a 16speed as I like to tell my mates, yes it is sad :rolleyes: ), but an R380 will be on the cards one day.

Excuse my ignorance but are CPE the same as conversion and precision? I'd much rather spend my money on a recommendation than a google search.

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CPE/conversion and precision - one and the same :)

you could blag the timer off a Peugeot if you're after one? Durite catalogue lists all the pre and post heat times.. I may even have a circuit diagram for a 'suzu somewhere - I'll have a nose and let you know

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it is true though - i am a fat *********** :rolleyes:


Don't put yourself down like that.

That's what everyone else is here for :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

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get a decent O/E quality landy one, change the clutch release bearing and check everything in the general vicinity while you are there :)

the kit calls for 1mm washers to be used to preload the clutch - FFS get 1mm dont use 1.2 or 1.1 etc, it makes a big difference :)

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Are you happy with the characteristics of your current springs in terms of height & bump response? If so, you need to calculate the spring rate using:


Measure how far the spring is compressed currently and multiply that distance in inches by the spring rate. That gives you the weight on that corner.

Add the additional weight (engine + winch divide by 2), then divide by the original spring compression distance.

This will give you a new rate which will behave about the same.

Then you just need to use one of the spring lookup tables on the web to find one that is close to your requirement.


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Thanks simon, that's a useful formula, unfortunatly my whole suspension setup is cack, the springs are too supple and the shocks don't really seem to do anything. Offroad the articulation is good, on road it's nightmare of vague wallowing.

I think I'll have a good flick through the various mags and compare prices tonight, maybe an OME +2" tdi rangie kit will be about right, have to see if the piggy bank has enough reserves :(

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On Si's recommendation I spoke to Procomp about their springs.

Ended up with some excellent (so far) 210lb/inch springs all round on the Bishtail. They also have the added advantage of being 19" tall free length. Lift is between 2" & 3" at a guess.

On road ride is fine and still plenty of flex off it.

Price is more than LR springs (couldn't get the right weight / length) but less than OME.

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