Crimp connectors

[TheBeastie]

I got myself a decent VWP crimping tool and have been using the right connectors - red for thin and blue for bigger - and the right bit in the crimping tool.

I crimp them till the ratchet releases

I keep getting the wires pull out without really very much tension on them.

I feel I must be doing something wrong but not sure what/ Anyone got any ideas?

Confess soldering is almost impossible but when you do solder at least you get a solid connection.

Thanks for any tips

Malcy

[LandyManLuke]

Firstly, don't always go on the ratchet, quite often i will squeeze a little more. Don't over-do it, the metal can shear and break.

Dependant on how the wire fits in the crimp, i like to strip, twist, fold in half and twist again, so there's plenty of metal to metal contact.

[Les Henson]

I have one that's donkeys years old and it takes a lot of effort to pull the wire out. Either a weak tool or poor quality crimps.

Les.

[Shox Dr]

The tension on the ratchet can be set, it is in effect a torque setting, if you were using these a Certificated build (Aviation etc) they would check to make sure they are set at the correct pressure/torque.

In other words wind it up a bit

[101sean]

The tension on the ratchet can be set, it is in effect a torque setting, if you were using these a Certificated build (Aviation etc) they would check to make sure they are set at the correct pressure/torque.

In other words wind it up a bit

I agree, been using a VWP crimper for ages and only loose connections have been down to me , nearly always in a confined space with only a short stub of wire to play with!

[SteveG]

Have you got the crimp round the right way? Ratchet crimps have two crimp depths, narrow for wire end and wider for cable sleeve end. Crimp round the wrong way and your wire will just pull out. Don't tell ask me how I know , I must have read it somewhere

Cheers

Steve

[A Twig]

Make sre you catch a bit of the insulation in the crimp? Else the wire just breaks or pulls out....

[Guest otchie1]

Firstly, don't always go on the ratchet, quite often i will squeeze a little more. Don't over-do it, the metal can shear and break.

Dependant on how the wire fits in the crimp, i like to strip, twist, fold in half and twist again, so there's plenty of metal to metal contact.

^^^^^^^^^^Do that^^^^^^^^^^^

With me any time it goes wrong it's user error although cheapo terminals make it harder. Usually too few cores to be a goodly fit. It's now a habit boardering on compulsion to double up the bare copper...also makes inserting easier.

After a few thousand you'll get a feel for it.

[headhunter]

Have you got the crimp round the right way? Ratchet crimps have two crimp depths, narrow for wire end and wider for cable sleeve end. Crimp round the wrong way and your wire will just pull out. Don't tell ask me how I know , I must have read it somewhere

Cheers

Steve

To avoid any doubt I crimp both ways, once the right way and then the wrong way.

I also on occasion use the next smaller size on the crimping tool to ensute a tight connection.

John

[FridgeFreezer]

I'd advise against that - squishing it to death can damage the connector beyond it's designed "crimp limit" and is just as likely to result in something coming adrift either through fatigue or being squashed to a pulp. It can also b*gger up your crimpers although I suspect they're not finely calibrated like some of the stuff we have at work.

[HoSS]

2 possiblities -

- your tool is bad (or not adjusted)

- the wire you're using is too small for the crimp.

When you say 'red for small & blue for big' what wire sizes is that?

Red is for 0.3 - 0.9 mm 2

Blue for 1.3 - 2.0 mm 2

[TheBeastie]

Thanks guys

I will double check which way round I am doing them - never imagined there would be a right way and a wrong way!

In terms of thickness I am tending to use red ones for 11amp and 16.5 amp thinwall (.5 and 1 mm 2) and blue ones for 25 amp (2 mm 2)

Crimps and tool came from VWP and so far everything else has been good so suspect it is something I am doing or not doing.

THanks again and hopefully your comments will help sort it out

Malcy

[Mark90]

I've not had any problem with any crimps from VWP coming away even using el cheapo non-ratchet crimping tool, and I've used a few in the 90....

Although lately I've tended to go over to non-insulated crimps as they give a better crimp IMHO, and I now have a proper ratchet crimp tool for these.

[Guest otchie1]

Although lately I've tended to go over to non-insulated crimps as they give a better crimp IMHO, and I now have a proper ratchet crimp tool for these.

and with the rubbery insulation boots they are much more damp resistant.

[HoSS]

and with the rubbery insulation boots they are much more damp resistant.

Not strictly true actually - I proved this on a long term test some years ago for my work.

If you use the pre-insulated (red/blue/yellow) crimps, moisture enters easily but also dries easily.

Using an uninsulated type with heat-shrink applied after, water will still enter from the open end and becomes trapped under the heatshrink in the joint. It corrodes much faster.

This applies to a slightly lesser extent to the silicone boots also.

[Guest otchie1]

Not strictly true actually - I proved this on a long term test some years ago for my work.

If you use the pre-insulated (red/blue/yellow) crimps, moisture enters easily but also dries easily.

Using an uninsulated type with heat-shrink applied after, water will still enter from the open end and becomes trapped under the heatshrink in the joint. It corrodes much faster.

This applies to a slightly lesser extent to the silicone boots also.

ahh, not what I meant. I meant the separate rubber insulation that when the pin & socket are mated, over lap each other to form a water tight seal. The sort you'll find on a motorbike.

I agree with the ingress with just a bit of heat-shrink on one end, no good at all.