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series gearbox mod


oddballrovers
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Hi Folks.

Had an idea today, in the weekend we where out on the last round off the danish Challenge Championship and we did belly out in quite a few places so we lost time winching.

So while washing the damm thing it just stroke me what if one welded up the holes in the transferbox turned it sp that the bottom off the box was raised by 2" new holes drilled and off course there is also all the levers propshafts and so on to take care off.

Not to mention the flor in the passenger side.

Have I over looked something inside the or out side wich prevents me from doing so???

Kind regards

Ole.

PS.Here a link to some pictures from this weekend.

http://picasaweb.google.dk/fn26321402/HighlandChallenge2007

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Only immediate problem I could see would be the drasticly increased propshaft angles..... if you already have a 2" suspension lift then you are going to be in real trouble with your UJs!

Actual technical difficulties of doing what you suggest.... well I don't know too much about the gearboxes on these things..... that's this winter's job on my lightweight ;)

Bowie.

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Oil level?

I think the front prop will point at the bellhousing

It shouldn't get any closer to the bell housing as its rotated (clocked) because the bell housing is more or less a constant radius on that side.

I think it would be difficult but not impossible to keep the transfercase concentric with the gearbox when drilling the new bolt and dowell pin holes, unless you have a suffix D transmission whereby the accurately machined bore at the front of the transfercase spigots over the gearbox rear bearing carrier. Earlier t/cases just have a rough cast hole at the front and rely on the dowell pins to align with the gearbox.

Bill.

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It shouldn't get any closer to the bell housing as its rotated (clocked) because the bell housing is more or less a constant radius on that side.

I think it would be difficult but not impossible to keep the transfercase concentric with the gearbox when drilling the new bolt and dowell pin holes, unless you have a suffix D transmission whereby the accurately machined bore at the front of the transfercase spigots over the gearbox rear bearing carrier. Earlier t/cases just have a rough cast hole at the front and rely on the dowell pins to align with the gearbox.

Bill.

Hi Bill

It is a suff D main mated to an older One Ton transferbox, I could use the rear off mainbox as a toll to make a guide from to make a toll to drill the holes after.

And yes the prop would not foul the bell housing as you say it will turn around the centerline off the main box.

Regards

Ole.

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It may actually be easier to cant the whole engine & trasnmission over ?????????????????

Hi 'rtbarton.

I do not like the idea off tilting the engine, but why not tilt the whole g-box might be worth a thought, just cut and weld a new slot for the starter motor and drill some new holes for the bell housing.

Will go and have a look at it.

Regards

Ole.

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Hi Folks

I have settled for turning the whole gearbox, les complicated, have just been out taking maesures, there is plenty off room for lovering the box opposite the lower end off the transferbox and raising it at lower end.

I will let you know how it all turns out.

It is just so great with this forum.

Thanks again

Ole.

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Is it a SIII? if so there may be an issue with the clutch slave cylinder.

Yes but that one is also solved either by using a series II bell or by welding up that hole and using a slave cylinder from a SAAB I do not know what it is called but it is a cylinder that the input shaft goes through one saves a lot off weight in that way.

But thanks for pointing that one out.

Kind regards

Ole.

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Bill,

sometimes i just dont know whether your mucking about or not :unsure::lol:

No, I was being serious Tonkus. Many series owners would like to get the transfercase up higher and move the 2 crossmembers up out of the way. I lifted the complete engine /transmission up because I didn't want to rework all my adaptor plates, but leaning the complete assembly over seems like a reasonable idea too, as is redrilling and tapping the flywheel housing.

Bill.

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No, I was being serious Tonkus. Many series owners would like to get the transfercase up higher and move the 2 crossmembers up out of the way. I lifted the complete engine /transmission up because I didn't want to rework all my adaptor plates, but leaning the complete assembly over seems like a reasonable idea too, as is redrilling and tapping the flywheel housing.

Bill.

I vote to lift the whole thing, would be so much easier ? (still not easy though!)

i think mine is about three inches higher than standard. no problems with shaft angle (109) but really need to adapt a cable hand brake setup.

also - you'll need to raise the engine mounts the same to ensure the prop shaft angles are kept the same.

any way my 2c

misc011.jpg

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I vote to lift the whole thing, would be so much easier ? (still not easy though!)

i think mine is about three inches higher than standard. no problems with shaft angle (109) but really need to adapt a cable hand brake setup.

also - you'll need to raise the engine mounts the same to ensure the prop shaft angles are kept the same.

any way my 2c

misc011.jpg

Yes Crossy your NP435 gearbox, like my T98, is deep and as low as the bottom of the transfercase so lifting the whole lot is really the only option, and is probably why I did it that way. I really should keep a record of what I have done and the reasons for doing them, rather than relying on my failing memory.

Bill.

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