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oddballrovers
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Hi Folks.

I am not shure if this the right place, if not then it most be moved to series.

I am going to go powerassist on my LWT, but but since I am or it is on a weight saving diet what to use?

What is the lightest/ strongest, it is not a necessity that it is a Rover thing, Toyota or whatever will work is ok, as long as it is light and strong and it fits inside the rails.

For the steering linkage I have seen some in alu but where where they used? RRC or Disco or ?? I am thinking of the part thatis ment to split in case off a frontal hit.

Regards

Ole.

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Ole

We recently stripped a Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 for scrap - the steering box was remarkably smaller than a Rover 4 bolt and no doubt a great deal stronger, either myself or Dan can post some photos should you require them

Regards

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Ole

We recently stripped a Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 for scrap - the steering box was remarkably smaller than a Rover 4 bolt and no doubt a great deal stronger, either myself or Dan can post some photos should you require them

Regards

Hi Lewis.

Yes please pictures and if possible weight, does it sit inside or ooutside the reails?

Chers

Ole.

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Two options I've come across.

First, old Volvos have a steering setup very similar to Series. I used to know someone who had adapted a Volvo power box to replace the original series box - and it worked good.

I doubt it was any stronger than the original though - but the steering was effortless.

Second, and this is probably the strongest and maybe the highest strength to weight ratio.

Someone does a steering ram which replaces the steering rod with a connection to the chassis with built in valving such that the ram assists the normal steering.

This is very similar to the ram-assist becoming popular on challenge trucks. Because the amount of force / torque you have to apply to the valves on the end of the ram is minimal, there is almost no strain on the rest of the steering. The power end of the ram connects directly to one of the wheel swivels, so it's only the swivels and track rod which are subject to the high loadings.

I can't remember who supplies it, but that's what I'd look for!

Si

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I think this is the one your talking about simon

http://www.cp-components.co.uk/product_details.asp?pid=51

it looked like quite a good kit, I seem to remember not liking the location of the pump as it was very low, still this is easily fixed, especially on an ex mod landie as it has additional bolt holes on the block.

Just saw the price.. ouch :)

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Hi Lewis.

Yes please pictures and if possible weight, does it sit inside or ooutside the reails?

Chers

Ole.

I'll take some photo's at the weekend for you

I'm fairly certain the box mounted inside the chassis rails like the Rover box

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Two options I've come across.

First, old Volvos have a steering setup very similar to Series. I used to know someone who had adapted a Volvo power box to replace the original series box - and it worked good.

I doubt it was any stronger than the original though - but the steering was effortless.

Second, and this is probably the strongest and maybe the highest strength to weight ratio.

Someone does a steering ram which replaces the steering rod with a connection to the chassis with built in valving such that the ram assists the normal steering.

This is very similar to the ram-assist becoming popular on challenge trucks. Because the amount of force / torque you have to apply to the valves on the end of the ram is minimal, there is almost no strain on the rest of the steering. The power end of the ram connects directly to one of the wheel swivels, so it's only the swivels and track rod which are subject to the high loadings.

I can't remember who supplies it, but that's what I'd look for!

Si

Hi Si

I tink

Gareth Almond uses something like that, he races ia leafer in NORC.

But what I am after is more like the set up used on coilers from Rover, but not nescesarily made of Rover parts.

The ram thing is nice and simple to fit but there is no weight saving there.

Ole.

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But what I am after is more like the set up used on coilers from Rover, but not nescesarily made of Rover parts.

The ram thing is nice and simple to fit but there is no weight saving there.

While that's true, whatever you do to strengthen the setup is going to add weight. I reckon it would be a close call between a standard series box plus the ram and a standard power box from a coiler!

One final option for you which would be much cheaper at least.

Some cars use a rotary power steering valve in the steering column, which feeds pressure in to a ram built in to the steering rack. You could probably fit one of these in line with the column of a series and use it to directly drive a steering ram connected between the axle and track rod for example.

Si

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  • 2 weeks later...

Toyota LandCruiser 60 and 62 series.Light, strong and everlasting. fits on outside of chassis rail so requires wheels with a tad more offset. I've done 5 conversions to date using a clamp on adaptor plate that eliminates the need to cut, drill or weld to the landy chassis. Currently doing a Stage 1 v8. If I have time on the weekend I'lltryto take pics.

Bill.

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Toyota LandCruiser 60 and 62 series.Light, strong and everlasting. fits on outside of chassis rail so requires wheels with a tad more offset. I've done 5 conversions to date using a clamp on adaptor plate that eliminates the need to cut, drill or weld to the landy chassis. Currently doing a Stage 1 v8. If I have time on the weekend I'lltryto take pics.

Bill.

Hi Bill

That is actually also the ones I have stopped at or perhaps LJ70, I do how ever not like the outboard plasement, it colides with me tyres and shocks, so I had a thought why not use a righthand drive unit placed inbord on a lefthand drive??

Regards

Ole.

Ps I a looking very much forward to see some picys.

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Hi Bill

That is actually also the ones I have stopped at or perhaps LJ70, I do how ever not like the outboard plasement, it colides with me tyres and shocks, so I had a thought why not use a righthand drive unit placed inbord on a lefthand drive??

Regards

Ole.

Ps I a looking very much forward to see some picys.

A left hand drive steering box mounted inboard on the right hand side would work fine but I try to avoid as much surgery to the vehicle chassis as I can.

I don;t know how the steering box would clash with your shocks unless you have a twin setup, but tyre clearance on full left lock at full articulation can be a bit tight, although the very first conversion I did was to a highly articulate Stage 1 V8 with 36'' diameter Q78 super swampers on forward control rims had very few clearance issues. It was a rush job to complete the conversion on the weekend on top of all the other things my wife had planned for me to do, but I did manage to take some photos and transferred them on to my computer, but for some reason I have been unable to move them to a location where I can actually post them. my computer has been hacked and severely corrupted by someone calling themselves Godzilla, andit takes me nearly half an hour to get online. I'll keep trying, maybe I'll ask you to PM me your email address and I may be able to email the photos direct to you.

Bill.

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A left hand drive steering box mounted inboard on the right hand side would work fine but I try to avoid as much surgery to the vehicle chassis as I can.

I don;t know how the steering box would clash with your shocks unless you have a twin setup, but tyre clearance on full left lock at full articulation can be a bit tight, although the very first conversion I did was to a highly articulate Stage 1 V8 with 36'' diameter Q78 super swampers on forward control rims had very few clearance issues. It was a rush job to complete the conversion on the weekend on top of all the other things my wife had planned for me to do, but I did manage to take some photos and transferred them on to my computer, but for some reason I have been unable to move them to a location where I can actually post them. my computer has been hacked and severely corrupted by someone calling themselves Godzilla, andit takes me nearly half an hour to get online. I'll keep trying, maybe I'll ask you to PM me your email address and I may be able to email the photos direct to you.

Bill.

Hi Bill

I am running a set up for shocks as per Gon2Far so the shock is just where the steering box is if it is fitted on the outside.

An other reason for keeping the stuff inside the rails is that it helps on the center off gravity!!!

Re surgery, that is no problem it is a pure bread challenge vehichle thoug still road legal.

I have mailed you my emailadrs.

Looking very mush forwar to the pics.

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I am sorry that I have been unable to post pics. I have tried ImageCave, MSN Users and Yahoo Mail but the uploading of the pics never gets completed. Even emailing with attachements doesn't work. I'll try again in a little while.

Bill.

you can also try ImageShack

thanks!

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Hi Folks

Here are som epics from Bill they have been around the world to get here so be carefull with them :D

Hi Bill

It looks very nice, where are the oil hoses connected to the box?

What is the purpose off the "hump" on the top off the thick plate right in front off the box?

Regards

Ole.

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The steering arm is about 3/4'' longer than the series bottom relay arm.

On a normal series LandRover conversion there is an additional clamping bracket that picks up the front 2 holes of a slightly different shaped steering box mounting plate. This is a Stage 1 V8 so the front 2 holes in the mounting plate are drilled to pick up one of the existing holes in the right hand spring hanger at the bottom, and the radiator right hand support platform,which I box in at the top.

Because Defender steering columns are not plentiful over here, and because most of the 5 conversions I have done have been to series 3's with steering column locks I determined it is easier to use the existing series steering column and box, cut away as can be seen in photo. The aluminium boss that the old sector shaft was supported in was cut off and machined to press fit into the upper steering column shaft bearing bore.The diameter of the sector shaft bushing and oil seal happens to be correct for the bottom (female) half of a RangeRover classic steering column shaft. The series steering column shaft is cut and 2 flats ground onto it so that it plugs in to the RangeRover female shaft.

As mentioned on a previous post it was a rush job last weekend, and I took the photos just before dark, before I had a chance to re attach the pressure and return hoses, but they fit up in a similarway to rangerover/defender etc. A V8 power steering pump, RRC large metal reservoir and hoses are used. the pressure hose from pump to box is a RRC item altered by Pirtek to have a Toyota fitting on one end. The supply and return hoses are under low pressure and are made up using worm drive hoseclamps and suitable size bits of pipe.

I hope this all makes sense.

Bill.

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Hi Bill

What is the purpose off the "hump" on the top off the thick plate right in front off the box?

Regards

Ole.

Actually it doesn't serve any purpose and could be removed. This plate is a copy of a copy of a copy of the first plate I made which originally was going to have a bolt hole in the hump until I realised how messy the inner side of the chassis rail of a Stage 1 is to work with due to the old steering relay mounting bracketry, so I extended the plate further forward to pick up the existing bolt holes in the spring hanger and rad platform, and the hump just sort of stayed there.

Bill.

BTW Ole thanks for uploading the pics. I culd see it was never going to happen with my current virus issues.

Jerry, the steering arm is standard unaltered Toyota. Even without the pump connected, as on my own LandRover,

(See members vehicle forum), the steering is still very manageable. although I did shorten the steering arm on my truck.

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