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Wiring diagram for '95 Japanese 300tdi


Stephen337
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Im having a problem with my Japanese import Disco. The voltage at the fuel cutoff solenoid isnt enough to open it up so I cant start the thing. If do a direct conection from the battery to the solenoid I can start up and it goes fine.

Im unsure as to what is between the ignition and the solenoid. The first thing is my UK 3rd party immobiliser, but the voltage is fine on both sides of it. So Iam stuck!

Im told on a UK spec Disco there would be nothing between the ignition and the solenoid, however Japanese ones have more gubbins in there for reducing the fuel when the brake is pressed. Is this correct? This may include the alarm.

Does anyone know where this lives and if I can get hold of a wiring diagram so I can trace through to sort out my problem.

Any other experience or help would be appreciated also.

Ta

Stephen

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Ta fo the help!

I have had the front of the dash out today looking for the alarm spider and it wasnt there!

I have never had an alarm go off in the car so Im guessing that there isnt one, nor do I have a flashy LED. The immoboliser is 3rd party (added when the thing was reimported back from Japan)

I have had a look in RAVE for the circuit diagram and I can find three versions. Im a bit clueless as to which is relevent.

I have 300tdi with EGR, 300tdi with EDC and 300tdi 'export'

Whats the best way to figure out which I have (I do have an EGR)

The 'export' one tells me to go for the spider behind the console (which I cant find) or anything that looked like connector C2095, neither of which I could find.

Could this spider be hiding anywhere else?

That leaves me with EGR or EDC?

Is there anyway to remove the EGR control module completely?

Thanks

Stephen

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If it has EDC it will not have a throttle cable but a potentiometer on the throttle pedal and a cable that runs from the throttle pedal to near the injection pump and then back towards the gearbox (kickdown cable) the injection pump will also have a large white (round connector) on it. If it is the same as the UK ones the main ECU is in the offside kick panel and the alarm/immobiliser (spider box) is in behind the glove box on the nearside.

look like this:-

car006.jpg

should help locate it:-

car004.jpg

HTH

Pete.

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Hi all,

Thanks for the help!

Im sure I have a EDC (the MAF is on the air intake) and I found a ECU!

I have had the ECU out today:

post-119-1190466588_thumb.jpg

PIN 3 is definately connected to the stop solenoid as per the RAVE wiring diagram.

This has left me stuck. I was going to pop it open and look for dry solders, but I wanted to get some advice on if that is a good idea or not. From looking at it it was not designed to be opened up!

Does anyone have any suggestions for how to diagnose that the EDC is faulty?

Is there anyone around Egham that wants to swap ECU for an hour or so :-)

Failing that can anyone recommend a company that can diagnose for me, or supply a replacement. I guess a new one from LR will be megabucks!

BTW I have black box under the passenger kick plate where the alarm spider should be.

post-119-1190466722_thumb.jpg

Ta for the help.....

Stephen

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PIN 3 is definately connected to the stop solenoid as per the RAVE wiring diagram.

Is there anyone around Egham that wants to swap ECU for an hour or so :-)

Grab a multimeter, stick -ve onto wire coming out of pin 3 and +ve onto pin 16 or 17

switch on and there should be little voltage shown less than 0.5v I would guess, if much more than that then the ECU is prob dodgy.

If ok then there's a problem in the wire between the ECU and the solenoid (which should be an uninterrupted run. I would think the finger is pointing towards the aftermarket immobiliser, so if it's ok the choices are

1. trace the wire and find the fault

2. run a new wire in

if not ok then more choices

1. new or s/h ECU could be spendy there's 1 on Ebay for £150 lol but it's been there months

2. join wire from pin 16 or 17 to wire from pin 3

no.2 will disable the ECU from being able to stop the engine but will still turn off with key as normal

I'm over in Coulsdon with a 300tdi EDC (albeit a UK one) and you a quite welcome to come over and swap & try

HTH

Guy

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Have been really busy and unable to work on this or reply, your help is much appreciated.

I have wired up the stop solenoid as per the non-edc, non-egr wiring diagram and I can start it up and have been driving it around. I have a nice 'bypass the ecu' switch under the dash now. This is direct from connector 216 to the egr, but have left in the old circuit. This is a 12v live based on the key.

However I still get the 'check engine' light on and I think the car has gone into limp home mode as it seems to have less power than before. (Ie will just about do 50 up a slight incline!). How limpy should limp home mode be?

I have been keeping an eye on the 'starting problems thread' and I think we have the same problem!

Tomorrow I will try and remove the old stop solenoid circuit to try to stop the ECU from detecting probelms and going into check engine mode. Im reluctant to pull apart the ECU connector to connect pin3 and 17, I think my fix is pretty much the same thing.

When I have my new circuit broken (ie as with no modification) the check engine light goes off as normal after 5 seconds when the key is turned. Would the ECU be detecting the shortcut and going into limp mode?

Has anyone anyone got any ideas on how I can get my ECU tested?

Can I get the diagnostic software from anywhere and plug the car into my PC? Do those diagnostic machines from Halfords work?

Otherwise I may take Guy H up on your offer....

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The current 'leak' is ok

ok so now the ECU can't 'see' the solenoid and is panicking thinking it can't shut the engine off in an emergency.

unplug the solenoid, stick a meter across it on the Ohms scale and measure the resistance.

you'll need to divide 144 by that figure to get the wattage.

Pop into RS Components/Maplin or such like and buy a resistor as close to that resistance and of that wattage or greater. (or as a temp fix a ?watt 12v bulb)

connect one leg to pin 3 and the other to a GND (pins 18 or 19 will do)

The ECU will now see what it thinks is the stop solenoid and should be happy again :P

& no the Halfrauds diagnostic stuff won't work blackbox solutions do a nice single vehicle piece of kit, but it's £500 :o but even diagnostic kit won't tell you if someone's hacked into the loom somewhere or even if the voltage out of the ECU is low, it would let you switch it on and off at will to test, but you can do that anyway with the ignition switch

offer of ECU swap is still there, I'll be in the front garden tomorrow swapping my rear prop & diff flange so you'd be welcome to pop round PM me if you want to

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  • 1 month later...

Ta for all the help, I was a bit rude and did not say thanks in the first place.

I have not been able to look at it recently. Work has been sending me all over the place and whilst it has been working (albeit in slomo mode) I have not been thinking about it, and I dont want to spend any money on it at the mo.

I tried a couple of things, firstly if the wire from the ECU was not connected at all (and a live from the battery was connected) then no change I seem to remember, still got 'check engine'.

So I looked into a set of resistors that would mimic the solenoid and had no joy, so I can only figure something else must be wrong.

Right now Im thinking of getting the http://www.bsecorp.com/products.php people to check the ECU out. Unless I can find a similar company that can test an ECU closer to home. (Cause it will involve being without the car for a few days whilst its posted around the country)

After Sotal's suggestion that not having the ECU wire connected should be OK (and the fact that I tried it, and it didnt) I figure that there is something a bit more fundamentally wrong at the mo.

Hopefully Im going to get the error codes read from the ECU tomorrow I hope that that can give me a better idea as to whats wrong.

Ta

Stephen

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  • 5 months later...

Hi,

I have been limping around for a good few months now while I fiddle around trying to work out whats going on. Well I finally admitted defeat and had a Harris-Mayes in Rickmansworth look at it.

Within two hours they had diagnosed a blown ECU relay. Now its all back to normal.

I guess its all about experience!

Good blokes!

Stephen

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