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Waxoyl Everywhere.


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Thought I would spray some waxoyl into my newly repaired bulkhead, so splashed out on all the kit and extension hoses.

To cut a long story short, I now have the bl**dy stuff everywhere (about 1/3 of a tin to be precise) except where I wanted it - in and on my land rover.

So, question is to get it to work with the extension probe what mix of white spirit have people found they needed. I have immersed in hot water until it is a clear liquid, but by the time it gets to the end with the nail in it it has gone opaque and gloopy again so just pours out in a stream rather than, how I imagine it should be, in a fine spray.

Without the probe it works fine (not going to say what happened :blush:).

Thanks.

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Thought I would spray some waxoyl into my newly repaired bulkhead, so splashed out on all the kit and extension hoses.

To cut a long story short, I now have the bl**dy stuff everywhere (about 1/3 of a tin to be precise) except where I wanted it - in and on my land rover.

So, question is to get it to work with the extension probe what mix of white spirit have people found they needed. I have immersed in hot water until it is a clear liquid, but by the time it gets to the end with the nail in it it has gone opaque and gloopy again so just pours out in a stream rather than, how I imagine it should be, in a fine spray.

Without the probe it works fine (not going to say what happened :blush:).

Thanks.

Those waxoil pressure cans are cr*p - the stuff all comes out the valve then sets solid in the tube. If you have an air compressor a Schutz/underseal gun is far better ( Machine Mart). Used an old schutz can for the waxoil. Far more controllable, comes with an extension tube for the akward bits. The waxoil is sucked up by venturi action from the can so the valve doesn't get blocked up and the air ejected with it provides a thinner, drip free coating that sticks better.

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Those waxoil pressure cans are cr*p - the stuff all comes out the valve then sets solid in the tube. If you have an air compressor a Schutz/underseal gun is far better ( Machine Mart). Used an old schutz can for the waxoil. Far more controllable, comes with an extension tube for the akward bits. The waxoil is sucked up by venturi action from the can so the valve doesn't get blocked up and the air ejected with it provides a thinner, drip free coating that sticks better.

Yup. Thin with white spirit so its a bit like thin custard, thicker for exterior use.

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Yeah, I did search some of the previous postings regarding this and saw that the preffered route is a compressor system. However, I don't have one, so was hoping there was a way to get this vastly overpriced Waxoyl kit to actually do what it says on the tin!

I have already thinned it to about 15%, so guess I should continue thinning till it works.

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Yeah, I did search some of the previous postings regarding this and saw that the preffered route is a compressor system. However, I don't have one, so was hoping there was a way to get this vastly overpriced Waxoyl kit to actually do what it says on the tin!

I have already thinned it to about 15%, so guess I should continue thinning till it works.

Also keep the fluid warm, I did my inside chassis last week-end with a compressor system and warmed the gloop on a small butane gas stove, stood well back just in case! In my student days I had a 1 cup heater, it was a 240volt a.c. coil just like an electric kettle and fitted inside the cup, boiling water in hey presto! It would have been ideal for the waxoyl can but couldn't find it, under 25 years of junk :rolleyes:

It is also getting close to Autumn so ambient temperatures are going to be lower, waxoyl really is a hot summers day job.

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I waxoyld my 110 using the DIY wax oyl kit, thought it actually worked alright! just did it on a giant tarp, got slightly covered in it, but found WD40 dissolves it!! and then washed with swarfega to remove the wd40.

worked brilliantly..may well write to WD40 and tell them about the new use i found for it!!

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Also keep the fluid warm, I did my inside chassis last week-end with a compressor system and warmed the gloop on a small butane gas stove, stood well back just in case! In my student days I had a 1 cup heater, it was a 240volt a.c. coil just like an electric kettle and fitted inside the cup, boiling water in hey presto! It would have been ideal for the waxoyl can but couldn't find it, under 25 years of junk :rolleyes:

It is also getting close to Autumn so ambient temperatures are going to be lower, waxoyl really is a hot summers day job.

Similarly years and years ago I used to warm Waxoyl and made up a heater consisting of a kettle element fitted inside an old oil can, if you were not careful it would heat the stuff up so it was so hot it would melt the plastic pick up pipe. However even when you do get it heated so it's thinned out to spraying viscosity by the time it's gone up the pipe into the sprayer (or you've poured it into the Shutz or spray gun cannister) and then been blown onto coolish steel most of the heat has left the fluid anyway.

If you thin the Waxoyl down sufficiently making allowances for the cooler atmosphere the stuff will still vaporise and creep around cavities ok. The advantage of a period of warm weather or keeping the vehicle in a warm atmosphere for a few days prior to the job is that the interior and exterior is going to actually have had chance to dry out well.

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