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RRC 1'' Body Lift


stumpy2268
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Having bought a new set of rubber mounts, nuts, bolts, washers etc to replace my perished / rusty examples, I also purchased a length of nylon / moly bar with which to make spacers. The nylon was machined on a lathe to 25mm thick, and suitable holes drilled in each.

Why am I doing this ? Because my tyres are too big for my rear doors, and I do not want to cut them about.

My question to those with experience or knowledge of lifting the body on Classics is, do I need to be modifying anything else before I go up in the world ? - steering linkage for example.

Whilst I realise that I am almost shutting the stable door, I do still have the horse ;)

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I thought of you on Sunday when Mark and I were chatting to a guy from down Horsham way about some bits and pieces...

He's just put a 3" lift on his bob and said that the only thing he had to lengthen/adjust were the brake pipes. Bear in mind that he hadn't road tested it yet... What was very obvious, though, was the complete lack of support under the rear floor - for your, it might be worth investing in a 1"x1" strip of the same stuff to mount on the supporting cross members so that you can put stuff in it without bending the floor.

He said that he undid all the body mounts, jacked up one side in the middle of the car and then did them up. Repeat for other side. He's running a BW transfer box, so wasn't too fussed about movement on the hi-lo selector, but that would be one thing that would concern me.

I'm sure there's another thread on here about it somewhere........I'll see what I can find.

Laters

Adrian

PS - nothing like a bit of 11th hour modification!!!!!! :rolleyes:

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yep

2.5" lift

loosen off the steering arms (essential)

If you buy a good kit it will have a gear stick extension

and brake pipe bracket meaning you don't have to replace the brake hoses.

I jacked up one side at a time.

The instructions in the kits are a must as well as there are loads of mounts

The seat belt have body mounts as well

I would recommend a kit if your doing it for the sack of £250 its worth it

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Thanks for the useful info guys.

I must admit, I would have missed the seatbelt mounts, and wondered why the chassis was still lifting on the jack !!

Will keep you posted with progress, but I will not get into this project until after 7S. I have 'trimmed' the bottom of the rear doors as an interim measure to gain some rear end articulation.

Adrian.

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I did a 3" body lift on my RR project, but i lifted the chassis mounting points, rather than packing them out.

There should be enough slip in the steering shaft for 1", 3" needed some modifications.

You've found the seatbelt ties, there's also the floor supports, two under the front seats and four under the boot (I haven't got those anymore)

Pictures here

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I did a 3" body lift on my RR project, but i lifted the chassis mounting points, rather than packing them out.

There should be enough slip in the steering shaft for 1", 3" needed some modifications.

You've found the seatbelt ties, there's also the floor supports, two under the front seats and four under the boot (I haven't got those anymore)

Pictures here

I'm not that good at welding so I went for the kit and do have seat belts and floor is still connected. :lol:

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Hallo,

i am thinking of putting body lift on my RRC. But i am not finally convinced if 1 or 2". I was trying to contact Bearmach about their 2" lift kit( without success yet). Please do you have any detailed pictures of this bodylift kit?

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Hallo,

i am thinking of putting body lift on my RRC. But i am not finally convinced if 1 or 2". I was trying to contact Bearmach about their 2" lift kit( without success yet). Please do you have any detailed pictures of this bodylift kit?

I guess this ^^ is aimed at you Jules, as my lift will be home grown, or more likely groan, looking at the work involved. :P

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I guess this ^^ is aimed at you Jules, as my lift will be home grown, or more likely groan, looking at the work involved. :P

Not only at Jules...explanation: most of things on my RRC are custom made and i was thinking about putting something "official"( also because of time what can i save with it)... Only body lift kit that i found was from Bearmach. So i wrote them, but they didn't answer. Are they selling or speaking only to big companies or so...? anyway, i want to see how well and clever is that body lift made. If it is worth the many to put in. Still i don't know for how much are they selling it though.

And also i am not still decided if i will go to 1" or to 2". With 2" bodylift will be little bit more easier putting Husky winch in the rear in the future, but it will take big modifications to my front winch bumper and winch mount. With 1" body lift maybe will not be necessary to extend LT230 lever, steering shaft.

When i count all things which need to be customized when body lift is made, maybe i will be at same level as bodylift kit from Bearmach. If yes, then i will buy complete ready set...if the kit will be too expensive i will go your way stumpy2268

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post-312-1190388928_thumb.jpgpost-312-1190388971_thumb.jpg

Hallo,

i am thinking of putting body lift on my RRC. But i am not finally convinced if 1 or 2". I was trying to contact Bearmach about their 2" lift kit( without success yet). Please do you have any detailed pictures of this bodylift kit?

I have a later type filler which didn't need changing

The Bearmach kit is from Aus and very good quality the front end parts of the kit do take my ARB bumper and winch.

Thats the kit I have on mine and I would recommend the ease of fitting.

phone any of the numbers on the back of LRO

post-312-1190389427_thumb.jpg

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I did a 2" lift on mine and as said before the front brake lines will need attention as they are attached to the inner wings and so the mounts go up with the body. Another thing to watch is, if its a manual, the clutch pipe as this is again mounted to the body work.When you do the lift undo all the steering uj bolts and once finish give the steering a good lock to lock several times and bolt it all down. I did mine with stainless steel spacers and had some longer seatbelt ties made. It is still fitted several years on and still no problems.

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I can see that this body lifting is attracting a number of useful questions.

Wolfie, thanks for the perspective.

I had not considered the fuel filler, as my car being a bobtail, has a fuel tank in the boot. Thus all pipes will go up with the body, and the feed / return lines are not fixed into the floor. This is a useful point to consider for those of you reading this thread with the intension of lifting your car in the future.

Teslo, I will take some photos of the finished lifted vehicle when I get around to the project. I can give you details of parts used also.

My recommendation at this point would be to persue Bearmach, as their kit is tried and tested, by Jules at least :)

After this weekend at 7S, I think I may resort to the angle grinder on my rear doors before I kill my rear tyres :angry:

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don't know if it helps, but I believe the bearmach kits are made by http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/

As these are designed for use on road going vehicles in Aus they will have gone through numerous roadworthiness tests and engineers reports to be approved I believe.

Their kit claims 2.5" http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/145.html but looks the same.

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I don't know about ranges, but i did a 2" lift on my brother's disco, and besides all the other things they mentioned, you have to modify the steering link from the bulkhead to the pas.

It is also advisable not to do the modification on standard springs...besides that, after the 2" suspention lift and 2" body lift, the 265's still remained touching the body on articulation so had to use the grinder just the same. Here in Malta there aren't M1 where you can test the Land properly, but i am afraid that if we drive overland , at a relative high speed , and in windy conditions, the Landy will not be that stable....but still have to test it out.... here on Malta the only stretch of road where you can reach the 120km has some 2 speed cameras, couple of booby traps and some police patrol waiting for you at the end of the road. so have to forget that ...

by the way i used a ready kit, bought it from rhino or someone similar..but ther operation is quite straight foward...unless you remove the clutch slave cylinder (there is no need) break the plastic retaing clip at the end of the pivot pin and spenmd a couple of hours trying to fit a new one ...obviously without success...

one other drawback, not calculated...when you come to remove the engine from the engine bay if the need arises, if the garage hasn't got a high enough roof, you end up that the engine at full hoist does not go past the front body panel...so you have either to remove the tyres and lower the body or try to deflate them enought to work out .. funny but happened to me..

good luck.

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one other drawback, not calculated...when you come to remove the engine from the engine bay if the need arises, if the garage hasn't got a high enough roof, you end up that the engine at full hoist does not go past the front body panel...so you have either to remove the tyres and lower the body or try to deflate them enought to work out .. funny but happened to me..

good luck.

Ah good point. I got around this little nugget by drilling out the spot welds in the slam panel and bolting it in like the older non-welded shells used to be.

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Ah good point. I got around this little nugget by drilling out the spot welds in the slam panel and bolting it in like the older non-welded shells used to be.

:o:blush: Did not get to my mind... your way is much more practical... will do the modification next time !!! thanks !!

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