need4speed Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Im aware of people who sell galv bulkheads for series vehicles, but what about defenders? Who sells galv bulkheads for those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Bean Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 I'll be keeping watch on this topic as i would like also. Have you approached the place that sells the series ones and asked about the defender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 don't they last about 20years without galvanising anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisp Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 don't they last about 20years without galvanising anyway? I recently spoke to Gigglepin - they replacebulkheads but have it dipped - total cost 250 plus 250 or so...but I too assume they will last longer than i will keep the lr Boltonbits on ebay also sell new bulkheads - not sure whether they are galvinised or not I am in 2 minds about keeping my off road 90 which is great and also has a brand new 300 tdi and gearbox/transfer box - since the bulkhead will need work/replacing in te next 2 years so i may sell - its not a project i would try = but hope this helps chrisp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shox Dr Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Be very careful, from where you get one, the heat from the Galv process can buckle the bulkhead badly. I saw same at Billing and they looked like they had been run over with a tank. They must use a Jig to stop this from happening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 i am in the process of doing a bulkhead change now, got mine, a new td5 one for £155 plus £100 to get it painted. non galvanised. the last time we did it we took 2 days between 2 of us on a driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Just buy a new bulkhead and fill the cavities with Waxoyl. They always rust from the inside out anyway. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 sorry for slight hijack but who is it that sells galv series ones? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Certainly the rot usually starts from the inside and to prevent this thorough Waxoiling is necessary. When I did mine 7-years ago (brand-new 300TDi bulkhead) I applied the Waxoil before fitting. First I had the bulkhead painted in 2-pack, then I taped up all the holes, turned it upside down and completely filled it with Waxoil (I did this on a nice hot day when the Waxoil could flow freely). Over the next few hours you could see the Waxoil trying to get past the tape as it filled all the internal sections. Eventually I turned it back up the right way and allowed it to drain before fitting it to the vehicle. Small amounts continued to drain out over the next few days but the total amount drained out was only a fraction of that applied. In addition, when fitting the bulkhead I used Waxoil on all the fittings and made sure things like the captive nuts for the door-hinge screws were generously coated. About a year ago I had to remove a pair of door hinges and the nuts, screws, internal sections etc all looked like they had been assembled only the day before, the Waxoil had dried but was still soft & pliable (this is why I prefer it to normal underseal or Smoothright on chassis sections). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Well FWIW I bought a new TD5 one and then got it blasted, galved and stuck it on my truck. Having done it there are minor things would do first next time, like removing the mesh, but I'm now convinced that the bulkhead is at far less risk of distortion from the galv process than the manual handling process which expects everything to be made from 10mm or thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Hi Litch thanks for the useful reply. I was going to use Dinitrol as it can be bought in various levels of viscosity and they have recommended types for internal coating, anybody else done this? Thanks in advance. Best regards, Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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