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90/110 glass fuse holder v blade fuse holder


Mo Murphy
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Is it an easy job to change the older glass fuse box to the later blade type ? Can just the plastic holder be changed or does all the metalware have to be changed too ? Changing the wire terminals should be straight forward I imagine.

Mo

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Is it an easy job to change the older glass fuse box to the later blade type ? Can just the plastic holder be changed or does all the metalware have to be changed too ? Changing the wire terminals should be straight forward I imagine.

Mo

I shall watch this with great interest I have been thinking the same, with Old Sod coming up even the metalwork and complete unit won't be much, but would love to have the pros cons of doing this job

Nige :)

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I have a 1986 110. I couldn't find the tubular glass fuses locally, so I decided to switch to the blade type.

I found a blade holder, and all the fuses I would need down at ye-olde-electronics-supply-house. Total cost was about $30CDN if I remember correctly. Then with a bit of cutting, stripping, and soldering it was installed. Total time was about an hour and a half. It still isn't mounted in a nice way, but it definitely works. I can take some pictures if you like.

If you have done any soldering in the past, this is a no-brainer. I must warn you that a fair amount of the wires are already cut to length, so cutting too much off the end is a bad idea.

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For once can answer this. You need the 2 fuse holder blocks and the metal plate they mount to. I think I paid about 15 quid for the metal plate. If you buy the genuine connectors to go in the block take out a mortgage before you visit the dealers. I found some at work. Only hard bit is changing the wires over 1 at a time. If anyone knows me, they'll know that my wiring skills are about as good as my grasp on the Chinese language. But I managed it in an afternoon. So any one should be able to do it.

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did this several years ago because the glass ones were **** and the source of all my electrical problems. tried celaning and stuff, but its just ahlf measure, much better to change to blade fuse type.

to do so you need 2 of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...photo/fbb8u.jpg , which just about fit in the space vacated by the glass fuse holders, will need filed a bit. then you need a big old bag of crimp female blades and then clip off each and methodically replace, bob's your uncle, and it shouldn't take too long.

result is reliable fuses, and also you get a few extra spaces as a bonus.

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did this several years ago because the glass ones were **** and the source of all my electrical problems. tried celaning and stuff, but its just ahlf measure, much better to change to blade fuse type.

to do so you need 2 of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...photo/fbb8u.jpg , which just about fit in the space vacated by the glass fuse holders, will need filed a bit. then you need a big old bag of crimp female blades and then clip off each and methodically replace, bob's your uncle, and it shouldn't take too long.

result is reliable fuses, and also you get a few extra spaces as a bonus.

I did exactly the same on an early 110 I owned. I prefered to use the pre-insulated heatseal terminals (like these) when re-splicing everything.

The change over of fuse holders cured a couple of the elecy faults I'd been having trouble with tracing for some time.

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Autosparks sell a kit to replace the glass fuse fusebox with the blade fuse version.

I haven't fitted one myself (yet), but I had a look at the kit on their stand at one of the shows and it looked pretty good.

Details here -

Landrover 90/110 20-Way Fusebox ( for Blade Fuses ) Complete with Terminals - LRA111

Paul.

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I have a 1986 110. I couldn't find the tubular glass fuses locally, so I decided to switch to the blade type.

I found a blade holder, and all the fuses I would need down at ye-olde-electronics-supply-house. Total cost was about $30CDN if I remember correctly. Then with a bit of cutting, stripping, and soldering it was installed. Total time was about an hour and a half. It still isn't mounted in a nice way, but it definitely works. I can take some pictures if you like.

If you have done any soldering in the past, this is a no-brainer. I must warn you that a fair amount of the wires are already cut to length, so cutting too much off the end is a bad idea.

You can buy glass fuses here:- http://www.asap-supplies.com/toc.php?frame...25session%25%25 online full range.

Asap supplies appear to stock a wide range of wiring products for the boat sector, many of which are compatible with Land Rover needs.

John

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