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Diff pinion backlash


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Glad you got it fixed and didn’t find any of the bolts rolling around in the housing :rolleyes: …………. I guess the real option is to get it pegged to stop the ‘twisting’ action that does much damage to the R&P ………….. and seems to loosen off the CW bolts.

On the last one I did, I found it very important to really clean and major degrease the threads (bolts and holes - I used neat thinners) before reassembly ……….. that does seem to make the loctite hold together better.



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I used thinners/brake cleaner

then an airline then allowed while before assembly

and cleaned the bolts

loctite270 and torqued them up

Cheers James I'll rtn the bits asap

Anyone know why they come loose and have any suggestions for preventing the same thing happening

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Hi Tony, it doesn't seem to be uncommon on Land Rovers fitted with large mud tyres. I suppose it may be a combination of torque load and possibly a certain vibration frequency at speed on the road. Some Land Rovers suffer from the drive member bolts coming loose too.

I seem to remember that the series 2a landrovers (possibly on other models too) had a lock tab plate with two holes fitted under each pair of crownwheel bolts. Once the bolts were tightened, you knocked the flats of the washer onto the bolt head flats and so locked one bolt to its neighbour via the plate.

These are/were genuine parts and are probably still available. You could use these together with locktite.



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Hi it is worth while adding do not overtighten the crown wheel bolts, common error, once past the elastic limit the bolts stretch and effectively become loose. The tab washer was used on the series vehicles with 3/8 BSF bolts but is 'soft' and under load deforms again ending up with 'loose' bolts when rover went to 3/8 unf they added a 'hardened ' washer. Do not overtighten, use a good thread lock on clean bolts.


Ian Ashcroft

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