mocathe1st Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Hi all, I've just sheared a wheel stud on my 98 XEDI Freelander and was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what I can do to sort it. Is it possible to weld another stud on? or do I need to buy a new hub if so can anyone tell me how much they cost? I'm really annoyed at myself for having sheared the stud and can't seem to find any info on sorting it anywhere on the net. I'll probably have to take it to a garage to sort it but I'm quite keen to find out what the options and costs are before hand. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Wheel studs are generally just pressed in, so a damaged one can be knocked out and a new one pulled in by winding on the nut. It depends if you can get a stud though - possibly a dealer only part unless you can find the same thing from a different vehicle. You can't weld a broken stud back together - it'll snap off at the weld as soon as you tighten it. A broken stud stud is usually an indicator of the nut being overtightened, so the others might be in a weakened state but not yet broken. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deaniew557 Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 Hi Les. I'm new on this site but wondered if you could help me? The thing is. I need to put longer wheel studs into my hubs so that I can put new wheels on. The wheel studs are 13.1mm at the spline and I've drilled the holes in the hub out to 13mm. When I put the studs into the hub and put the wheel on. The studs then turns when I start to tighten it up and then pops out the back of the hub. I've tried this with 3 different hubs now and am at my wits end! The question that I would like to ask you is. Is it ok to have the studs welded onto the hub using a MIG welder? I won't be doing it, I shall have it done properly. What do you think? Thanks for your help Les, Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 The old studs were an interference fit/splined to stop them turning when you try to tighten the nut. The hole should have been slightly smaller to have the same effect. There's nothing wrong with tack welding the back of the stud to keep it in place in my opinion. Lock the stud in it's position with a nut to keep it nice and square and then a couple of blobs of weld to keep it in place/prevent it from turning or dropping out. Make sure that the weld or the back of the stud doesn't catch on any of the braking system. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deaniew557 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Thanks for the advice Les. It's much appreciated. Should I have it MIG welded or gas welded? Thanks again, Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 If you've made the holes too big to hold a stud in I would replace the hub, a bit of weld on the back is not really what you want holding your wheels on. Either that or use a bolt with the correct thread in place of the stud and weld that in place so it can't pull through. Some things are best not mucked about with, wheels & brakes being two of them. I'm sure your insurance co would take an interest if you had an accident and they noticed this alteration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llanigraham Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Hi Les. I'm new on this site but wondered if you could help me? The thing is. I need to put longer wheel studs into my hubs so that I can put new wheels on. The wheel studs are 13.1mm at the spline and I've drilled the holes in the hub out to 13mm. When I put the studs into the hub and put the wheel on. The studs then turns when I start to tighten it up and then pops out the back of the hub. I've tried this with 3 different hubs now and am at my wits end! The question that I would like to ask you is. Is it ok to have the studs welded onto the hub using a MIG welder? I won't be doing it, I shall have it done properly.What do you think? Thanks for your help Les, Dean. Dean, What are you trying to fit, different LR wheels, or some aftermarket types? Are you fitting spacers? The hubs are designed to take a certain stud and any modification could lead to serious and dangerous problems? Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustymark Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Welding on the back of hub may also cause severe vibration. The hub turns with the wheel - you can get your wheels balanced but not your hubs! If it doesn't fit I would go for a new hub rather than take the risk of some sort of failure at speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 When you race freelander there are just some parts you carry. I'm still struggling to work out how your pulling the stud through. Also I use a 4ft bar brace when racing to a setting of FT. how did you manaige to snap one Or was it just a little nip more oh bugger How ever my wife snapped all five when her co-driver didn't check the wheel nuts between stages at the other years south west shoot out and her wheel came off at about 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deaniew557 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hi. I haven't pulled it through the hole. I bought some new wheels and couldn't get them on because the studs were too short. I bought some longer studs, but when I went to put them on. They were too wide for the holes in the hub. I've drilled the holes out in the hub, and now they are very slighty too big. So I need a way of stopping the studs from spinning in the hole so that I can tighten my wheel nuts up. I think that I've found a way now?! I'm going to centre punch 2mm to 3mm from the hole all the way round the hole, therefore collapsing the hole just enough to pinch the studs! I'm also going to use some metal glue to hold them in place aswell. Thanks for your help and advice, Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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