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3.9 EFi problem


Les Henson
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The engine turns on the key and sounds like it's trying to start, but won't. With the coil main lead close to an earth point and the ignition switched on so that just the dashboard lights are on, the coil fires repeatedly. The next click of the key and it stops. Has anyone got an idea what the problem might be please?

Les.

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The engine turns on the key and sounds like it's trying to start, but won't. With the coil main lead close to an earth point and the ignition switched on so that just the dashboard lights are on, the coil fires repeatedly. The next click of the key and it stops. Has anyone got an idea what the problem might be please?

Les.

Dear Gawd - where to start

The fact you have a "Crack" from the coil means something but not much

It could be Plugs, Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm (yes even with a spark), Fuel pump fuel pressure, AFM, Leads, injectors, PRV etc etc etc

The only way is to start with the diagnostic Manual I shoved in the tech forum, and work through logically and slowly through each test.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16476

Sorry, but thats the joy of V8s

Nige :(

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Don't discount the coil either.... Orange spent most of thursday night and friday morning before 7S assuming that cos he had a spark, the coil was OK, but it still wouldn't start. The coil had pretty much died overnight so the car went from running fine to not running at all. After tearing the car apart and spending about 10 hours trying to find the fault, he swapped out the coil, and low and behold it roared into life... just about in time for us to go to 7S for a weekends damp offroading...

My 200 TDI never has that sort of problem... :P :P

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If ign key position is;

0-off

1-aux

2-run

3-start,

You are saying that in pos 2 the coil is generating sparks? In pos 3, engine turns and coils stops sparking?

If I have followed your post correctly then either ignition module or ign supply is stopping or starting current through the coil.

Disconnect dizzy to eliminate that.

Check voltage to coil pos, watch for any variations that coincide with the coil firing.

Possibilities are ignition switch, immobiliser, fuses in the supply line and ignition module.

Ignition module is favourite.

jw

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Don't discount the coil either.... Orange spent most of thursday night and friday morning before 7S assuming that cos he had a spark, the coil was OK, but it still wouldn't start. The coil had pretty much died overnight so the car went from running fine to not running at all. After tearing the car apart and spending about 10 hours trying to find the fault, he swapped out the coil, and low and behold it roared into life... just about in time for us to go to 7S for a weekends damp offroading...

My 200 TDI never has that sort of problem... :P :P

Finally, I find a thread that can add something constructive to and lo and behold, my older brother beats me to it!!!! Life's a b#tch!!!

Anyway, Mark - I still went through all the water that you did over the weekend and it didn't even bat an eyelid!! Next time, yours is going in the middle of the pond - how d'ya like them bananas!

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My advice, coming from FL and home of the 5' deep wash.... assuming your coil is good and is replaced, here is a $13 fix that might not look pretty but it WORKS:

1. take the Dist. cap off, spray wire-dryer under where the rotor is, on the rotor, and inside the cap. look for cracks and burnt leads inside the cap. $3.

2. Get the $3 tube of di-electric grease.

3. $7 get the BIG tube of blue auto RTV. remove each plug wire, one at a time and grease the connector , then RTV the wire to the plug and also to the cap. Same for the coil lead. now move to the coil electrical wires -- remove and RTV the HECK out of them. I RTV'd EVERY wire I could find on the engine.

4. RTV the cap onto the distributor. be careful. ensure it is solid on there and pressed properly down.

IT RUNS BETTER THAN A NEW TUNEUP. IT IDLES SMOOTHLY.

ensure the vacuum breather tubes are NOT cracked. mine sucked water into the engine and it FOGGED the inside of the distributor and then did what you described after I shut it off.

Sometimes the vacuum line for the cruise control is cracked and can suck water in there too. on US models the unit is on the front left side. not sure about the RHD type. If you cruise does not work you could have vacuum leaking and also sucking in water, dirt, etc... into your engine. both of my RRC's leaked and had cracked vacuum hoses.

just some cheap thoughts to check. good luck...

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Les, a further thought from the bath tonight, that is, assuming I read your post correctly.

To eliminate the ign. switch, fuses and immobiliser, remove the white? battery supply wire from the coil pos and hardwire a temporary feed direct from the battery. If that stops the coil sparking then I'm afraid it's probably down to a poor connection somewhere along the battery supply line.

What is probably happening is when the ignition is turned on the current flow heats up a bad connection and the current flow stops. How the ignition module behaves under those conditions I'm not sure. A hardwire battery feed would easily eliminate that possibility.

Probably also a good idea to identify all the wires attached to the coil terminals and ensure they should be there.

jw

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