beeman0 Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Hi there, as a brand new user of this forum I hope you will forgive me if this query has already been answered elsewhere! My current pride and joy is an 88" series 11a 2 1/4 petrol which I returned to the road last year after a fairly major rebuild. When one the front springs broke last April I figured it would be worth the expense of fitting parabolics so invested in a set of bearmachs. Two leaf fronts with two and a helper spring on the back. This was coupled with procomp ES 9000 shocks all round. Although it had not been my intention this has given me a 2" lift and although the ride is now superb I suffer from what I believe is the prop shaft yokes binding when the vehicle is unladen giving a fearsome grating noise when on overrun. The only solution so far has been to carry half a dozen 6" concrete blocks in the back, but this obviously reduces load capacity makes the vehicle sluggish and burns even more fuel . One friend has suggested fitting an early RRC prop shaft as they had a wider yoke angle to allow for the extra articulation, but I'm not sure about the practicalities of this. Can anyone advise me please? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossy Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi there,as a brand new user of this forum I hope you will forgive me if this query has already been answered elsewhere! My current pride and joy is an 88" series 11a 2 1/4 petrol which I returned to the road last year after a fairly major rebuild. When one the front springs broke last April I figured it would be worth the expense of fitting parabolics so invested in a set of bearmachs. Two leaf fronts with two and a helper spring on the back. This was coupled with procomp ES 9000 shocks all round. Although it had not been my intention this has given me a 2" lift and although the ride is now superb I suffer from what I believe is the prop shaft yokes binding when the vehicle is unladen giving a fearsome grating noise when on overrun. The only solution so far has been to carry half a dozen 6" concrete blocks in the back, but this obviously reduces load capacity makes the vehicle sluggish and burns even more fuel . One friend has suggested fitting an early RRC prop shaft as they had a wider yoke angle to allow for the extra articulation, but I'm not sure about the practicalities of this. Can anyone advise me please? Mark have a look at the yokes - you'll soon see if the have been binding. although it sounds to me like a diff pinion bearing problem. I had similar noises on overrun - was the preload (pinion nut had backed off). doubt 2" would not be enough to cause prop problems ?? If the concrete blocks are working, pfft just do that, so much easier than mucking around with nuts and bolts, getting dirty and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeman0 Posted October 2, 2007 Author Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi Crossy, thanks for the quick reply! I thought the whole point of Land Rovers was messing about with nuts and bolts and getting dirty! Seriously though, the original rear axle made the same grating noise and eventully the diff blew up in spectacular style punching through the axle casing! I completely rebuilt another but the same noise is there leading me to believe it may be the prop(s). I'm certain it's not gearbox as I had that professionally overhauled (at great expense) before refitting. The fact that the vehicle is fine when laden also leads me to think 'propshaft angle'. Regards, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Take the rear prop off, lose the concrete blocks, stick it in 4wd and go for a drive. If the noise has gone away you know where youre problem is! My SWB runs parabolics, with 1 tonne extended shackles (so has at least a 2" lift) and my rear prop is 4" shorter than stock so my rear prop angle is pretty silly. My rear prop is just a shortened standard series one, and I have no problems with the yokes binding. The front is a different story however. Range rover props do have higher angle u/j's, and you can "adjust" them with a grinder for even more movement. I used a 4 speed rangie front one to make my front prop. However be aware that no coil sprung prop will be the right length for the back of your series, so whatever you fit will have to be shortened to suit. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Mark I had exactly the same problem as you when I fitted parabolics to my Series III. I simply swapped the rear propshaft for a new one and problem solved. The problem was that the prop was now extended further than usual due to the lift given by the parabolic springs. This meant it was running further down the splines which were probably more worn than the splines at normal height (IYSWIM). HTH Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeman0 Posted October 2, 2007 Author Share Posted October 2, 2007 Thanks chaps. That was really helpful advice. I don't know why I didn't think about taking the prop off myself. The Landy runs like a dream now no transmittion noises at all (well hardly!) although it doesn't handle very well as a front wheel drive. Even the clunk on releasing the clutch has gone and I had thought that was an inherent Land Rover noise. I will now try to source a Rangie shaft and cut it to suit. Will let you know how I get on. Regards, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.