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Cam belt


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Just checking if I need to get my cam belt done.

The car had full service history up to 86,000 miles when service 17 was done in Feb 2004

The disco has now done 104,000 miles and obviously it's 3 and a half years since the last recorded service.

Is it something like every 72,000 miles or 5 years? it had a service at 73000 miles but that was may 2002 so that would breach the 5 years.

How difficult is the cam belt to do on these? Is it a possible DIY job or is it a job for a local independent? How long should it take? Does much have to come off? What parts do you need (any gaskets etc)


oh final question is the engine an interference engine or not?

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We do ours at around 60k Kilometers. And we change the pulleys as well cos the bearings don't last too well. And if the crank pinion is a LR genuine part with the spot-welded flange we throw it away and fit the Bearmach forged pulley.

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I buy the kit from Bearmach - the belt is a Dayco item, and the crank sprocket is better than any others. If you plan to do the crank oil seal and timing cover dust seal, then these are extra, buy only abot £4. I pay £67 for the kit, so another tenner or so for non-trade customers. It is an interference engine, so make sure you follow the instructions carefully.


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Thanks for the Help Les, it probably won't be for a couple of weeks but I like to gather all the info first, get all the parts needed etc. Then I'll spend the weekend doing it and as many other jobs as can be done at the same time,

my plan is to replace the following:

timing belt kit,

crank oil seal and timing cover dust seal

fan belt

air con belt

air con adjuster arm and pulley (the 1/2 socket bit is broken on the arm and there is a chip in the pulley)

air filter

fuel filter

oil filter and oil

flush radiator and replace coolant

Anything else that might as well be done whilst I'm in there?

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Check the belt tensioner for play and replace the bearing if necessary. Water pump too. Look for a leaking 'P' gasket too - you would need to remove the alloy housing that the alt/pas pump are fitted to. The dipstick tube sometimes fractures where it exits the block and also where it's secured near the top. The metal heater hose brackets that holds it to the manifolds sometimes suffer from vibration and break.


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It seems that Bearmach have a thing against the 300tdi crank seal and o-ring. Neither the cambelt kit or the 'bottom set' of gaskets has that seal and the o-ring. Though the bottom set does have the front timing case seal, which we only change if the case has the original metal item.

Ok, you don't always have to change the oil seal when doing the cambelt, but mostly it is a good idea. But when overhauling an engine and using the bottom gasket set, you will certainly need the seal and ring.

I was caught out on this the first time I did a cambelt, and of course all the spares shops were shut, so I had to put it all back together and redo all the work one week later. grrrrrrr.....

and you might like this picture. Some @@shole used loctite on the pulley. We use copper grease to make it easier next time. Luckily we managed to get what was left of the pulley off without damaging the crank or the timing case.


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