landybear Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Question 1. What options do i have to increase articulation without increasing ride height?? Its just i tow a boat and trailer so cant go too high even with a dixon bate, but also want better articulation when P & Ping. is this possible?? Question 2. I have a water leak from somewhere which is not coming from anywhere conventional!! Its dripping onto the top of the sump. Water pump is fine and gasket is fine but the auxillary bracket gasket looks like it is where its coming from?? can this happen?? I have checked everything else all pipe work is pretty new. Cheers for your help in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 The coolant leak sounds like the P gasket. Have a look at THIS it may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybear Posted October 4, 2007 Author Share Posted October 4, 2007 Excellent thanks for that thats the gasket that has failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Question 1. What options do i have to increase articulation without increasing ride height?? Its just i tow a boat and trailer so cant go too high even with a dixon bate, but also want better articulation when P & Ping. is this possible?? easiest and cheapest way of getting more flex but retaining standard ride height is to leave your existing springs on and just fit some longer shocks and disclocation cones. +2" shocks will fit on the standard shock mounts without bottoming out on compression, but will allow a further 2" of droop over standard. Disclocation cones are required to stop the standard springs popping out of the spring mounts and falling off! You may need some longer brakes pipes too, dont want any pipes stretched on full droop. the above will give you standard ride height, standard road handling (probably better if you buy decent gas shocks) and a real increase in flex all round. Bet you it will cost less than £200 for the whole lot. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Have a look at llama 4x4 for their challenge kit- £350 and your motor will still be stable on road same height and ultra flexy off it www.llama4x4.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Question 1. What options do i have to increase articulation without increasing ride height?? Its just i tow a boat and trailer so cant go too high even with a dixon bate, but also want better articulation when P & Ping. is this possible?? You have lots of choice, as increasing your height doesn't give you increased articulation, in fact if you don't increase length of shocks a lift will decrease articulation. With standard height, the problem you have with fitting longer shocks is that on upward travel you may hit the full travel of the shock before full travel of the axle. This will degrade the shock and it will eventually fail. To get over this you want to fit higher shock mounts, typically +2" and these are readily available through the likes of Gwyn Lewis (challenge mounts) and QT (Weekender kit). Both of these kits also relocate the rear shock mounts for a better operating angle. Combine these sort of kits with +4" and +5" (Llama4x4 do a good deal on Gwyn Lewis mounts and Rough Country shocks) and you'll be getting good articulation. You now have to consider a few issue that arise. Your springs will now dislocate and can pop out of their mounts. You now need to look at securing the springs at one end and fitting a device that helps them to relocate. There are numerous options available and kits like the Gwyn Lewis ones can be ordered complete with relocators. You standard brake lines are now likely to be meeting their maximum travel and will need to be replaced with longer ones. Most people replace with braided hoses. Lastly the limiting factor, expecially on the rear will be the radius arms. You have get a couple of more inches of travel with rear cranked radius arms. The adjusted angle helps the compression angles on the radius arms bushes allowing it to travel downwards more. The design of the front radius arms doesn't allow much extra travel and so it's debatable whether cranked front radius arms are worth it. For extra travel you need to look at altering the front suspension altogether and consider 3 or 2-Link set ups. These are for serious oof road use. Having said all of this, I would personally recommend you putting on some longer shocks, say +2" with your standard mounts and see how you get on. You need some rear spring locators, like Devon 4x4 ones and rear spring reatiners, but the fronts will be ok. Your standard brake lines should be ok at this length. A cost effective set of shocks like Rough Country or Pro-Comp are a good start. Then if you want more, sell the shocks and start modding as above. By the way, be aware that longer shocks often have less damping and may cause issues when towing at speed. If you find this is the case look at fitting stiffer springs to compensate for this. Cheers Steve After typing my long winded post I see that Nicks90 already replied suggesting 2" shocks set-up, as he said this is a good and cost effective starting point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybear Posted October 4, 2007 Author Share Posted October 4, 2007 Cheers guys, thats what i thought i could do but wasnt sure. Do many people do that or do they normally increase height of the sprngs aswell. So SteveG when on motorway with the boat it could be a bit unstable?? If so fit some HD springs of standrad height. Is this correct?? Cheers guys - you sure do know your stuff!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 So SteveG when on motorway with the boat it could be a bit unstable?? If so fit some HD springs of standrad height. Is this correct?? You'll really need to try it out to see for yourself. Most +2" shocks are ok, especially if you go for something like DeCarbon as they are very well damped for on road use. However, the longer the shock the less damping effect they have and some of the +4" and +5 shocks have a lot less damping than standard shocks. The stiffer springs will help with dive and anti-dive under braking and acceleration and body roll on bends. Yes standard height HD springs will be stiffer. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 i woudl go with Steves suggestions for the shocks/brake pipes etc but personally would stick with stock radius arms (with good flexible bushes) you can upgrade arms later and keep your std springs to maintain current height and fit X-Springs no need for dislocation for extra Flex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybear Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Guys, i am a little confused, i understand that 2" longer shocks will give me more droop and when they are on upward travel they will reach full travel before axle travel, i get that much. What about added 2" mounts surely this will reduce the droop?? is this me stupid?? Sorry for the newbie questions.!! One other thing is, are straps best for retaining the springs or should i use the solid type that secures it to the axle?? Many thanks Bare with me am just trying to grasp it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_LLAMA4x4 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Guys, i am a little confused, i understand that 2" longer shocks will give me more droop and when they are on upward travel they will reach full travel before axle travel, i get that much. What about added 2" mounts surely this will reduce the droop?? is this me stupid?? Sorry for the newbie questions.!! One other thing is, are straps best for retaining the springs or should i use the solid type that secures it to the axle??Many thanks Bare with me am just trying to grasp it!! Give me a call on 01938.850382 or PM me with a contact number for yourself and I will phone you... Whilst I will happily sell you whatevr you ask for ( ) I would prefer to help you select what will be right for you and then see if I can supply it then rather than letting you be another victim of the adverts in the magazines offering great prices for poorle matched up parts... The choice is fairly simple really but each way will lead to other things aswell. 1/ +2" shocks all round... will lead to hoses on the front and xsprings / relocation cones on the rear. 2/ Longer shocks ( 11" travel / +5" ) shocks. Leads to new hoses all round, new shock mounts all round, xspring or relocation on the rear and ideally cranked rear radius arms. Eother way you could mix and match to suit your needs or budget eg. 11" on rear and +2" on front... Give me ashout if you want me to explain further. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybear Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Excellent David thanks for that, will give you a call before the weekend hopefully depending on how much work i have. At least it makes my options clear. There is so much stuff out their its a mine field if your new to it all!! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goaty Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 If your after lower shock mounts i have a full set avliable, all brand new. Fronts are tubular galvanised and the rears are from scopion racing. let me know if you are interested. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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