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V8 thirsty...


CR88
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Hi,

V8 engine drinks water but, no leak found...

  • water doesn't enter in the cylinders or it's found on the sump;
  • no apparent leaks shown in floor;
  • temperature ok;
  • water level in radiator when engine is working goes up and down.

Any idea????

The engine runs on LPG.

Regards,

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You really need to get a pressure test and a test for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant (head gasket/liner issues) to eliminate possible sources.

Have you tried fillling it & then letting it run up to temp & pressure whilst watching the engine for leaks? Boring I know, but often works.

Any hose joint can leak. How much water are we actually talking about?

The radiator/overflow tank cap can be a culprit & is often overlooked but they do deteriorate with age.

Water pumps are another, when the seal wears water can drip out of the nose.

Rusted through core plugs can be another.

Leaky rads can start off very slight & the water will boil off before it drips.

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Any hose joint can leak. How much water are we actually talking about?

1.5 l each 100 km

The radiator/overflow tank cap can be a culprit & is often overlooked but they do deteriorate with age.

both new

Rusted through core plugs can be another.

new as well swapped two years ago

the tests will be executed

thanks ;)

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Hi,

V8 engine drinks water but, no leak found...

  • water doesn't enter in the cylinders or it's found on the sump;
  • no apparent leaks shown in floor;
  • temperature ok;
  • water level in radiator when engine is working goes up and down.

Any idea????

The engine runs on LPG.

Regards,

Had the same problem on one Range Rover I had for years. The temp did rise frequently more so towards the end of its life but I recon the block had gone pourous. I could never find where it went either

I have a nice cheep solution for the pourous block which has proved to work on my CSK for the last 10K. Let me know if I can help

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Sounds like the porous/ slipped liner/ cracked block syndrome.

You could try a water borne ceramic sealer (such as K seal) but be very wary and follow the instructions implicitly. Often this fails to work……… and when it does the fix is often not permanent.

The only real answer is to rebuild the engine and have the block Top Hat linered ……… this is proven to be a permanent fix.

:)

Ian

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Sounds like the porous/ slipped liner/ cracked block syndrome.

You could try a water borne ceramic sealer (such as K seal) but be very wary and follow the instructions implicitly. Often this fails to work……… and when it does the fix is often not permanent.

The only real answer is to rebuild the engine and have the block Top Hat linered ……… this is proven to be a permanent fix.

:)

Ian

BBC

The ceramic sealer that I used on the CSK was 5 years and 10,000 miles ago and came recommended from a very respective source. The foirst time I used it it did not work properly but it can be used as many times as necessary to ensure a seal. I would swear by it after the result I had but I would recommend a coolant flush before use to get all the cr** out.

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my last block went porous with almost exactly the same symptons- ie none- just water loss

i eventually got so Mildly miffed off with filling the water bottle all the time that i rebuilt it with a top hat block.

Tell tale signs on strip down were the "steam cleaned" piston heads on 8 and 3.

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my last block went porous with almost exactly the same symptons- ie none- just water loss

i eventually got so Mildly miffed off with filling the water bottle all the time that i rebuilt it with a top hat block.

Tell tale signs on strip down were the "steam cleaned" piston heads on 8 and 3.

the block went porous?

what was the solution to this?

new block???

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A new block is one way ..............but that will has the potential to eventually exhibit the same problems........................... the other is to have the existing liners machined out and replaced with top hat liners .............

The issue is that the factory liner is very thin and the amount of 'meat' in the water jacket casing behind the liners is marginal. When the engine is allowed to develop local heat spots (usually as a result of a weak mixture ........... like prolonged motorway cruising at light throttle) the block develops tiny cracks and pin holes behind the liner. As the top of the liner sits in the compression zone (i.e. the 'fire ring' is outside of the liner periphery) hot compression gases are forced between the liner and the block ....... thus entering the cooling system. This causes the system to pressurize beyond its design pressures on each compression stroke, however, on the non compression strokes the water pressure is released back into the cylinder as a small amount of coolant that is burnt (produces steam) on the next firing stroke. Top hap liners are much thicker have their block to liner seal outside of the 'fire ring' or compression area ............ thus it is a known permanent fix .................. but not cheap.

:)

Ian

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