nas90 Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 My spare set of Mach V's are being cleaned and blasted prior to a new paint job. Since me and Diesel Dave had issues with ripped-off valves at the Belgium National any ideas for welded valve protectors? Paul uses steel tube welded over the hole in the rim for the valve on Black Piggie, others I have seen use steel rod formed into a 'U' shape, any ideas / pictures / preferences / don't do this way? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Got pretty much all options covered already I reckon. Personally I like the tube idea as it gives all round protection. Also might be worth considering tubeless valves from a Quad/ATV, they will fit a std size rim hole but are much shorter so whatever you use to protect them can be made smaller and much less likely to get tangled up in the first place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I got some stubby valves from flea bay after losing a valve on an event Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 25mm Tube , Just enough height so you can remove the dust cap , I did mine when I first got the Mach 5 rims and have never lost a tyre due to valve damage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I tried a steel tube, but if you run inner tubes (like I do), it becomes very hard to inflate the wheel from 0, since you cant grab hold of the valve to inflate it. I now run the 'u' shaped loops, they work mint. Daan My spare set of Mach V's are being cleaned and blasted prior to a new paint job.Since me and Diesel Dave had issues with ripped-off valves at the Belgium National any ideas for welded valve protectors? Paul uses steel tube welded over the hole in the rim for the valve on Black Piggie, others I have seen use steel rod formed into a 'U' shape, any ideas / pictures / preferences / don't do this way? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I tried a steel tube, but if you run inner tubes (like I do), it becomes very hard to inflate the wheel from 0, since you cant grab hold of the valve to inflate it.I now run the 'u' shaped loops, they work mint. Daan Piccie Possibly Please nice Mr ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 later, nige, later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 I'm running stubby valves (on alloys!) and no problems yet. I've previously torn a long valve while laning in Sussex but I've never had any rim protection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 theres those button valves the custom boys use? Ive just got a mild steel guard that bolts to the wheel works though B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Got pretty much all options covered already I reckon. Personally I like the tube idea as it gives all round protection. Also might be worth considering tubeless valves from a Quad/ATV, they will fit a std size rim hole but are much shorter so whatever you use to protect them can be made smaller and much less likely to get tangled up in the first place! Thanks Steve, thats a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 25mm Tube , Just enough height so you can remove the dust cap , I did mine when I first got the Mach 5 rims and have never lost a tyre due to valve damage . Ø25 bore or O/D? 1.5mm to 2mm wall sufficient? nas90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Thanks for your replies, some pictures would be good now.......................................please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 On the Alloys on my Golf, I used Flush fit valves - This left the valve completely flush to the rim. You then had a special tube that fitted in when you removed the cap. Not sure if they do them to fit steel wheels, but they would certainly avoid the valve getting ripped out: flush fit valves on eBlag just a thought Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 some pictures would be good now Alternatively, had you considered getting your local friendly Laser Cutter to burn out some beadlock rings - the valves would be well protected then. Just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 He is our local friendly(ish) laser cutter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 He is our local friendly(ish) laser cutter.... Beat me to that one Oh, BTW <hushed voice> we cut very accurately, burning is for the oxy acetylene boys <end of hushed voice> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 ....beadlock rings - the valves would be well protected then. doesnt always work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 He is our local friendly(ish) laser cutter.... Duh, I know Oh, BTW <hushed voice> we cut very accurately, burning is for the oxy acetylene boys <end of hushed voice> Sorry doesnt always work The car in your picture - was the tyre failure directly related to the valves being ripped out? I only suggested the rings because on the few vehicles I have seen with weld on beadlocks the valve was protected well by the two large rings of steel between it and the rocks/tree's etc On my wheels the valve is so well protected that its a PITFA to get to with the inflater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Judging by the fact the CTIS lines had been ripped out of their armour on 3 out of 4 wheels and were flailing about the place - its not unusual, Ive seen it happen to other cars, but in this specific case I was kinda busy doing other stuff to ask specifics get a log/branch big thing wedged in the wheel bell and spin up your tyres - with enough perseverance you can make anything break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 get a log/branch big thing wedged in the wheel bell and spin up your tyres - with enough perseverance you can make anything break. Like brake callipers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosZuki Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Personally i wouldnt be so keen on the flush fit valves for alloys, the thread on them is quite fine and they are not made of the bestest materials. we had at least one set returned to us from my old wheel trading days where the thread had stripped. out in combat i think you may have issues with keeping the threads clean enough for them to work properly. They are a pain in the ass when new never mind post event! my last set of rims had tube but wide neough to get pointy pliers in, maybe carry a valve puller ala tyre fitters use? just my tuppence tak it or leave it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 mine: Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Thanks Daan, simple and effective, even better using the shorter ATV valves Keep em' coming! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Thanks Daan, simple and effective, even better using the shorter ATV valvesKeep em' coming! Dave I wouldn't bother with tubeless if you want my opinion; judging from the fact you need valve protectors, you do take offroading seriously. That in my mind automaticaly means either innertubes or beadlocks. I am very much in favour of inner tubes, it allows you to air down to around 10-12 psi which is ample in most situations. It also allows you to bend your rims like buggery and still keep air in the tyres. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 I ran with tubes for a while and although it stopped me pushing tyre's off rims I then had trouble with tyre's turning on rims (at 10-15psi) and ripping the valves off that way. Also means you have to remove them and clean them regularly otherwise dirt between tyre and tube rubs them through. I then installed bead locks with the tube's and it made the stripping to clean a PITA and if I aired them down less that 10 PSI (depending what tyre's your running) you risk pinching the tube. So Ive gone tubeless with beadlocks and IMHO its the way to go. I carry a string type repair kit incase of puncture which is very quick and effective and is another advantage of tubeless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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