garage doors

[jameslwt]

It is (sort of!) to do with landrovers!

Anyone got any hot tips on building garge doors - barn door type? Going to remove up and over door on garage/workshop as cannot get truck in due to height - but there's an extra foot or so above it to play with. Then build new wooden doors. But they are going to be quite wide - opening is just over 11 ft wide, and about 7 1/2 foot high.

So has anyone got any hot tips/done this before - acutely aware that I will probably need something quite substantial, and some chunky hinges!

Cheers

James

[FridgeFreezer]

I have the same problem, I've decided to go for sliding doors when I build mine because:

- They don't need to swing out, a problem for me as there's nowhere for them to swing

- They are easier (IMHO) to support & keep straight, the load is spread along the runners and supporting wheels at the bottom rather than needing a hoofing great hinge & post each side.

- There were some travelling ladders & runners in the bin at work I have "recycled" for parts

[Astro_Al]

James I have doors as you describe.

(You've been there to pick up that Mig - right?)

If you can wait until next weekend, I'll grab some pics for you if it'll help?

Cheers, Al.

[Paddy]

You may not have the head room but have you considdered a roller door? The bottom edge is level with the lintel when rolled up.

[jameslwt]

I looked at that one fridge, but thought it would not work as

1)no where for them to slide to - out to sides is thin air and grass, and if in 2 halves it would not be wide enough to get truck in.

2) Plenty of room to open out, ie practically a small field! (great for pressure washing!!)

Was thinking about concertina folding, but could be a pain to fit.

Normal barn doors seemed the easiest option if I can make them strong enough. And the cheapest (been told by swmbo that this has to be self funding - ie what I got for the concrete sectionnal garage that I had for sale a few weeks ago, plus whatever I can get for the up and over door (probably more scrap value) and the electric opener.)

Cheers tho.....

[B reg 90]

I had this problem. \luckily there was a 8" pannel of wood above the door - hence door moved up be 8". I did intend to extend the bottom of the door to fill the gap - but the bit of stained ply from above the door is still there proped up by old batteries. I can now get my 90 in with 2" lift and 32" tyres, or the disco.

Adrian

[jameslwt]

James I have doors as you describe.

(You've been there to pick up that Mig - right?)

If you can wait until next weekend, I'll grab some pics for you if it'll help?

Cheers, Al.

Al

Yeah thats me!

That would be brilliant

Many thanks

James

[jameslwt]

I had this problem. \luckily there was a 8" pannel of wood above the door - hence door moved up be 8". I did intend to extend the bottom of the door to fill the gap - but the bit of stained ply from above the door is still there proped up by old batteries. I can now get my 90 in with 2" lift and 32" tyres, or the disco.

Adrian

This sounds similar to what we curently have, but would still end up losing height when the door was up, plus the door is pretty heavy and missing all the locking bits etc as it is opened/shut/locked by the electric opener thingy, which then loses another ft of height!

[swanny]

easy way is to get some 25mm ply or even 18mm ply. and like you said have 1 half concertina the othe half as a personal door. you will need some 18in band hindges 16 of for the end were fit to the opening and some double flat hinges for the concertina 3 of. dont go to b&q try a farm supply shop of a timber yard. if useing 18mm ply run some 25x18mm pse timber around the edges.

swanny

[Coastcard]

I have similar plans (nothing like putting in inside once you have finished rebuilding it in the rain!!).

Don't know if it is of any use, but there is a guy on ebay selling made to measure doors in Salisbury for under £200 a pair. I was amazed how pricey garage doors were and these seemed pretty reasonable. Having said that the timber looks quite knotty and not sure how substantial they are, but maybe worth a look.

[Will]

I've go plenty of agricultural barns with barn type doors on at home, up to 20' wise * 10' tall doors, so quite a weight! try agricultural supplies for hinges, pins on ours are around 20mm rod! ours are mainly 50mm box section frames with galv sheet covering, catch the wind a bit, but can usually come somehow, I would recommend some type of very strong catching point too keep them open and this is our usual problem and if you rely on a trusty brick or something, it WILL fail and blow closed one day, which hurts if your in the way!

Hope this helps

Will

[jameslwt]

Cheers guys - was thinking it would probably need some substantial hardware and not some namby-pamby rubbish!

Will have a look at the ebay stuff - Thanks!

[reads90]

I have roller doors on my house garage. Which is qutie common here in Aus. reason being most people have jacked up 4x4's

Both my 90 and Disco (which both have bigish tyres and 2" lift) get in with plenty of room

And rollers doors are easy to put a remote on so that you have electric doors

[Orgasmic Farmer]

I recently made a set of doors on my workshope which are 10 foot wide and 9 foot tall. I made them in 3 leaves - 2 fold together and one opens on its own. I used a fairly substantial steel frame and covered it with galvinised sheet as is the norm in barn building. I hung it on standard barn door hinges. The frame is made of angle rawl-bolted to the blockwork, to which I have welded correspoding hinges. Because it is on a slop I have to have the door opening inwards but would work as well the other way if you had space. Being 9 foot high and galv sheets only 8 foot, I filled in the top of the doors with perspx to let a bit of extra light in.

[Astro_Al]

Here ya go: 3 dorrs each 8' by 8'. I see no reason you couldn't make wider ones to fill the space you have though. If in doubt, stick another hinge on!

Home sweet home:

If you need more pics or a visit let me know.

Al.

[jameslwt]

Cheers Al - looks good.

Basically what I had in mind - am going to start playing this week on it.

Many thanks for the pics etc.

James

[Turbocharger]

I think I’d pick something on a box steel frame and rivet alu or galv sheet to it. Put a diagonal in for strength and a small pedestrian door too. If you can, avoid having a bar at floor level on your pedestrian door. Use plenty of shootbolts to hold it when its shut, certainly two at the top and two at the bottom. Your local farm supplies will help here although I found the last chunky ‘farm’ hinges I bought were made of monkey metal and bent horribly. If weight is becoming an issue you could have a skid pad to take the weight of the door when its in the open and closed positions, or even a jockey wheel (on a spring?) to support it all the time.

Is security an issue? You could put some chunky hinges and a big padlock on it but I guess there’s no point if you can kick through the skin or get into the shed elsewhere with a claw hammer…

[hoss1720]

Get onto E-bay and enter GLIDEROL,you will find a firm called COUNTRYWIDE GARAGE DOORS.Ive just purchased a 14ft x 7ft remote controlled roller shutter door for £530.00.

The best quote prior was £1700.00 for the same door.

The door is fantastic.