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Replacing a fuel injection pump on a 2.5 N/A or TD


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The method for replacing the injector pump is almost the same for both engines - the only difference being the boost/spill rail pipes. It would be easier if you had the correct injector pump timing setting pin, but a bit of adjusting will get things right. Other than that, a torque wrench that goes up to at least 199lb/ft (270nm) is needed - although a breaker bar/bit of scaffold pole is commonly used to tighten the crank bolt, water pump/viscous spanner is also needed unless you have a fixed fan on the engine.

A trick for undoing the crank bolt is to put a 41mm socket/breaker bar on the crank bolt with the bar under the drivers side chassis rail, disconnect the fuel cut-off switch, and then spin the engine on the starter. The high torque of the starter invariably undoes the bolt. If you prefer not to use this method, then you will have to devise some way of locking the engine with either the proper tool, or through the starter motor hole on the flywheel ring gear.

Disconnect fuel cut off switch - the wire is at the rear of the injector pump.


Place the socket securely on the crank bolt - making sure the bar is under the chassis rail on the drivers side.



Flick the starter on the key so that the engine turns just a few times - you don't want the engine spin long enough for the bolt to be completely undone - the socket etc might fly off.

If you have a viscous fan, then the right spanner is needed to remove the fan assembly.


Put the spanner on the nut behind the fan and give it a sharp whack with a hammer - the thread is left hand, so knock the spanner to the right as shown.



Remove the fan and while the belts are still tensioned - undo the 4x13mm bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump, the alternator tensioner bar at the top and slacken the bottom pivot point.





PAS pump next - 3 x 13mm bolts to undo - two on the top and one on the bottom left hand side. The pump will then pivot inwards and both belts can then be removed.


Once the belts are off, undo the crank bolt and remove it, then the crank pulley. If you're lucky the pulley will just slide off, but thread locking compound quite often makes removal of the pulley difficult and an extractor has to be made to pull it off the crank nose.



Water pump next. Undo both jubilee clips on the thermostat housing/water pump hose and slide it up until it clears the pump.



Then the bottom hose - undo the clip, pull the hose off and allow the system to drain down, then tuck the hose out of the way.


There are 7 13mm bolts that hold the water pump on, they are various lengths, so make note/saver card to make sure you put them back the right way.



Once the pump is removed, the bolts that hold the timing cover on can be removed - once again the bolts are all 13mm and of various lengths, so make sure they go back in the same position.


There also 2 x 10mm bolts underneath the front cover.


The front cover will now come off - it has two locating dowels and may have sealant/gasket goo on it as well, so you will probably have to carefully lever it off.


There's no real way of locking the injector pump sprocket nut, so while the belt is still attached, put a 19mm socket on the nut with a T-bar and give it a sharp whack with a hammer to undo the nut. Leave it on the thread for now.



Put the crank bolt back in and set the timing - the crankshaft turns twice for every one rotation of the injector pump and camshaft sprockets, so check the timing marks are in line with the arrows cast into the rear of the timing chest.



Note that there appears to be two timing marks on the injector pump sprocket. You time it using the pip and not the F-mark


Slacken the two 13mm nuts on the tensioner and it will drop down. remove the timing belt.


To the rear of the pump now - there's a 13mm nut/bolt on the rear support bracket - a bit fiddly to get at, but remove it.


Both fuel supply and return pipes now - 14mm on this, but they may be 13mm. Tuck the pipes up as far as possible to prevent fuel from draining out.



Injector pipes now. They will be either 5/8" or 17mm. They can be removed as a set or the central clamp removed and taken off individually. The pump end may need a 14mm spanner to keep the pump connection still.



The throttle linkage can be disconnected by udoing the nut (8mm), or by removing the clip at the end of the rod and the rod will then come off the ball.


Boost and spill rail pipes next (depending on what engine you have) these are 10mm, but you may have two banjo fittings here which will be 5/8"


All that's now holding the injector pump to the timing case is three 13mm nuts/washers. Slacken all 3.




To remove the sprocket there are two ways - rap the nut a few times (don't beat the hell out of it), or lever the sprocket outwards with a screwdriver or similar and rap the edge of the sprocket with a hammer. Take care not to lose the small woodruff key on the pump shaft.



Remove the three nuts/washers and the pump will lift off - angle the back of it outwards towards the wing to clear the suppport bracket.


Putting the replacement pump on is the exact reverse of what you just did. If you don't have the correct timing setting pin, then you will have to rotate the pump a mm at a time anti-clockwise until there is no smoke on start-up (if the timing is retarded), or clockwise if there is diesel knock (known also as detonation). These engines are notoriously difficult to start on the key after this type of work - the injector pipes will be empty and there's no quick way to bleed the system after the injector pump, so expect to almost flatten the battery, or if you can, get someone to tow start you.


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