yella 90 Posted October 28, 2007 Posted October 28, 2007 now, im a person who likes to give anything a go, and one of them things is twin motoring my front 8274 now i was looking at doing it how jim used to make them, adapter plate and machineing the casing but when i took it apart tonight for a general check over, i thought it would be rude not to have a look and a measure of the motor ect but my god, its kin close now a rough look at how much has to be shaved off, its around 3mm, but is the top housing even that thick i have use of a miller and lathe, so i dont have much problems machine wise but im just unsure of the strength of the casting afterwards jim are you willing to shed some light ? or still waterproofing the ecu lewis have you fettled with twin motors yet ? or not got around to it ? paul, what about you, you used to have one didnt you ? cheers dan Quote
Lewis Posted October 28, 2007 Posted October 28, 2007 We (Tom mostly) fabricated a tophousing, it was a failure, we couldnt get the gear contact right or the bearings to last. Gave up after 2 goes. Tonk on here has built his own. Why not just talk to the-man-who-never-smiles at Weston Coyney? His seems to work quite well. Also, ask him why he didnt buy a Gigglepin one Quote
watson Posted October 29, 2007 Posted October 29, 2007 ive got a couple of mates who run the giggle pin twin housing and it works beautifully and i dont thinkk it is over pricey for what you get having used it its the power of a double line pull with the same speed as a single if that makes sence josh Quote
Tonk Posted October 29, 2007 Posted October 29, 2007 Dan, u need to have about 3mm out of the top housing where the motor cog runs, the casting is about 5-6mm thick, make a strong motor mount and u shouldn't have any strength issues. Quote
yella 90 Posted October 29, 2007 Author Posted October 29, 2007 We (Tom mostly) fabricated a tophousing, it was a failure, we couldnt get the gear contact right or the bearings to last. Gave up after 2 goes. Tonk on here has built his own. Why not just talk to the-man-who-never-smiles at Weston Coyney? His seems to work quite well. Also, ask him why he didnt buy a Gigglepin one julian does smile, just need to know how...like winching up a bank, leaving the handbreak off and watch if roll back down what its just come up he's like me, will have ago at anything before buying the proper job ive seen julians, altho is is made out of steel afink im going to use some billet ally easier to work with what bearing failures did you have ? cheers tonk, i didnt actualy think that the housing was that thick what motor supports do you reckon are best coming off the winch ? or off the bumper ? surely if it comes off the bumper like some ive seen, if you hit a tree hard enough, wont i stant a chance of breaking something ? cheers dan Quote
Tonk Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 i built my motor supports to come from a tie bar across the back of the drum, runs underneath the motors to support them and fixes onto the front of the winch cradle Quote
simon red90 Posted October 31, 2007 Posted October 31, 2007 i'd give anything some hard thought but this one would call for my credit card! Quote
Lewis Posted October 31, 2007 Posted October 31, 2007 he's like me, will have ago at anything before buying the proper job Yes, but thats not the reason he didnt buy one. At least not what he told me The failures we had involved the motor gears trying to climb off the intermediate gear, then with the centres moved closer to the gear we had perfect tooth contact but the bearing on the intermediate shaft expired too quickly to be useful. This was using a Tom-ManufacturedTM phosphor bronze bearing. Perphaps with less money, more time, less actual work, and more inclination we would have finished it. But a payrise came and suddenly I could afford XP motors and 8074's rather than 2hp motors on a tired 8274. Maybe if we get another long period of downtime I'll persuade Tom it needs looking at again Quote
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