Replacing the fuel tank on a 90

[Les Henson]

The vehicle in this thread is a 2.5TD 90 with a slight leak from the fuel tank

Not that it really matters, but a leak is usually from the seam weld where the two halves of the tank are joined together, or between the reinforcing lower section and the main body of the tank. Replacing the tank is one of the dirtiest, smelliest jobs you can do - especially if it's been leaking for a while and you are lucky enough to be able to afford to waste the fuel Diesel will have got everywhere - the mud on the top of the tank, surrounding bodywork/chassis, etc. Start inside the drivers side first - before you get filthy. Remove the seat cushion - exposing the seat box cover panel and remove the 6xscrews that holds it in place. The flow and return pipes and the sender unit are easily accessible then.

Clean aroung the pipes and sender unit, lift the rubber gaiter off the sender wires, make a note of their position and then disconnect them.

The pipe connections require 2 x 14mm spanners. Hold the pipe end still with one spanner and undo the other - be careful not to fracture the steel pipes.

Cable tie the two pipes and sender wire out of the way - the seat adjuster is handy.

The sender is held in the tank by a metal ring which has three small lugs on it. Using a screwdriver or blunt chisel, knock the ring in a clockwise direction until the ring comes free. Lift out the sender (you have to turn it clockwise as you lift it out), recover the rubber seal.

Pick-up pipe next - 5xscrews and a cork gasket.

Finally the return pipe - just two screws and a small cork gasket.

Now from underneath. Drain the tank - there's usually a 19mm drain plug at the rear corner of the tank. No matter what you reckon is in the tank there will be more, so allow containers for this.

Gods own fuel

Inside the O/S rear wheel arch now. There are two jubilee clips - one for the filler pipe and one for the balance pipe. It's a waste of time trying to undo them, so I just grip the crew housing with a pair of mole grips and snap them. Pull both pipes off the filler neck part.

There's another clip on the other side of the panel that holds the ends of the pipes to the tank. You won't be able to get at them just yet. The balance pipe will just slide out of it's hole when you remove the tank, so just leave it for now.

All the nuts/bolts that hold the tank in place are in very poor condition - in spite of them having a good soaking in diesel for a while. There's also a short extension attached to the hockey stick which supports the front of the tank that has to be removed. The front mounting has a rubber bush on it to dampen vibration/shocks, but the rear two are just nuts and bolts.

With the exception of the front tank mount, all the other fixings are too tucked away to get at with a ratchet, so just two 13mm spanners.

As long as you leave the support in place the tank will not move. Once the three 13mm nuts/bolt are removed, the tank will drop down a small amount, but is such a tight fit that you will have to lever on it to get it off.

The three fixings for the support bracket.

The bracket that supports the front of the tank.

To remove the second jubilee clip that holds the filler pipe to the tank, move the tank forwards and pull the outer edge down as much as you can. Again just break the clip, then slide the pipe off and with a bit of leverage/kicking, the tank will finally come away.

Fortunately the old tank had only been on a couple of weeks otherwise it would have been harder to do

The new tank is a Bearmach item - about £70. Their tanks have improved lately - the last time I fitted one I had to take an angle grider to it before it would go on.

Apply some grease to both pipe connections, and the same for the inside of the hoses. Use new jubilee clips - 70mm and 20mm - two of each.

Put the new tank into position - keeping it forward and attach the two hoses.

Replace the support bracket and fixing bolts (use new bolts). Reattach the filler and balance pipes to the filler neck.

Replace the sender first. Grease the seat for the rubber seal and the seal itself to prevent it from bunching up as you knock the locking ring back round. The float of the sender has to end-up facing forwards, so in sideways and rotate it anti-clockwise to get it in the right position. knock the ring back round 1/3 of a turn anti-clockwise.

Replace the wires in the same position as they were previously and then put the rubber gaiter back over the connection.

Replace the two pipes - don't over tighten them, the sealing rings are copper and don't need a lot of force to seal. You may find that you will have to prime the fuel lines by way of the primer lever on the lift pump. Replace the seat box cover plate and then the seat cushion. If you want to put back any fuel that wa sdrained out, then bear in mind that any water that was in the old tank and a lot of dirt will now be at the bottom of the containers - especially the firt one you used, so be careful.

Les.

[nicks90]

you make it sound soooooo easy -

Put the new tank into position - keeping it forward and attach the two hoses

my version included 5 hours of swearing and shaking and bashing to get the old one out, new one in and a triple jointed wrist to do up the flippin pipes!

I have since decided that if this tank starts to leak - i'm just gonna replace the whole motor.

[s2hotdog]

Again

Thank you les - this may well come in vary handy as I think my tank has started to leak

Steve

[sgnas]

you make it sound soooooo easy -

my version included 5 hours of swearing and shaking and bashing to get the old one out, new one in and a triple jointed wrist to do up the flippin pipes!

I have since decided that if this tank starts to leak - i'm just gonna replace the whole motor.

It's down to landrover tolerances

I've done two on "identical" 1989 90s

One slipped in

The other I had to jump up and down in the cab on top of the tank to get it out.

To put it in a gave up with the "twist thro' 45 etc" and took the sill off.