paintman Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 There are two sensors on the top. One behind the other. The front one is easy to get at. The back one isn't. Guess which one you have to remove? (For those that are not familiar with Land Rover design it is NOT the easy one ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 LOL, not the fuel pressure sensor on the left (The easy one) but the one under all the hoses next to the injectors...........................................the one i nearly burned my skin off on sunday evening trying to get it off whilst the engine was roasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 Can anyone confirm if this is the part i need RE: ignition Amplifier (the one that attatches to the dizzy) STC1184 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 My prats book says RTC5089 but it may be superceded as mine only covers up to '91. A good alternative is to upgrade to a GM one, my RR has this and has been running a stoopidly powerful sports coil on this system without problems. BTW the smear of grease nige mentions on the body should actually be heat-sink compound (like when you mount a cooling fan on your PC's CPU) also known as thermal grease. It's not critical but if you've got some it's preferable to just grease. Maplins sell little syringes of it for pennies, or I can post you one FOC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex park Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 hi just for info, although my landy is the 3.9 v8 disco i think its the same engine, i had major problems with the LPG backfiring too, so much so that it completely blew my airbox to bits. found the culprit to be a faulty Ht lead causing a nasty missfire and back fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 My prats book says RTC5089 but it may be superceded as mine only covers up to '91. A good alternative is to upgrade to a GM one, my RR has this and has been running a stoopidly powerful sports coil on this system without problems.BTW the smear of grease nige mentions on the body should actually be heat-sink compound (like when you mount a cooling fan on your PC's CPU) also known as thermal grease. It's not critical but if you've got some it's preferable to just grease. Maplins sell little syringes of it for pennies, or I can post you one FOC. Right i will go look for that part, the upgrade you mention fridge, is it an easy task? Kind of wire i'll need to extend it from the dizzy? i dont wanna get too carried away, just want to see if the amp is the problem and then i will be a happy chappy. Alex, thanks for the info mate, it's only ever backfired once on LPG and all my leads have just been renewed so hopefully thats the end to that for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 Ok, can't find that part number so i take it it's out of date.........................da* and blast. Just dont want to order the wrong part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 Ok part numbers i have(with the help of Spanners) got a hold of, just want to make sure they are correct. Can anyone confirm? STC1184 for amp temp sender: ETC8496 washer: 243967 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 temp sender: ETC8496 washer: 243967 Those are both good according to my parts book, the amp it says RTC5089 as I mentioned in my last post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Hi fridge, check out the link regarding that part number http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...Coil/index.html It's recommended that i use STC1184 and the other part listed with it is if i have a 2 pin instead of a 3 pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 Ok folks, Got the CTS in today and replaced it...................Engine is now running better but i would say it's not fully right. It idles at around 950rpm and i let it run for about 30 mins, before it would be about ten mins gone and it would start to get very rough and cut out, then take an age to restart. Now.................it idles ok and can run on and on and on without getting the coughing and cutting out all the time.but.............when i select a gear (auto) sometimes it'll cut out, sometimes it'll idle at around 350-400rpm. It'll start up alot quicker now with the sensor replaced. Do you think i need to adjust my idle speed to do away with the risk of it cutting out in a gear or could this be signs that the AMP is still needing replaced? A slightly happier DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Cap is after market i think but new.Leads are lucas and new, arm is lgenuine and cleaned up in the last week. Ok, good news. If the cap is NOT Genuine, then fit a genuine one, I have lost track of how many "Newish good cond" Non Genuine caps are hopeless ! The leads are also not fitted properly, crosses don't help, do a search I did a post a while back with a pic as to how the leads can go on, and as these are genuine they will behave according to the pic. What age / type are the plugs, misfires kill plugs, best to fit a new set of BP6RES NGKs Is there anyone who can check the timing for you etc ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 I will get a new pic of my leads as they are sitting at present Nige, These leads in the pic are the old ones that were shot. The cap is not genuine although new. The plugs are new end of sep. and are NGK ones. Timing? I have done TDC, first piston is at top and rotor arm is about to strike number one. I dont really have access to the light timing check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 I will get a new pic of my leads as they are sitting at present Nige, These leads in the pic are the old ones that were shot.The cap is not genuine although new. The plugs are new end of sep. and are NGK ones. Timing? I have done TDC, first piston is at top and rotor arm is about to strike number one. I dont really have access to the light timing check. AH ! TDC is really a bit rough, you need someone with a timing light to fine tune, that may definately help a lot ! Any kindly forumers near you ? Post up the pic of the leads Found the other thread for you : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...;hl=Rover+leads Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 I dont really know if there's saints......... eh i mean forumers near, there's a few from SLROC.co.uk that have been a help but they dont do the timing light stuff Lead pic will come tomorrow. I have put them all on and tried very hard not to cross them as i know that might cause problems, i would say the right bank of leads(from grill) are very close together due to position and small space to get through next to oil cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 Thanks for the link. Haynes manual was followed with this one and got the other member with same engine to actually check they were hooked up in exactly the same way. Spark plugs = i will check your part number with the ones i have as in that thread i see even a diff in NGK ones can be a prob.......................right??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 Here's my leads as they are now..........................Just discovered that i have an intermotor coil so i'm off now to get my OEM one on. Hopefully will make a little difference too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 Job done and all seems ok, can't really tell if there's much of a difference but i only ran it a couple of minutes. Can anyone tell me if this is the screw(alan key type) that adjusts the idle speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 Also if this dizzy cap is the one i am after many thanks...........dizzy cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Also if this dizzy cap is the one i am after many thanks...........dizzy cap? Hiya, NO Genuine is from dealer only, it MUST be genuine, not pattern or "OEM" Part number may be correct, just ring dealers and ask them if in stick, I would also suggest a new rotor arm as I have known no genuine caps muck up genuine arms Yes that keyway (either allen bolt or srcewdriver) adjusts tickover Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 Hmmmm so need to go to actual land rover dealer and get a dizzy cap from them? Don't think there's one near me, wonder if they do online orders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 This one?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Putting non-genuine caps & rotors into the V8 is asking for trouble. Ask 'cruiser' on the LRO forum. A pattern rotor arm finished up costing him £600 trying to find a mysterious running fault. The pattern rotor was not considered as it was new. And it was the problem. Anyway, I thought you had got & fitted the correct parts in Part 1 of your troubles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 The only bit that wasn't genuine paintman was the cap, i haven't went near the rotor arm.........................i've cleaned it up. How do i tell if it's a genuine one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The genuine rotor arms will have Lucas stamped on the top of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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