Help! Advice needed

[ThreeSheds]

Hi,

Sorry if this is already answered somewhere - I have a feeling I have seen it, I did have a look, but couldn't find anything......)

I was really pleased an hour ago when I got the pulley bolt undone and removed the assembly from the crank... However now I can't separate the layers! I have removed the thrower at the back, the six bolts and the roll-pin but can't seem to get any further... Advice would be greatly appreciated...

The reason I am attempting to strip the pulley is to check it out for fitting of a trigger-wheel for Megajolt. I have read about people who have used 5mm disks (although I can't really see where it would go) and IIRC Geoff Beaumont used a ford part from a transit that was sandwiched between the damper and the back pulley. But he didn't mention how he split the pulleys. Couldn't find that post either!

I'm off back outside now (days like this are few and far between!) but will check back soon...

TwoSheds

[FridgeFreezer]

On mine (and Nige's) the trigger wheel is on the back, just before the mud shield, no separation needed.

[ThreeSheds]

On mine (and Nige's) the trigger wheel is on the back, just before the mud shield, no separation needed.

That would appear to be a much better way of doing it - it looks like you used a trigger-wheels.com trigger-wheel? I was thinking of that too, but (not being sufficiently lateral in my thinking) I couldn't see how it would fit... Never thought of discarding the oil thrower bits

Many thanks for the help.

TwoSheds

[geoffbeaumont]

I took all the bolts out and tapped it with a mallet, as far as I can recall.

In theory the wheels Nige and Jon have ought to be more robust and more securely mounted, but in practice the approach I used (which isn't unique to my old truck - I got that method from the Megasquirt forums) seems to be fine. protoprincess has my old Range Rover now, so you'd have to ask her if it's still doing the job!

[ThreeSheds]

I took all the bolts out and tapped it with a mallet, as far as I can recall.

In theory the wheels Nige and Jon have ought to be more robust and more securely mounted, but in practice the approach I used (which isn't unique to my old truck - I got that method from the Megasquirt forums) seems to be fine. protoprincess has my old Range Rover now, so you'd have to ask her if it's still doing the job!

Geoff,

I like your solution, not least because the Trigger-Wheels.com approach costs £42 and I think even a Ford dealer couldn't ask that much for a bent pressing... Although thinking about it

You know this Megajolt thing really starts to mount up:

Trigger wheel £42 (trigger-wheels.com)

Edis-8 £30 (all the way from the land of the weak $ )

Coilpacks £40 (eBay - haven't checked yet but I bet the days of getting them for a fiver from the scrappy are long gone)

Megajolt £55 (In kit form from Autosport Labs)

Consumables £30 (?)(wires, fuse-holders, heat-shrink, diesel to Maplins etc)

Leads £75 (Magnecor - well you wouldn't go to this much trouble and leave it on manky Halfrds own would you?)

Total £272 :o

And considering that I already have a working system...

TwoSheds (I wish I hadn't added that up - I'm feeling depressed now)

p.s. I tapped it, levered it and hit it with a copper drift - nothing shifted it...

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Geoff,

I like your solution, not least because the Trigger-Wheels.com approach costs £42 and I think even a Ford dealer couldn't ask that much for a bent pressing... Although thinking about it

You know this Megajolt thing really starts to mount up:

Trigger wheel £42 (trigger-wheels.com)

Edis-8 £30 (all the way from the land of the weak $ )

Coilpacks £40 (eBay - haven't checked yet but I bet the days of getting them for a fiver from the scrappy are long gone)

Megajolt £55 (In kit form from Autosport Labs)

Consumables £30 (?)(wires, fuse-holders, heat-shrink, diesel to Maplins etc)

Leads £75 (Magnecor - well you wouldn't go to this much trouble and leave it on manky Halfrds own would you?)

Total £272 :o

And considering that I already have a working system...

TwoSheds (I wish I hadn't added that up - I'm feeling depressed now)

p.s. I tapped it, levered it and hit it with a copper drift - nothing shifted it...

Wait till you megasquirt it £££S more

The trigger wheel I have got I couldn't get anywhere, the dimension are on my old Megajolt thread the triggerwheel ones were nowhere near the OD and ID I wanted - as you need a nice snug fit over the step on the back of the pulley where the mudsheild comes away as just proud on the OD of the pulley assemble , Jons was made via a CNC punch, mine was '3 bears engineering' stylee with a compound table

If you can get one madfe for that money grab it save a load of time and sweat

you'll need lobger bolts to bolt it all up, I made the VR sensor bracket, mounted it then do the trigger wheel setting up the teeth in the right place, blob of tippex removed checked all in the right place then drilled straight through the wheel and bolt up, the adjustent to 10 degrees was via the VR sensor which has an adjustable bravket

Nige

[FridgeFreezer]

It does mount up a bit, but then for ~£100 more you could have full MegaSquirt. Compare that to an Emerald / Omex / Webcon setup with similar capabilities and it's knocking on 1/5th the price of some of them. A basic Emerald ECU is about £600 IIRC.

BTW I paid £20 for four coil packs, leads, and VR sensors and yes I am running some very crappy standard HT leads - yet it still runs underwater!

[ThreeSheds]

It does mount up a bit, but then for ~£100 more you could have full MegaSquirt. Compare that to an Emerald / Omex / Webcon setup with similar capabilities and it's knocking on 1/5th the price of some of them. A basic Emerald ECU is about £600 IIRC.

BTW I paid £20 for four coil packs, leads, and VR sensors and yes I am running some very crappy standard HT leads - yet it still runs underwater!

When I wrote that, I subsequently immediately thought that I could get away with crappy leads to save money. Also the Megajolt will be the last thing I buy in case I find the extra cash between now and then for a Megasquirt (Hope the dollar stays low!)

Actually I am going to do a half job at this juncture: Since I only need to move it around on the drive for the next few months, I am going to EDIS it and leave it at that until I am more or less finished on everything else.

Looking forward to that BIG FAT spark! :D

[geoffbeaumont]

I like your solution, not least because the Trigger-Wheels.com approach costs £42 and I think even a Ford dealer couldn't ask that much for a bent pressing... Although thinking about it

Ford charge about £15 for it - I've lost the part number, but it's for a transit.

There is a catch, though - the inner diameter of the Ford part is too small, so you'll need to get it turned or machined out to the right size to fit on the pulley stack. Geoff Greenwood did mine as a favour (haven't seem him on here in a long time?) so I don't know what this would cost if you had to pay.

Although my trigger wheel was clamped between the pulleys and harmonic damper, rather than bolted, I still had an adjustable VR sensor bracket for tweaking the timing, as that was a lot less hassle than loosening everything off to move the trigger wheel.

[ThreeSheds]

Ford charge about £15 for it - I've lost the part number, but it's for a transit.

Hah - found it Transit trigger wheel part number

There is a catch, though - the inner diameter of the Ford part is too small, so you'll need to get it turned or machined out to the right size to fit on the pulley stack.

<cut & shut>

Although my trigger wheel was clamped between the pulleys and harmonic damper, rather than bolted, I still had an adjustable VR sensor bracket for tweaking the timing, as that was a lot less hassle than loosening everything off to move the trigger wheel.

I am now thinking of sandwiching a Transit wheel between the funny rounded thrower thing and the harmonic balancer with it facing forwards over said harmonic balancer - ie the other way round to this:

It would be a little tight on one of the bolts, but I think it would go... I think in any case I will be going with the Transit part - it is cheaper and easier so it's a no-brainer really And I think that this way round it won't need turning - If my estimate of 94mm id from this picture is correct...

TwoSheds