Chris Davies Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 So how do you get a nice gradual slope on the axle pad - I assume you are looking to remove a triangle shaped piece from the pad, how many mm at the 'wide end' of the triangle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Yup - thats exactly my experiences of em too! Tried the wedges but took em off again casue they're nasty. I've ground the spring seats too. If you dont correct the castor it kills props in no time! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Just to complete the picture, you guys did this on both front and rear axles, right? The same amount on each? Any idea how many degrees? How many were your wedges? Did they work as far as propshaft vibration/wear was concerned before your binned them? And in case anyone really hasn't a clue... You reduced the height of the spring pad/foot thing on the bottom axle casing on the side furthest from the spring shackle, right?!? (Don't want anyone doing it the wrong side now!). I might give this a bash myself when I'm next over. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Nope - front only - theres no castor on the back axle is there? Yes the wedges worked ok they just keep working loose, and rattle like hell when they are loose! Just grind the pads like you say - the shims are available in a variety of sizes. Think mine were 2.5 degrees but cant remember for certain. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 mine definitely were 2.5 degree wedges, IIRC i ground off 5mm off the mating pad down to zero the other end, think this kicks the nose by 3 degrees, no vibration probs. i wasn't going to grind the rear axle (shouldn't be any need) but after fitting a longer transmission i ended up with a shorter prop obviously, and a couple of chassis mods i ended up with some yoke binding problems on the prop, so i ground the rear axle pads to kick it a couple more degrees. rear prop instantly gets kicked when fitting extended shackles at the rear aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroveroff-roading Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Nice land rover series 3 persion called series 3 mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Davies Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Hmm, more confused now, I assumed that both front ard rear axle were done, I get prop rumble with FWH fitted (and in the free position) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Hmm, more confused now, I assumed that both front ard rear axle were done, I get prop rumble with FWH fitted (and in the free position) Chris take it out of 4wd! No seriously. Are we correcting for castor angle (ok - front axle only, obviously), or correcting for prop angle, in which case both apply, no? If we are discussing propshaft binding / vibration, then it's not about castor angle I guess. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 i done it to correct prop angles and help the yokes, vibration can be put down to worn uj's, siezed splines and/or prop out of balance or bent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
series3_mad Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 i made some wedges out of a bit of metal and drill two holes in it so i could slide part of the U bolt thought but today i ground about 3mm to about 5mm off the spring seat on the axle and now it is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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