Guest otchie1 Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Looking at the manual it looks like I have to take the front hubs off the vehicle to unbolt the front brake disks from the back of them. Is this right? What's likely to break when I do it and has anybody else felt the urge to track down the body responsible for designing certain bits and asking them pointy questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Yes it's right, you may want to replace the oil seal on the hub when you do it but none of it is difficult or expensive. Oh and you need a 12-point socket for the disc bolts IIRC but no idea what size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Oh and you need a 12-point socket for the disc bolts IIRC but no idea what size Ta, fridge. Re the caliper reatining bolts, a standard 1/2" 12point does it nicely - what else could it be on a 1989 vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 you'll need a hammer to separate the halves and loctite on the bolts when you replace them I did this on F/R axles recently. new pads at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 It sounds like you are concerned that it is a lot of work to replace the discs, believe me when I say it isn't and as long as you have the correct spanners/sockets and a hub-nut socket it is very simple. Sometimes the discs don't like to separate from the hub but this is only corrosion so they will come apart with some encouragement. I take it you are fitting new pads at the same time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 to remove the caliper from the swivel use a 1/2 inch or 13mm 12 point socket, same for the disc from hub IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 and when reattaching the disk to the hub - make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean and free from dust, burrs, rust and grime. otherwise your disk will not spin true with the hub and you'll get brake judder and knacker things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 And for the same reason do NOT put any form of oil or grease on the mating surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 And when trying to undo the bolts that hold the disc to the hub the best way to clamp the hub to stop it moving about is to slot the wheel nut studs back into the wheel- not try to hold the hub with your knees whilst attacking it with an air impact wrench... ask me how I know... Shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Yes it's right, you may want to replace the oil seal on the hub when you do it but none of it is difficult or expensive. Oh and you need a 12-point socket for the disc bolts IIRC but no idea what size On a 1994 200tdi defender: 13mm 12-point for the caliper bolts and 14mm 12-point for the bolts securing the disc to the hub. Stahlwille makes some good 12-points sockets, which is a worthwhile investment. One does not want these bolts rounded off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Thanks all - all noted. Yeah, it did sound like a lot of work compared to say a Mondeo where it just slots over the wheel studs. Still, with the hubs off I might finally be able to shift the rearmost radius arm bolts that are seized solid and I can't get the gun to. One day I'll find something that doesn't take a week to do ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Thanks all - all noted.Yeah, it did sound like a lot of work compared to say a Mondeo where it just slots over the wheel studs. Still, with the hubs off I might finally be able to shift the rearmost radius arm bolts that are seized solid and I can't get the gun to. One day I'll find something that doesn't take a week to do ;-) Personnally I'd rather work on my 110 than the wife's Mundano.... Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adz Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 And when trying to undo the bolts that hold the disc to the hub the best way to clamp the hub to stop it moving about is to slot the wheel nut studs back into the wheel- not try to hold the hub with your knees whilst attacking it with an air impact wrench... ask me how I know... Shrek Too right... slot the wheel nut studs into the wheel you've had to remove to get to the brakes and sit on the edge of the tyre while you 'attack' it with a long breaker bar and the right sized socket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael calvert Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Too right... slot the wheel nut studs into the wheel you've had to remove to get to the brakes and sit on the edge of the tyre while you 'attack' it with a long breaker bar and the right sized socket i have wedged a long breaker bar btween two studs before today to get the bolts holding the disk on, off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Twig Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 And when trying to undo the bolts that hold the disc to the hub the best way to clamp the hub to stop it moving about is to slot the wheel nut studs back into the wheel- not try to hold the hub with your knees whilst attacking it with an air impact wrench... ask me how I know... Shrek Sounds horrific.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Too right... slot the wheel nut studs into the wheel you've had to remove to get to the brakes and sit on the edge of the tyre while you 'attack' it with a long breaker bar and the right sized socket I second this method, wheel flat on the ground, hub studs back in their holes, job done Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 I second this method, wheel flat on the ground, hub studs back in their holes, job done Mo All this laying around in the dirt is just too much - I think I'll hold the disk tight in the vice and wind the bolts out with my air gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 do NOT put any form of oil or grease on the mating surfaces. I always put a thin film of either coppaslip or nickel grease on the mating surfaces. As long as you wipe off any excess after tightening the bolts and use threadlock on them - I don't see any problem. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 All this laying around in the dirt is just too much - I think I'll hold the disk tight in the vice and wind the bolts out with my air gun If you're using a impact gun you don't even need to hold it that tight. I just dropped the hub into my spare wheel on the floor. impact gun and ten seconds later they're all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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