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internal beadlocks


jericho
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I'm looking for some internal beadlock wheels - preferably 16x8.

I've seen the Stazworks website (nice,but for the shipping and import duty),and Straightforward supplies - are there any other manufacturers?

Matt Lee seems to have stopped production.

Does anyone on here have first hand experience of internal beadlocks?What should I watch out for?

Does anyone produce a steel split rim in landrover fittment - maybe I could make my own insert ?

The Straightforward ones look a little crude,but it may be unfair to judge them from the tiny pics on their site -

Does anyone have some decent pictures?

Thanks, Jerry.

.

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I'm looking for some internal beadlock wheels - preferably 16x8.

I've seen the Stazworks website (nice,but for the shipping and import duty),and Straightforward supplies - are there any other manufacturers?

Matt Lee seems to have stopped production.

Does anyone on here have first hand experience of internal beadlocks?What should I watch out for?

Does anyone produce a steel split rim in landrover fittment - maybe I could make my own insert ?

The Straightforward ones look a little crude,but it may be unfair to judge them from the tiny pics on their site -

Does anyone have some decent pictures?

Thanks, Jerry.

.

Are you saying my wheels look carp Jerry?
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I'm looking for some internal beadlock wheels - preferably 16x8.

I've seen the Stazworks website (nice,but for the shipping and import duty),and Straightforward supplies - are there any other manufacturers?

Matt Lee seems to have stopped production.

Does anyone on here have first hand experience of internal beadlocks?What should I watch out for?

Does anyone produce a steel split rim in landrover fittment - maybe I could make my own insert ?

The Straightforward ones look a little crude,but it may be unfair to judge them from the tiny pics on their site -

Does anyone have some decent pictures?

Thanks, Jerry.

.

We sell the stauns

When installing them be careful not to pinch the tube inside the rim. Thats about it.

http://www.staunproducts.com/beadlock.php

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I have a set of the straight forward rims in the garage at the moment, they only arrived just before I had to go away to work so I haven't actually put tyres on them yet.

The finish is a bit crude but looks OK, I had to go round and clean the weld splatter off and file a few rough edges down (supplied unpainted), the welding all looked good to me though. Bearing in mind they are cheaper than others they seem good value for money. Once I have put tyres on and run them I will find out now air tight they are, they sealing gasket supplied looks good though and should be up to the job so I'm hopefull.

Should be home in a couple of weeks then they will be tested!. :)

As for service... took over 7 month for the rims to actually arrive and the communications leave a lot to be desired :angry: , shame as other wise I would recommend them if that is what you are after.

With the dollar rate at the moment there must be some good deals from the US to be had although the shipping could cost a bit. Probable an opening for some one to import in bulk and sell on, provided every one wanted the same offset / size / stud pattern.....

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HI Folks.

Just high jacking this tread and putting in a comment.

As I am thinking of doing some home made internal beadlockers out of some 8 spokes I just wondered, do anybody have any experience on how the relation is betwen the width of the sleve one put inside the tyre and the width of the rim, I mean how much is it that the bead has to be squeezed to make the system work??

And the comment: Why not fit the tyres like the tractorpullers do, they just screw in a whole lot of selftapering 6mm screws in the bead through the edge off the rim and that holds a lot off abuse they run presure at 3-5psi!! just a thought.

Regards

Ole.

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HI Folks.

Just high jacking this tread and putting in a comment.

As I am thinking of doing some home made internal beadlockers out of some 8 spokes I just wondered, do anybody have any experience on how the relation is betwen the width of the sleve one put inside the tyre and the width of the rim, I mean how much is it that the bead has to be squeezed to make the system work??

And the comment: Why not fit the tyres like the tractorpullers do, they just screw in a whole lot of selftapering 6mm screws in the bead through the edge off the rim and that holds a lot off abuse they run presure at 3-5psi!! just a thought.

Regards

Ole.

The screw thing has already been done with reasonable success.

The job doesn't look too bad with modulars - get yourself a set with push out plasic rivet things, push them out, tap the holes (I don't think you'll get a nut behind them), bolt into place a ring and weld it to the shell, cut the shell inbetween the ring and the centre and you've got the split rim. As far as cages go they don't want to be that much larger than the distance between the beads as rubber is one of the hardest materials to compress even though its very flexible.

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HI Folks.

And the comment: Why not fit the tyres like the tractorpullers do, they just screw in a whole lot of selftapering 6mm screws in the bead through the edge off the rim and that holds a lot off abuse they run presure at 3-5psi!! just a thought.

Regards

Ole.

I actually have used screws for my beadlocking needs for many years now. We can buy special high tensile drag racing screws at about a dollar apiece that work well. A few years ago before I went to portals I permanently ran duall wheels with zero pressure on the inner tyres and never ever popped a bead with the screws fitted. However I fitted the screws dry without antiseize, and being high tensile they corrode quickly and snapped when I needed to remove them for tyre repairs.When Iget around to it I'll try fitting the screws with a clearance hole in the wheel rim and just thread them into the tyre bead to avoid that problem.

Had mixed success fitting internal beadlocks to other trucks. Without a fibre optic lense there is no way of really knowing if the tube isn't getting pinched between the outer cover and the tyre.

Bill.

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The screw thing has already been done with reasonable success.

The job doesn't look too bad with modulars - get yourself a set with push out plasic rivet things, push them out, tap the holes (I don't think you'll get a nut behind them), bolt into place a ring and weld it to the shell, cut the shell inbetween the ring and the centre and you've got the split rim. As far as cages go they don't want to be that much larger than the distance between the beads as rubber is one of the hardest materials to compress even though its very flexible.

Is he a mind reader :o that is exatly my idea, that much larger!! is that 1/8 or 3/16? or more.

Regards

Ole.

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I actually have used screws for my beadlocking needs for many years now. We can buy special high tensile drag racing screws at about a dollar apiece that work well. A few years ago before I went to portals I permanently ran duall wheels with zero pressure on the inner tyres and never ever popped a bead with the screws fitted. However I fitted the screws dry without antiseize, and being high tensile they corrode quickly and snapped when I needed to remove them for tyre repairs.When Iget around to it I'll try fitting the screws with a clearance hole in the wheel rim and just thread them into the tyre bead to avoid that problem.

Had mixed success fitting internal beadlocks to other trucks. Without a fibre optic lense there is no way of really knowing if the tube isn't getting pinched between the outer cover and the tyre.

Bill.

Hi Bill.

That sounds good I might try it, I have however spoken to a couple off tractorpuller guys ( www.team-interceptor.dk) and they say that the holes need to be just a tiny smaller than the screw otherwise, as far as they have found out, the screws break :o ??? They say.

Regards

Ole.

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Is he a mind reader :o that is exatly my idea, that much larger!! is that 1/8 or 3/16? or more.

Regards

Ole.

:lol::lol::lol: I'd thought of doing something simerlar myself at one point. However, I never found any rims in the right size and offset to try it on.

As far as sizes go I was guessing thinking about 5mm or less so I'd try 1/8" and go from there - I think it may be a case of 3 bears engineering. What are you using got the cage? Plastic pipe?

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:lol::lol::lol: I'd thought of doing something simerlar myself at one point. However, I never found any rims in the right size and offset to try it on.

As far as sizes go I was guessing thinking about 5mm or less so I'd try 1/8" and go from there - I think it may be a case of 3 bears engineering. What are you using got the cage? Plastic pipe?

Hope to find some plastic pipe or since I can weld the stuff, just some 3/8 flat cut to the right width, then rolled and welded.

We have some HDPE at firm that I thought off pinching.

If that fails, then two 3/8 thick alu bands 1/2-3/4 wide rolled welded and hold in distance off an appropriate number off 3/8 thick rods.

Regards

Ole.

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Where can i get a hold of Allied Rock-a-thon bead locks

And what would be the best size for 35-11.5-15 simex.

Thanks

There as link higher up to RedPath tyres give them a call, they should be able to advise on best wheel size and offset.

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Allieds aren't internal beadlocks.

single beadlocks are ok until the inner bead pops off, the tyre unseats and then rips the sidewall of the clamped side to shreds (Im sure someone's going to tell me that never happens.. :huh: )

internal beadlocks are as good as you can get in terms of keeping on moving when it all goes pair shaped or you want to run 0psi, both sidewalls are pinned. The insert preload seems to vary slightly between the manufacturers. Tyre screws always seemed a massive PITA to live with, you could always try making a internal clamp in a motorcross bike stylee?

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Micheles ones look good

Those interested may try and ask about using this email address

contact magazzino

FAO Mr. Luciano Vanossi,he's the sales manager and should be able to help.

I gave my inputs and suggested what to do and how,but I no longer work for them and can't say price or availability.

I saw a set fitted to a 110 a few weeks ago,but not sure if they were brand new or its was my trial set repainted.

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Tyre screws always seemed a massive PITA to live with,

It's been a few years since we played around with the original Tire Locks from Sweden and possibly the other brands have improved on the design, but back then neither the manufacturer nor the agent could satisfactorily explain how to fit the damn things without the risk upon inflation of the inner tube sneaking out one side of the retaining cover and chafing away within a few days..The very nature of fitting tyres to one piece well base wheel rims means that a section of the outer bead of the tyre must be pushed into the well so that the remainder of the bead can be levered or hammered over the bead lip. This puts the retaining cover off centre, and while there is a fair chance that it will centre itself when slidingup the wider more gradual taper of the inner bead seat of the rim there is no way that I could see how one could be certain that the outer side of the retaining cover went on concentrically especially when working blind. Both my mates who invested around a thousand dollars each in those beadlocks reckoned they were a massive PITA to live with whilst concurrently my el cheapo self tapping screws kept on keeping on. These blokes gave up after multiple tube failures and went over to conventional external beadlocks within about a year claiming the Tire Locks were a waste of money.

Bill.

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