Les Henson Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 300TDi disco with a drive problem. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 That's why I don't like grease... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 that's what mine looked like when i took it apart. cv cage had disintegrated inside the swivel housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Les, Excellent timing.... I'm in the process of rebuilding my Series 2 axles and had a question about the swivels that I was going to post. In the Technical Archive (Which is absolutely fantastic btw), you've rebuilt a more recent axle but using the old balls, previous shims. As I am using new swivel housings, Railko bushes and lower bearings, I'm going to be shimming from scratch. Should I add even distances to top and bottom or is it not critical in your opinion? BTW, I spent ages looking for a flat or dark side on the Railko bushes (Britpart) to allign according to instructions but I swear there aren't any on mine From my experience last night - When pressing the new components into the housing, press the bearing track first. Then, if you cock the Railko bush, you can still push it out with a bar through the brg track. (If you do the Railko first, it prevents easy, perpendicular access to the brg track if you jam it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 BTW, I spent ages looking for a flat or dark side on the Railko bushes (Britpart) to allign according to instructions but I swear there aren't any on mine Did mine recently, and the profiled part wasn't a different colour to the rest of it, but you could still clearly see which side to point towards the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 That's why I don't like grease... Grease or oil you still have to maintain them, and that just did not happen over a w/e. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Grease or oil you still have to maintain them, and that just did not happen over a w/e. Ah but with oil you would have had puddles to tell you the seal wasn't doing it's job. With grease you can get water in before you get grease out and that gives you brown balls as above You can also change oil to get the water out if you think there is some in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Anybody else use truck lube?? its viscosity somewhere between oil and grease! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter and hi two minders Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 You've just posted at the right time, just done major service on my 956 Disco and was wondering if I should re grease the pinions. Never been touched since I bought the truck 3 years ago, and should I somehow flush them out and re grease them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 27, 2007 Author Share Posted November 27, 2007 Fatboy - Put the old shims back on and as you tighten the top pin bolts - keep checking the preload. If it tightens up too much then you need to add a thin shim and try again until you get it right by a process of elimination. If everything is new, then go for a slightly higher than recommended preload as things will bed in and ease off. 15lb on assembly will be about 12-13 after a short while. Peter - Swivel grease doesn't have a change time and if you drain it you never get it all out anyway unless you rinse it out with engine oil. One sachet of it doesn't come to the top of the filler/level plug either, so you wouldn't know if the right amount is still in there. I have heard of people filling the swivel housing until it drips out of the filler/level plug hole with no ill effects. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Peter -Swivel grease doesn't have a change time and if you drain it you never get it all out anyway unless you rinse it out with engine oil. One sachet of it doesn't come to the top of the filler/level plug either, so you wouldn't know if the right amount is still in there. I have heard of people filling the swivel housing until it drips out of the filler/level plug hole with no ill effects. Les. Thanks Les, I do over fill mine, but they are striped cleaned and rebuild every 6 months, I believe that the grease has better shock loading than EP90 or even EP140. I do get migration from diff to swivel housing, but it does not seem to have any affect on any parts or the ARB, I also take out the level bung after an event and check the grease is still grease and not mud. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Cheers Les... Job done! 15lbs pull, feels lovely ! Front axle on tressles, looking tres bling B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Does that mean they arent mean't to look like that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share Posted November 28, 2007 Well yours are............ Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 empty - then i know i cant loose any....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Les (Hoping you read this one again), Your Tech Thread is for rebuilding later swivels with only two bolts on the top / disc brakes etc and it was very helpful. You couldn't tell me the correct torque for the nuts on the Series 2 Railko & Lower Brg could you? Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 One grunt for the bottom and two grunts for the top - works for me I only have the Haynes book for the S2 and it doesn't mention a torque figure at all for the Railko/bottom pin. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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