12V winch @ 24V

[Petergg]

I run 2 x 24v motors from 36v 8274 on front and love it. I did have a slight problem broken drum on 3peaks but that was another thing, I run 36v into 24v single rear motor but that has not done to much work yet, and am going to change that to run 24v for reliability.

I am building another motor at the moment, and that will also run 36v. Only problem is you can get a shock from 36v that makes you jump a bit

Peter

[pugwash]

Hydraulic or Electric is like saying Labour or Conservative, the only difference you could chuck the later in the ocean and no one would give a damn

oh great, not only do we have to argue about the type of winch and what flavour of juice it runs on; now you want us to argue about politics as well!

i'm not sure you're safe to have round here

[LandyManLuke]

fit a 24v alternator and two 12v batteries in series for 24v winch circuit and keep standard 12v circuit with it's own 12v battery for Dlander

Cheers

Steve

Or, just run the vehicle with a single 24v alternator, and two batteries, and tap off one battery for starter/lights. depends if you want to keep the systems seperate for reliability, or combined to save the (not inconsiderable) weight of batteries and alternators etc.

[smo]

Or, just run the vehicle with a single 24v alternator, and two batteries, and tap off one battery for starter/lights. depends if you want to keep the systems seperate for reliability, or combined to save the (not inconsiderable) weight of batteries and alternators etc.

Need to keep the original alternator as it has a vacume pump on the back.

[LandyManLuke]

Seperate systems then, as Steve suggests.

[smo]

Indeed, seems the best way. Standard 12V for "systems" and engine, and seperate 24V for winches

[dollythelw]

You could convert the brakes to Hydroboost and bin the vacuum pump requirement?

[rtbarton]

Indeed, seems the best way. Standard 12V for "systems" and engine, and seperate 24V for winches

You still need a 24v supply to charge the winching battery. A 2nd (24v) alternator would be best, but the remarks I made above about keeping it isolated won't apply as the 24v battery negative will be connected to ground.

[will_warne]

What have you done!!!!! This is a total can of worms!

This is an area that gets a lot of people excited so you've got to listen to both sides of the arguement and make your mind up for yourself. I think the results the guys in Australia and New Zealand have been having speak for themselves. You've also got to think about what sort of thing you're winch will be doing and make the decission based on that. However, if you're going to do really long pulls then no alternator will keep up and you'll kill your motors. If you don't back off and re rig when you get close to stalling you'll kill your motors. If you don't service your motors you'll kill your motors. If you don't use the right winch setup and over rev your motors you'll kill your motors. Get the idea Just like a race engine, the more highly strung you make something the less easy it is to use and the more attention it'll need over its lifetime. However, that doesn't stop it working well in the right situtation with the right person using it.

FYI, I'm running a front winch with a lot of Jim's bits with a pair of 12V motors running at 24V and a heavily breathed on 8074 on the back running a 24V motor but, as I'm doing it, you wouldn't want to do that