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Who's the best new landrover chassis supplier?


Steve 90

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Been thinking about building a new challenge truck for a while and I think its time to get on with it, Need to start with a new chassis although it will be different from standard at the rear as it will be a tray back (probably cross between tom cat and tray back actually), need roll cage mounts and also (probably but not 100 sure yet) need non landrover engine and gear box mounts also a few other mounts for various things. I also want it Galvanized which is why I need the mods done at chassis construction rather tan just doing them through the build. So who does a good chassis and will do them to a custom spec? Any ideas/recommendations???

Thanks.

Steve.

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I bought a new chassis a couple of weeks ago but did a chunk of research first.

Richards (www.richardschassis.co.uk) have the best reputation for quality but that is also refected in the price. With VAT, the galz chassis with removable crossmember was about £1,030. I called their number three times, no answer.

Designa (www.designa-chassis.co.uk) were next on reputation and slightly cheaper. Galv chassis £860. (Painted was £850). They were going to take something like 6 weeks after order placed to deliver.

Marsland (www.marsland-chassis.co.uk) were £716 direct but had similar lead times. However, they are cheaper at £656 via Paddock Motors.

The crunch was delivery. Paddock had them in stock and I just happened to be heading to Rotherham for work so nipped in ;) and popped one in the boot.

While I think about it: I actually called Paddocks on the Monday. They had one left.. and it was reserved. Five were meant to be getting delivered the next day (my day of travel). Nicola promised to call me when they came in and I have to say, I took that promise with a pinch of salt (I also had a feeling the chassis may not get there or something). However, following morning, she called and confirmed they were in! I picked mine up that afternoon along with a pile of other bits. Top service from them... (I even got a coffee :lol: )

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I looked at the richards chassis at Billing. Were happy to omit/add parts and do something different - I especially liked the cahassis they did for Jim. However I was put off by the knowledge that the chassis rails on replacement chassis are 2.5mm thinck instead of 1.9mm as used by LR (I think). That makes the main rails 30% heavier - I decided it was not good start to a build to be carrying the equivalent of an extra 1/3rd of a chassis in weight around......

Adrian

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I looked at the richards chassis at Billing. Were happy to omit/add parts and do something different - I especially liked the cahassis they did for Jim. However I was put off by the knowledge that the chassis rails on replacement chassis are 2.5mm thinck instead of 1.9mm as used by LR (I think). That makes the main rails 30% heavier - I decided it was not good start to a build to be carrying the equivalent of an extra 1/3rd of a chassis in weight around......

Adrian

Thicker rails = stronger and a lower CoG... Personally (if I was in the market for a chassis) these would be plus-points :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
Thicker rails = stronger and a lower CoG... Personally (if I was in the market for a chassis) these would be plus-points :)

richards chassis use 2mm steel on all of its components.also sadly too much stitch welding for my liking, in my oppinion if you buy a chassis it should be fully welded not stiched..

. if you want strong then designa is the place everything is FULLY WELDED not stiched and all chassis rails are 3mm steel,

filly gussited around spring hangers for strength, spring hangers 3mm thick,radius arm mounts all 3mm A frame x-member 3mm thick, basicly its all 3mm and cos its fully welded its strong and stiff. cant see the point in stitch welding like richards chassis do cos it may make turn around slightly quicker but personally i'd rather not go down the bodged route....

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Stitch welding is also known as "hit and miss" welding - you weld say 100mm, leave a gap of say 50mm and them weld 100mm, leave a gap of 50mm etc. etc.

It is a perfectly acceptable method of welding in the right circumstances. As it introduces less heat and less built in stress it is also useful for galvanised items as there is less risk of warping distortion in the bath.

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Jase Genuine=Marsland no replacement chassis from L/R

if you order one Marsland supply it.

My 90 has a genuine replacement chassis under it. Came from a dealership as far as I remember. It was replaced by the previous owner. And it wasn't 2K. And it's not very straight any more. I may have bent a small bit at the back, when a small oak tree jumped out behind me :o

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Stitch welding is also known as "hit and miss" welding - you weld say 100mm, leave a gap of say 50mm and them weld 100mm, leave a gap of 50mm etc. etc.

It is a perfectly acceptable method of welding in the right circumstances. As it introduces less heat and less built in stress it is also useful for galvanised items as there is less risk of warping distortion in the bath.

Ahhhh,

In that case all the Richards chassis i have seen are fully welded.............

Thought so, but i thought i had better ask a grown up :D

Jim :)

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why would anyone want to buy a chassis thats not fully welded...

there is a massive difference between fully welded and stiched ( strength wise).. fully welded it has a far less chance of twisting when you hit something, so surly its a big plus to have a fully welded chassis especially when made from 3mm instead of 2mm plate..

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Ahhhh,

In that case all the Richards chassis i have seen are fully welded.............

Thought so, but i thought i had better ask a grown up :D

Jim :)

i've seen plenty of chassis from richards that were stitched, they might be fully welding now i dont no, prob realised that they should be fully welded na like designa's are..

as for being fully welded creating built up stress, it all depends how there welded and if the welder is'nt a carp welder and he knows what he's doing, and if there was any build up of stress through welding (which a good manufacturer would make sure of) the temp that galv takes the chassis upto its more or less lost anyway.

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