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Good Evening!

As a new Defender owner (N reg 300tdi 90, 6 days ownership) can anyone point me to a good starting point for getting to know what does what? Particularly, with leaking oil; I want to ask the dealer/garage if the amount of (engine) oil abseiling from underneath is normal? I know a certain amount is inevitable, but there seems to be more than a little (but then I've never owned a LR) it's collecting on some components of the steering mechanism and I want to know what those bits are and what they do. My manual hasn't arrived from Amazon yet unfortunately!

Cheers

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Welcome to LR4x4 :D

you don't have to wait for the post to arrive, just go here & download a .pdf version to your PC.

excessive oil leaks aren't normal on any LR,

also please read the pinned info at the top of the forum thread list above & what part of the UK are you in, there maybe another forumeer who lives close by & maybe willing to assist.

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to quote an old timer.....if it stops leaking oil its time to put some in

or its your landys way of self preservation instead of waxoyl

seriously though some oil leaks are normal on this age of vehicle.ist stop should be a 4x4 specialist garage for a proper once over and then you can start spending money on all the bits in the magazines

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I guess that's what I'm wondering; I bought it from a reputable independent, who have been brilliant; it's all part of the 'getting to know it' experience! I'll give them a call and send some pics after Christmas. Can't say I was ever bothered with our Peugeot 206, but that's the reason for going LR, so I can get a bit more hand on and dirty!

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You are quite correct in your quest to get a workshop manual as a thorough read of one of these will give you a real insight to what is what and its function. While you are at it you would do well to find an owners manual (if you don't already have one) as they contain more than just what switch does what.

There is no reason to live with any oil leak, yes a LR can be prone to leaks especially as it gets older as there are just so many places for leaks to develop but most times just a small amount of maintenence will make it completely oil-tight. Certainly my 1986 90 does not mark its territory and when it did, I made sure I attended to the fault as soon as I had a chance.

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If engine oil is leaking onto the steering gear, then I would assume it's coming from the front of the engine - inside the timing case and therefore the crank seal (most likely), or the cam seal. If this is where the oil is coming from then the oil might also be contaminating the timing belt, which will weaken because of it and then break. On the front of the engine there is an alloy cover, and on the bottom (viewed from underneath), there should be a threaded hole called the wading plug hole. If the oil is coming out of there then you need to get it sorted as soon as possible.

Les.

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The classic steering gear leak for any coil sprung Land Rover is the bottom seal of the Steering box. If the shaft isn't worn, a replacement seal might work. Sometimes half a cup of brake fluid in the reservoir will fix the leak for years. Most peoples experience of replacement seals is that they don't last long and most would suggest a recon steering box as a solution.

Regards,

Diff

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The classic steering gear leak for any coil sprung Land Rover is the bottom seal of the Steering box. If the shaft isn't worn, a replacement seal might work. Sometimes half a cup of brake fluid in the reservoir will fix the leak for years. Most peoples experience of replacement seals is that they don't last long and most would suggest a recon steering box as a solution.

Regards,

Diff

It definitely looks like engine oil on these two parts in the pic here, and as Les posted, it does seem like it's coming from 'higher up' the engine. But what are these parts shown?

post-6103-1198219480_thumb.jpg

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The drip hanging off the steering rod in the top centre of the picture - if it is engine oil then there aren't that many places that far forward that it can be coming from. On the front of the engine it is most likely from inside the timing cover.

There's a slight possibility that it might be originating from the air filter housing (take the filter out and look inside for engine oil). The drivers side end of the radiator has an internal oil cooler (there are two steel pipes that supply and return from the oil filter housing) Oil could leak out of the bottom pipe and end-up on the steering rod. Could also be the sump, although this is unlikely as any oil leaking there goes backwards and drips off the flywheel housing at the rear of the engine.

The rocker gasket may be leaking, but even if this is at the front of the engine - it will go down and backwards and not touch the steering gear. The best way to find where it is coming from is to jet wash the engine and general area and go for a short drive, then look again and the source of the leak will be evident.

Les.

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Definately looks like engine oil! The rod closest to the axle is the Panhard rod. Its job is to stop the axle moving left or right. With that amount of oil, some of it may have got onto the bushes at either end and on to the four radius arm bushes where the two front radius arms connect to the axle. If these are the original black Metalastic rubber bushes, they will go soft and deteriorate quickly. Soft bushes equals dodgy wallowing steering. You may need to replace these once you have found the leak.

The other rod is the drag link and transfers the movement from the drop arm at the bottom of the steering box on the left to the passenger side wheel. This movement is transferred to the other wheel by the trackrod connecting the left and right swivel housings behind the axle.

Hope you find the leak soon!

Regards,

Diff

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The rocker gasket may be leaking, but even if this is at the front of the engine - it will go down and backwards and not touch the steering gear. The best way to find where it is coming from is to jet wash the engine and general area and go for a short drive, then look again and the source of the leak will be evident.

Les.

Cheers chaps, someone else said possibly rocker gasket; bugger; have only had it less than a week! I'll have a closer look over the weekend. I thought it was part of the 'experience'!

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I think main dealerships are doing free vehicle health checks on all vehicles, you should ask at your local one and see if they do it, they will be very thorough (as I found out last week and now need to spend a little bit of money). If an independant is your prefered choice, they should really check out any problems for free if you've only bought it from them 6 days ago.

I'm from somerset but probably know less than you on the mechanical side, but if you know of any good off roading sites around... :lol:

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To download the workshop manual for your Defender 300tdi use this url:

http://www.bestsharing.com/files/zUyE23210...ld970e.pdf.html

It will ask for a password. It is defender all in lower case.

Cheers Jim, that's great! Now, apart from a few oil drips; the heater doesn't work at all; I drove from the West Midlands to Somerset (120 miles) and it didn't warm up a jot; now I know they're not renowned for their sauna-like qualities, but I'd expect a bit more; is there a way of improving their performance in any way? Any maintenance a newbie like me can carry out? I've searched the archive but can't find much.

Cheers

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The coolant goes through the heater radiator all the time. It is important to check that the cables that switch the 'heater' on and off are adjusted properly. If not right, you will either get hot air when you don't want it or no hot air at all.

It is also possible that you have an air lock. Top up the coolant as per the workshop manual and you can't go wrong.

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Where does the temp gauge sit? If it's lower than about half way or if it fluctuates depending on outside temperature (not that you're likely to notice that at the moment) then your thermostat is probably shafted - easy and very cheap fix.

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Where does the temp gauge sit? If it's lower than about half way or if it fluctuates depending on outside temperature (not that you're likely to notice that at the moment) then your thermostat is probably shafted - easy and very cheap fix.

It seems to get up to temp fine and sits half-way without shifting, as it should I reckon. Seems like 'low' heater fan setting doesn't work at all and 'high' just redistributes the freezing air to those parts of me person that have taken it on themselves to try and warm up using innate mammalian skills. I've got to go to South Wales on Xmas Eve; I might arrive looking like a very-pleased-with-himself Smurf!

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if the fani s only blowing on one speed the resistor has problably gone.it is an easy job to fix.

even easier is to take the heater hoses off and reverse flush the matrix and the main rad as well and top up with he correct level of antifreeze at same time

if you want more heat there is an uprated heater matrix which fits in original spot and puts out lots more heat,bit of a fiddle to fit and not cheap but a good long term buy if you plan on keeping the motor

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