landrover598 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Has anyone made a fuel tank to go on a landy, any advice on how to make one ? A custom alli one is way out of my budget Am i right in thinking that 4 galons will be enough for a single days trialing / winch challenging with a TDi, or would i be safer with something bigger? What guage steel should i use, what about baffles, and what can i use to seal it 100% ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gaza Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Has anyone made a fuel tank to go on a landy, any advice on how to make one ?A custom alli one is way out of my budget Am i right in thinking that 4 galons will be enough for a single days trialing / winch challenging with a TDi, or would i be safer with something bigger? What guage steel should i use, what about baffles, and what can i use to seal it 100% ? On my Rover camper I used a 20l jerry can as the fuel tank for my heaters. I used standard rover pickups ( I think I had to trim one slightly for length ) It wouldn't need any baffles and they are cheap. I just drilled a couple of holes at the top opposite the filler. I didn't need a return so if yours is a diesel you might need 3 , flow return & breather. It would have to go on the back but would take up very little space. Don't know how much fuel you would need during an event though. Gaza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Am i right in thinking that 4 galons will be enough for a single days trialing / winch challenging with a TDi, or would i be safer with something bigger? I could manage a day on a site with a 10 gallon tank in the 90, only just at big site like 7S, so you should be fine with 4 gallon and a deep fat fryer. However unless you're runing a swirl pot beware of running too low on fuel, side slopes etc, baffles primarily help with surge not low fuel levels. I'm not convinced baffles would be required in such a small tank and your intended use, although someone more qualified than me not agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Has anyone made a fuel tank to go on a landy, any advice on how to make one ?A custom alli one is way out of my budget Am i right in thinking that 4 galons will be enough for a single days trialing / winch challenging with a TDi, or would i be safer with something bigger? What guage steel should i use, what about baffles, and what can i use to seal it 100% ? i presume you have aspecific shape in mind? if not, a marine tank might do. i expect it would give you a few choices in size. probably not too expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 What about something cheap and cheerful like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIESEL-OR-PETROL-FUE...1QQcmdZViewItem For the Disco I just took some rough measurements and then trolled Ebay till something suitable came up. I ended up with a tank from a triumph spitfire for a fiver, complete with bling flip top filler! It holds about 8 gallons and was plenty on a full day challenge event and I never got fuel starvation even when running at some crazy angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I am thinking of something tall and thin to go upright behind the rear bulkhead, hopefully this should help with the side slope problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 What guage steel should i use, what about baffles, and what can i use to seal it 100% ? It needn't be thick - series tanks are about as thick as tin foil if I recall. If you go for a tall and thin one, or at least one with a tall and thin bit on the bottom for the fuel pickup, you probably won't need baffles, but they could add rigidity if you go for thin material. Use a tig welder to seal it up without pinholes. If you're paranoid, slap on some tank paint/sealant. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 what about a beer barrel? flippin strong and availabe in a range of tasty sizes. Get a full one and enjoy emptying it, prior to making a little cap with fuel pick up and return line. quite tall and fairly narrow at the bottom so you shouldnt have 'sloshing issues' either. or a gas bottle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG DAN T Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 I used a calor gas bottle (the big 47kg size) cut in half and welded together with a stick welder. This is ideal for me as I wanted to mount it as low as possible and so it is in the standard underseat position with the domed end downwards for strenghth.If anyone else is going to try this a handy tip is that a landrover axle filler bung is the right size to go where the tap was on the bottle and makes an exellent drain plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 have you got Tig Dave? what kinda shape and dimensions and what fittings would you like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 hi I've known people use gas bottles there very good but make shore there open for 2-3 days before getting near it with a welder or gas torch. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 It'll need to be a rectangular shape, to maximise space, I haven't got exact measurements yet. Jez, i don't have a TIG unfortunetly, just mig, (and access to big migs B) ) If i make it from sheet steel, bend a return edge and overlap the seams, can i mig it together myself ? I guess i'll need a lockable sealed filler cap, a feed and return fittings and a breather. Am i right in thinking that the feed and return should come out of the top of the tank ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 You can bend the seams and mig it if you're confident of not getting any pin holes in the bead. Its perfectly do-able, you just have to take a lot of care, its just easier with the tig (for example, you could fuse the inside and run a bead on the outside). You could always pressure test it (low pressure!) afterwards, or just leak test it for a while with something low on viscosity. Fittings are best dipping in from the top in case of problems and to avoid holes in the tank below fuel level which can leak of course. You don't have to worry about how full the tank is if you need to inspect the pipes etc. Cheers, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 ping me over some dims fella, unless you earn ya supper by folding it up and sending it over to be glued? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 not much help but i've used an old fire extinguiser weld a mini neck and locking cap on the top drill and tap the bottom for fittings job done the car i used them on was a freestyle and i had two look here and you'll see http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/altpics/freestyle/index.html mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Interesting Mike I've just had a brainwave whilst tidying out the shed. What if i was to cut the top off a 20L metal jerry can, and weld on a flat plate. I could then put all the fittings on this plate, so my welds will be above the fuel level and would be cheap to do. Any ideas where can i buy a threaded top and neck from ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Interesting Mike I've just had a brainwave whilst tidying out the shed. What if i was to cut the top off a 20L metal jerry can, and weld on a flat plate. I could then put all the fittings on this plate, so my welds will be above the fuel level and would be cheap to do. Any ideas where can i buy a threaded top and neck from ? even if your welds are above the fuel level Dave they've still got to be pinhole free, vapour and sloshing will always find any flaws available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Indeed, they will be pinhole free, but the least welds i have to put in the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jos Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Has anyone made a fuel tank to go on a landy, any advice on how to make one ?A custom alli one is way out of my budget Am i right in thinking that 4 galons will be enough for a single days trialing / winch challenging with a TDi, or would i be safer with something bigger? What guage steel should i use, what about baffles, and what can i use to seal it 100% ? Beer Keg - works for me and a nice retro touch... B) (Bloke who built my truck built it so don't ask me how to...!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integerspin Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 You could just put fittings in the jerry can, put them above the 'water line' and it will be fine. The plastic marine fuel cans are neat, but cost more than a jerry can and some tube fittings.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Matrix Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Early Ford Capri petrol tank might work This is one in the back of a MK1 Escort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 A diy fuel tank is a realy easy job, that you should have no problems with Dave. We used to pressure test them by blocking up all the holes pulling a tyre valve into one of them the submerging it a water filed dustbin then just welding over any holes that bubble. For baffling use foam cubes from rally design, they come in little 2" squares that you just force down the filler neck untill the tank is full they totally stop any sloshing As for size i use a 25 litre tank in the g wagon and i get 2 days competion out of it easlily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Interesting Mike I've just had a brainwave whilst tidying out the shed. What if i was to cut the top off a 20L metal jerry can, and weld on a flat plate. I could then put all the fittings on this plate, so my welds will be above the fuel level and would be cheap to do. Any ideas where can i buy a threaded top and neck from ? you can buy an adapter which fits on the filler neck of a 20 liter jerry which allows you to use it as a tank. They are on ebay. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 To fill any pinholes in your weld, you just need a blow torch and some solder. When i was at college many years ago, I made a fuel tank out of a single sheet rolled and with a soldered grooved seam joint and 2 flanged end caps soldered in place. I think it would have done a good job had it not been a test piece Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 When it comes to running on steep slopes one idea of the top of my head (though I expect somebody has though of it all before) is to have a lift pump on the fuel tank pumping fuel in a low pressure accumulator. When/if the lift pump gets fuel starvation there is still severall minuets worth of fuel stored in the accumulator to get you through a very steep section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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