ThreePointFive Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I am trying to find a good place to fit my recovery points as they had to be moved from their position in front of the chassis rails on the bumper when I fitted the nudge bar. I now need to get them mounted somewhere, so is there any other place on the bumper that they can safely go? I understand that the strongest place would be in line with the chassis rails, so would putting them either side of the outside edge of the bull bar mounts be too flimsy and bend the bumper forwards if it was under load? I also thought about putting them inside the bull bar mounts where the number plate currently is, so it shouldn't be so easily bent, but again, if it's not safe I won't do it. Someone with some experience of how to do these things properly care to share some advice with a complete novice? To show where the points were and now where the bull bar is mounted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 As you rightly say in line with the chassis rails would be the best place- as a second best I would suggest moving them just inside the a bar- if you go outside there is the risk of the ends bending under a really heavy pull. I would suggest it is much less likely that the middle of the bumper will bow out- I would also advise sliding a piece of steel angle or plate inside the bumper and use that to spread the load by bolting the eyes through it as well. A piece that spans the full distance between the chassis rails would be the best but sliding it inside the bumper may be a bit tight...but not impossible At the very least a spreader plate on the inside of the buper behind each recovery ring should be used to prevent the bolts from pulling through the relatively thin steel of the bumper. Shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 JATE rings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 23, 2007 Author Share Posted December 23, 2007 The recovery eyes have plates for the other side of the bumper already, but I think the spreader plate between both chassis is a good idea as well. I've looked at Jate rings but due to the home-made steering guard, I don't think it will be possible to use them as it is right in the way. I could look at steering guards with recovery eyes in them but this is added money I don't have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Can you trim the bottom off the new bullbar to expose the rings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mortus Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 i say just swap back the the other much cooler bull bar. home made steering guard? can you post pictures please im 16 but ive got a fully equipped workshop and loooooads of steel so i intend to build one myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 LR do JATE rings that are machined to fit with a steering guard, IIRC the part number is ZXC9435 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 i say just swap back the the other much cooler bull bar.home made steering guard? can you post pictures please im 16 but ive got a fully equipped workshop and loooooads of steel so i intend to build one myself I definitely won't be going back to the old A bar as I don't like massive amounts of stainless steel or chrome on Land Rovers, just looks a bit wrong in my opinion, and while not to everyone's' taste, I think the new one looks much, much better. I can get pics of the guard, but I will add that I didn't make it and the design is far from ideal as it bolts up through the jacking points so I need to spanner them out before I can jack the vehicle. Western, forgive me but I only just learned what and where a jate ring is and goes. Surely with a steering guard in place, the rope has to go around the side of the guard and would rub on the edge, which can't be good for the rope? I expect I am getting mixed up here though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 I am trying to find a good place to fit my recovery points as they had to be moved from their position in front of the chassis rails on the bumper when I fitted the nudge bar. I now need to get them mounted somewhere, so is there any other place on the bumper that they can safely go? I understand that the strongest place would be in line with the chassis rails, so would putting them either side of the outside edge of the bull bar mounts be too flimsy and bend the bumper forwards if it was under load? I also thought about putting them inside the bull bar mounts where the number plate currently is, so it shouldn't be so easily bent, but again, if it's not safe I won't do it.Someone with some experience of how to do these things properly care to share some advice with a complete novice? To show where the points were and now where the bull bar is mounted: Sorry off the point a bit but what is the air scoop on the bonnet for cooling /air intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 nope, the bridle & jate rings are lower than the chassis bottom face. so shouldn't rub on the guard, the pic below is my front jate rings their bolt uses the same hole as the transporter tiedown eye plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 From that picture I have a suspicion that they would be obstructed completely by the bottom of my guard. I'll take a photo tomorrow and if you could take a look I'd be grateful. It would be good if I can go down the JATE route as they seem to be a good option. Ted, it is for cooling the V8 which tends to get hot when off roading. It, like most of the stuff on my car, was added by a previous owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 the gaurd could be modified to allow you to fit a pair though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alantd Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 I definitely won't be going back to the old A bar as I don't like massive amounts of stainless steel or chrome on Land Rovers, just looks a bit wrong in my opinion, and while not to everyone's' taste, I think the new one looks much, much better. I agree with you - I like the look of your new nudge bar. Did you install it yourself? How stiff are the surrounds for the lights - I was eyeing up one of these recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 I did install it myself, but after a few snapped bumper bolts which took a fair time to get replacements of, (and a fiasco with the courier). If you are going to do it, either WD40 the bolts up everyday for two years in advance or have at least two spare bolts! I bought it from Duckworth parts via ebay, you should hurry as they may not have many more due to the new regulations on selling them. The brackets for fitting lights are basically suited to the Safari 5000s, which I don't have but definitely would like and I had to secure my lights with bolts attached to the grille to stop them from drooping and facing the floor. It is probably do-able with most lights but you do need to make sure their bolts for securing aren't too long and that their mounts are big enough around the central hole in the nudgebar mount to support the light properly. Hope this is clear enough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 I mailed them a few months back to ask same question, they never got back to me, and there are none left on their site so assume they have run out. IMHO they do look nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 Not to go too far off the topic, they look better with lights on, otherwise they can look a bit like a gaping mouth or something, the other picture was taken before I fitted them: I have decided the best way for me to proceed with the recovery points I have is to locate them inside the nudge bar legs with a spreader plate inside the bumper and the additional plates the recovery points used behind the bumper originally. This should have the strength needed. In the future and when funds allow I will probably look for a steering guard with towing eyes. Further pictures of my steering guard will follow when I can upload them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 As you can see the guard sits right in front of where the jate rings would attach. Would they still be useable like this? I thought about bolting the eyes through the guard just under the jacking points, but I think it's too low and would stick out too far to the front, as well as meaning I would have to get a grinder to get rid of the chequer before bolting it on, and find longer bolts as the guard is about 4mm thick I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 if it was mine I'd modify the guard so the outer edges were just inside the inner face of the chassis, then it's still effective for protecting the steering rods & leaves the JATE rings clear & fully accesible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pudock Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 Is there a reason why JATE rings are not longer so they extend past the end of the dumb iron. It seems logical to me, know more shackles jamming against the chassis or groping about under the vehicle in the mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 the size is most likely the optimum for the job, any longer & they would bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streaky Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I had a similar dialema with my 130 and made some 15mm steel plates to fix directly to the chassis. I used he steering arm location bolt and two more 13mm ones. Make a template from cardboard first and then transfer it to steel for cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 27, 2007 Author Share Posted December 27, 2007 That looks like a very neat solution, but I am unable to fabricate anything myself. I am going to try to get some jate rings like those on the first four website which say they're wide enough to go around most steering guards. I can't modify the edges of the guard as the mounts are directly over the bit I would be cutting, and it'd have no strength left. I am also going to fit the recovery points inbetween the chassis rails on the bumper, with their backing plates until I can find a spreader plate to go across them. I think they should be ok, I'll just make sure no one snatch recovers me (I may need the car this weekend for offroading and don't have time to locate a spreader before then). Also I could use a strop on both points and halve the stress on each of them. Long term it will be a guard with some points in it and jate rings to compliment it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Have a look at towing or trailer or caravan places for spreader plates... Even Halfrauds might have some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 29, 2007 Author Share Posted December 29, 2007 I had a look in an autofactors for spreader plates and what they had were steel plates about 10cm wide and 1cm thick, these will only just be wider than my existing plates, would this be a reasonable option or should I be looking for a plate that goes the length of the distance between the chassis legs? I've now fitted the recovery points and it doesn't look too bad. Does anyone know if Devon4x4 has a showroom at their site or if the business is purely internet orders? I could do with some of their shackles and want to save time and postage so could just pop over there. Also they don't seem to do any non-snatch strops, I have heard a lot about snatch/KE ropes and don't want to be messing with something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Not sure if there's a showroom as such, but they may have a display in the garage shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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