Astro_Al Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 So, having been sold a complete dud by a forum member (only kidding fridge! : ) ), I'm thinking of rebuilding my new (to me) V8. Since I'll be losing my engine complete-rebuild virginity, I thought I'd ask whether I'm being an idiot and I should just take it someone for a bottom-end refresher? I want the rebuild to start off with a decent engine. The plan would be to strip it, get the block cleaned, checked and machined if necessary, then rebuild it myself. Any bits I should NOT attempt myself? Tricky bits? seful info / tools? Decent reference materials? Is this a good idea? Parts recommendations - I'll be replacing anything that needs it and maybe bunging a few upgrades in. Where in the South should I get it machined if I need to? It's a 3.9 at the mo BTW... this is a black art to me, so fill me in! Cheers, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 A good selection of AF and Metric Tools would be the first thing, preferably 1/2" drive sockets, means then you don't have to pee around with size-adapters when torquing down items. Good selection of loctite as well is always good (601 retainer, 270 thread lock et cetera) Oh yeah, and a thread gauge to figure whether you have a 3/8 UNF/UNC or a M8 Course bolt when taking stuff out and thinking of replacing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 (edited) Any bits I should NOT attempt myself? Tricky bits? seful info / tools? most stuff you can do if you have the tools. e.g. if you have a valve seat grinder, then you can do the valve seats or if you have a large surface mill you can skim heads. Removing the valve guides is troublesome with risk of damaging the heads; you will be better off to fit inserts into them - torque wrench - a big F.O. puller to remove the timeing pulley (you can tonk something up to do the job like I did.) - rubber mallet - very handy to shock bolts to undo them. - small 12 point 7 mm (?) spanner for undoing the oil pump bolts. - make yourelf an oil pump priming tool; you can buy these for about £20. - 5/8 inch 6 point impact socket for unding cylc.head bolts; if you are lucky you may get away with the 12 point but if not, you'll round them off! Decent reference materials? Haynes manual, Rimmer brothers parts manual for V8 Is this a good idea? One of the best you've had!!! Parts recommendations - I'll be replacing anything that needs it and maybe bunging a few upgrades in. ebay is a good source plus rimmer/paddocksand craddocks - beware the latter have el cheapo parts thus low quality parts also buy a set of cylinder head bolts - these are meant to be used 3 or 4 times so unless you know how many times they have been done up, you might as well buy new ones - not cheap but a lot less hassle to remove should one snap, and sod's law it will be the last one, maybe 2 unc taps to clean out the threaed holes in the block for the head bolts and for the exhaust manifold bolts. Where in the South should I get it machined if I need to? machine what? grind crank, skim heads, bores?? It's a 3.9 at the mo BTW... this is a black art to me, so fill me in! aren't these reknown for having slipped cylinder liners? check this as to replace them is very expensive i.e. better off starting with another good block. there is probably a load more I could add but don't have the will or the time; if you have sepcifics, I am sure someone on here will help out. Edited November 16, 2005 by 02GF74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 Eeeeeerrr.... It's not that cracked block that Fridge nicked out of me back garden is it? I was gonna use that as a wine rack!! I've done a couple of V8's now, it ain't too difficult as long as you work methodically. Mark out on a sheet of carb-y-bordy to put all the bits on. B) Make sure you get all the pistons and conrods round the right way Ok... you may not need to mark out the dipstick as I have done, but it seemed like a prudent measure at the time, just in case I couldn't remember where it went IIRC the Haynes book of Sh**e tells you to put some garden hose over the bearing cap studs on the conrods to stop them touching the crank... hmmm... good plan except I don't know anyone with garden hose that small! All the other bits, I submerged in a bucket of cheap oil Nothing really that complicated about doing it, just remember to put the bolt in the end of the cam before putting the timing cover on while having a chat and a beer with your mate when he comes round to see how you're gettin on!! I had by block reworked at Saunders engineering in Cadnam... they seem to have a good reputation and came recommended to me by several people. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 No Dan, the wine rack is currently occupying an engine-sized space in my chassis for measurement purposes. The one Al's got is that tiny little 3.9, soooo last year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 Hmm, all very suspicious... Dan did that one in your garden have any distinguishing features...? Allegedly, I have the 'compact and bijoux' one (not TINY, thank you Mr Freezer!) from Fridge's ex-landy. Time will tell... Thanks for the info guys. I've decided to bite the bullet and do a little engine building myself. I'll be back with more questions when I'm sitting in my garage in tears surrounded by oily parts, torn Haynes manuals and broken cheap tools. Fridge, it's not 'last year', it's retro. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Al - the one in Dan's garden had been acid-dipped and cleaned, I think that should be enough to tell you it's not the same block yours comes with added fibre... and loam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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