dred90 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Can anyone tell me whether the part circled in red on my arb compressor is available as a seperate part? it appears to have been damaged.. many thanks Ed B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Thats the solenoid valve. They are available separetely. Give Devon 4x4 a ring as they'll have em on the shelf. They're not cheap however IIRC. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top90 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I had a spare one for my car in the shed and never used it. 90 with ARBs now sold. So if you can wait for a few days theres the possibility of a cheaper one... Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 whats wrong with it? if you mean its missing the filter off the top then dont worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomG Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Which part is damaged? The whole solenoid valve (£65ish?) or just the black knurled threaded thing - which is just a fancy nut which holds the electromagnet down on the base of the pipe. In which case could probably be replaced with a nut & large washer. Probably some imperial thread though. Here's the part's list for the valve: http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-07.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dred90 Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Which part is damaged?The whole solenoid valve (£65ish?) or just the black knurled threaded thing - which is just a fancy nut which holds the electromagnet down on the base of the pipe. In which case could probably be replaced with a nut & large washer. Probably some imperial thread though. Here's the part's list for the valve: http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-07.pdf Hi Tom it would indeed be the black knurled thing thats the problem or whatever screwed into it before, am i right in thinking i can put any suitable bolt in there and it will do the job? Rich thanks for the offer i'll come back to you if a trip down B&Q doesnt come up with something cheers guys Ed B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Ed - if its the bit the screwed in to the top of the black knurled nut thing then you dont need it, its just a muffler to reduce the noise of the air coming out when you disengage the lockers, if your worried about stuff going in the top just put a through bolt in there, you would have to be pretty unlucky to get something down it its quite small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 IIRC, the knurled bit does very little. A small cable tie tied round the thread would have much the same effect. When the coil is energized it pull onto the tube, not off it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomG Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Hi Tom it would indeed be the black knurled thing thats the problem or whatever screwed into it before, am i right in thinking i can put any suitable bolt in there and it will do the job?Rich thanks for the offer i'll come back to you if a trip down B&Q doesnt come up with something cheers guys Ed B Don't put a bolt in the hole as it will block the exhaust of the valve (where the air comes out when you disengage a locker) A nut and a washer will replace part (2) in the PDF. Make sure the coil is securely held on the shaft, apparently powering the coil when it's not on the shaft causes it to burn out.. Haven't tried this and don't intend to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dred90 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Don't put a bolt in the hole as it will block the exhaust of the valve (where the air comes out when you disengage a locker)A nut and a washer will replace part (2) in the PDF. Make sure the coil is securely held on the shaft, apparently powering the coil when it's not on the shaft causes it to burn out.. Haven't tried this and don't intend to It appears the coil (04) has become dislodged from the valve body (09) at some point and now air is comig through the top nut when the compressor engages which suggests that perhaps the valve stem or plunger have gone awol maybe i will have to get the complete solenoid valve after all.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 The innards cannot go AWOL, they are trapped inside. If you remove the coil and the two small screws under it you can get the plunger out and remove the foreign matter that is trapped in there causing the leak. The foreign matter is MOST unlikely to have entered through the exposed exhaust port. Most likely is some stray PTFE tape from assembly. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dred90 Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 The innards cannot go AWOL, they are trapped inside. If you remove the coil and the two small screws under it you can get the plunger out and remove the foreign matter that is trapped in there causing the leak. The foreign matter is MOST unlikely to have entered through the exposed exhaust port. Most likely is some stray PTFE tape from assembly.Chris cheers Chris i'll give that a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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