Shackleton Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Like if I just wanted a RRC axle to freewheel indefinately and like for the wheels not to fall off what could I safely take off to make it as light as possible. Diff? shafts? I wanted to use a pair for a trailer but obviously want them to be as light as possible so I thought I could pull the diff nose and replace it with just a front cover. Is that doable? Oh and there's a very good reason why I'd use LR axles over something lighter / more suitable. Oh and I presume there's some law that says I have to have a mechanical brake on a trailer? Is that possible using stock RRC calipers in any way shape or form? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Got to ask why? but. I see no reason why the bearings wouldn't hold out provided the axle was full of oil, so diff and shafts could be removed provided all the holes were blocked up. A lot of trailer over run brake systems are hydraulic so it should be possible to mate up a standard trailer brake sytem to RRC axle calipers, may take some fiddling to get the specs right but I am sut]re it should be possible. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 No problem at all, I'd use grease in the wheel bearings to save filling an empty axle case with oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Oh and I presume there's some law that says I have to have a mechanical brake on a trailer? Yes. Any trailer over 750kg gross needs brakes. Is that possible using stock RRC calipers in any way shape or form? No. You need to have a mechanical, not hydraulic, handbrake. You will also need to make the trailer brakes not work in reverse so that you can reverse without having to deploy any manual locking system. Apparently this can be done with a solenoid in the brake line but I am not certain of this. As for axles, you would be better off getting some heavy tube and welding the flanges cut off an axle to them so that you can bolt up RR stub axles. This would also give you the chance to mount some car calipers with a cable operated handbrake mechanism. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Those regulations apply to new trailers. You could always repair an old trailer by replacing the axles, chassis and box. You only need brakes if the total weight (load & trailer) exceeds 750 Kg. Stopping the brakes operating in reverse is done by a fancy mechanism in the hubs. Some people just use twin leading shoe brakes as they are less effective in reverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 same as GB mud says.... weld some hubs onto a piece of tubing. or get hold of a knackered sankey and take the axle off of that, they have LR wheel hubs on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 LOL at rbarton Come with me now on a journey through time and space... Imagine if you will your garden variety RRC. But with no engine, gearbox, exhaust, front brakes, gearbox cross member, fuel tank - in essence everything that can be unbolted or cut off - unbolted or cut off. Then imagine it has it's roof extended out over where the bonnet should be and instead of a front end a nice rounded sheet of alu. Then imagine all the seats taken out and the transmission tunnell has been cut out and the floor levelled, in fact imagine lock boxes and storage sunk in the floor between the chassis rails. Now imagine some enterprising youg fella has taken a second RRC rear axle and had an A frame and off road hitch welded to it and then taken the lot to his local agri trailer builder to have the axle modified so it will swivel from it's centre. Bolt that to the front of the RRC chassis and hey presto a 4 wheeled offroad caravan that can go anywhere your matching colour RRC can tow it So come on, lets hear the devils advocates The brakes would take some had scratching but otherwise I'm excited. I could put a little baby fuel cell in there and have a webasto heater for hot water and air. I was also thinking there must be a way of rigging a largish alternator so that when she's being towed she'll charge a battery or two. Is it crazy talk to put a small alternator inside a diff casing. Am I getting ambitious now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 .... Is it crazy talk to put a small alternator inside a diff casing. Am I getting ambitious now Welcome to the world of the Landy Loony, a small select band of geniusses. I've seen the back end of a minivan fitted with an A-frame. I think the biggest problem with a centre swivelled axle would be jack-kifing on overrun. You'd be exempt from the regulations if you painted it like a Gypsy caravan, fitted a chimney and had a woodburning stove inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 You'd be exempt from the regulations if you painted it like a Gypsy caravan, fitted a chimney and had a woodburning stove inside. You're hired A Range Rover pulling a Barrel Top! There's a paradox... Now I don't have a clue, but I would have thought that she'd be pretty well behaved / balanced with regards jack knifing? Remember I'm saying I don't have a clue But sure you'd have to adopt a very, hmm lets say 'accomodating' driving style while towing anyway wouldn't you. If someone locks up in front in an emergency then maybe she'd jack knife anyway but otherwise wouldn't it be safe. I want speculation, mathematical equating and subsequent definitave answers NOW EDIT: Lads I should have said, thats all deadly info, thanks! FF, sure couldn't I take the flanges off the end of the axle tubes, weld in seals, bolt it all back together and then only have to filly the swivels / axle tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I wouldn't bother with the centre pivot front axle. For steering, you want a drawbar pivoted in the centre of the front axle and a drag link from the drawbar to the swivel housing (same arrangement as with the steering box). Over-run coupling on the drawbar linked into the brakes. Fit any style of body you like onto the RR chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 What Dave said ^^^ the front axle already has steering, why reinvent the wheel? I reckon an alternator driven by a diff could work although by the time you've fitted the halfshafts and diff in just to get a bit of 12v you may as well split-charge it from the car and save the weight / complexity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 I did consider that idea of using the original setup but I didn't think it would work. Wouldn't the resulting triangulation inhibit enough movement in the drag link to steer the wheels even if the drawbar was pivoted? Plus I thought the authorities would have something to say about it, no? Point taken RE the split charging, seeing the wood for the trees isn't always easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I did consider that idea of using the original setup but I didn't think it would work. Wouldn't the resulting triangulation inhibit enough movement in the drag link to steer the wheels even if the drawbar was pivoted? Plus I thought the authorities would have something to say about it, no? Take a look at commercial semi-trailers that don't have close coupled axles. The front axle has Ackerman steering. Another off the wall thought for your melting pot - provide 12V power from the tow vehicle and use the ABS system on the RR to run the brakes. ABS pump & ECU require 12V, you just need to rig a link (Bowden cable?) from the over-run coupling to the ABS master cylinder assembly (or even couple it to the tow vehicle brake system). The risk of jack knifing should be much reduced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Sexy! Thanks Dave, off I go to Google... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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