Fatboy Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 My Series gearbox is progressing and I've fitted new bearings / seals / gaskets in most of the relevant areas. Next, I've got to rebuild the main and layshafts but am a bit stuck on how to remove the bearing track from the back of the mainbox. The manual says to fill it with thick oil and get a piece of wood which is a snug fit, put it over the track and give it a sharp belt, the theory being that the oil in its attempt to escape will shove the bearing out.. I don't have a puller which will get to it, anybody else have a cunning plan? Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Warm the casting round the bearing and hit the face of box near the bearing with a rubber hammer in such a way to knock it away from the bearing. The theorey is that the inertia of the bearing will cause it to work its way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 You can remove one of the tracks quite easily - the front one. Remove the circlip and knock the shaft forwards so that the bearing pushes the track out. The rear track can't be knocked out this way due to the gear that is held in place on the shaft. Knocking it out from inside is a bit risky as the alloy can easily be damaged. Once the front track is out, then the shaft can move back away from the remaining one and maybe put something in there so the shaft can once again be used to push it out. A small puller is quite cheap and is less likely to cause any damage. Once the tracks are out, you still can't remove the shaft assembly until you remove the bearing roller assembly at the rear - there's a second circlip covered by it which needs to be removed so that the shaft can then be pulled out - letting the two gears drop inside the casing. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 You seem to have discounted the thick oil/grease and piece of wood without trying it. It really is a quite common and well founded process for this sort of problem. Works really well on spigot bearings in flywheels. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris24020 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 You seem to have discounted the thick oil/grease and piece of wood without trying it.It really is a quite common and well founded process for this sort of problem. Works really well on spigot bearings in flywheels. Steve I agree as long as the wood or drift is a good snug fit not tight it will work a treat think hydraulic ram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Les he is talking main box not transfer. I would just stand the main casing on the end of the bellhousing bolts, remove the circlip around the mainshaft bearing housing and heat the casing rear with a blowlamp and the bearings will fall out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris24020 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I agree as long as the wood / drift is a good snug fit not tight it should work quite well i use greese as a rule think hydraulic ram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Les he is talking main box not transfer Thanks Phil - yet another senior moment Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 I am indeed talking layshaft bearing in the back of the main box and suppose I had dismissed the thick oil and piece of wood without trying. However, I'll make a drift up tomorrow and give it a blast. The main reason I couldn't see it working is because the track is stepped towards the rear (L profile) so I couldn't see there being much of a hydraulic hammer with such a small volume.. If that doesn't work, it will be blowtorch time.. Thanks for the replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race. When it cools the bearing will be smaller and fall out. Protect the surrounding area with a coating of grease. Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Success!! I couldn't use the wood trick because the reverse gear is still in location and I it impinges slightly... I was not too keen to weld right round the track because it may not have come out and it would still be tricky to get to. So, I cut a piece of flat bar to fit inside the race, drilled a hole through it then welded a nut over it. Once I'd welded the plate to the race I spun an M10 bolt down and gently tightened it so it jacked the race out. If it had been snug, I was going to use a long stud and bar across the top to pull it out just to avoid the danger of punching the alloy through the back of the bearing housing. I realise a photo would probably make it easier to understand but my welding was horrendous ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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