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P38a clutch part2

Exmoor Beast

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Consider how long it was since the last clutch change, therefore how long till the next one, in normal circumstances.

Buy a clutch anyway from your slave cylinder stockists, and don't forget the roll pins I mentioned earlier.

Remove gearbox with T Case. Remove remains of old roll pins and fix fork to shaft with the new ones, change clutch while you have the box off. Replace box and slave cylinder, bleed clutch hydraulics, test and enjoy.

Incidentally, mine had 137k miles on the clock, and was about halfway through it's third clutch, I has also paid for the two replacements. With the replacement of the slave cylinder the clutch operation is 'much' better than it has ever been before. I hadn't guessed I had a slave cylinder problem, and it's an expensive way to find out the problem and cure.

How many miles on your car / clutch? I understand the car is new to you, so may not know the answer re clutch life.

Tough luck

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I am guessing but that looks like 50k for a clutch, is yours the diesel or the 4.6, I've forgotten? What went with the clutch, friction plate or springs?

Reason I am asking is I have a 4.6 that I intend to put in my project, I want to put it on the road with the LT77/LT230 and existing 3.9 and change the engine later. I have not made up my mind to see what can be done with the LT77 to take the extra power & torque, whether to put in a ZF HF44 (if it can be upgraded) or see if the higher rated P38 ZF can be adapted to manual controls rather than the ECU.

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Mines the Diesel, if memory serves (check the workshop manuals) the Diesel Clutch is larger than the Petrol Clutch.

What went? It slipped. Cue buying a clutch kit which includes friction plate, cover, and release bearing.

I'm pretty sure each componant is available seperately, but it's a case of how often do you like to remove the gearbox and TC.

50k is a reasonable estimate, the original was longer, but I put up with it slipping when on maximum torque. Subsequently I realised it's just putting off the inevitable, and what's the point in driving a crippled vehicle, so when I detect slip, the clutch is changed.

I thought, and still think, that 50k is too low, but others point to the vehicle weight and say it isn't so bad. I'm not convinced, but neither am I so convinced that I've looked seriously for an alternative to the standard. Again, I've had conflicting advice, but haven't met anyone who has used a paddle clutch in a 2.5 ton car on tarmac and in traffic (ie no wheelspin).

Now I've got the new slave cylinder, and realised how bad the old one was, I'm interested to find out if clutch life is extended. Come back in 30 to 36 months. I'm convinced that with the old slave cylinder the clutch wasn't being released at the same rate I released the pedal, thus the clutch was slipping slightly more than I thought on every change. The effect, if not the cause, was particularly noticable when starting from rest.

I've yet to try the difference in low ratio.

If I'm expected to comment on your choice of box and TC, I can't, as I have no experience of any Land Rover but my own.

Cheers, and good luck.

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If I'm expected to comment on your choice of box and TC, I can't, as I have no experience of any Land Rover but my own.

Cheers, and good luck.

No I wasn't expecting a magic pill ;) just some background for the questions.

The BM is a pretty torquey engine but as you say the "fault" might have been elsewhere, thanks for the info.

I hope yours does Will, sorry for the blatant hijack :o

Edited by Niall_CSK
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"the damn thing had a new clutch 5000 miles ago,"

That's saved you a couple of hundred ponds, because it will be fit for re-use.

Mine was halfway through it's expected life span, so I had a new one fitted, but retained the old one.

Now I've seen the old one, and found a fault has been cleared which I hope will extend clutch life, the old one will be refitted in 3 years, or even 4 years, if I'm right.

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Of course you don't know how the previous owner drove it - if he rode the clutch or held it on it in traffic it might have done well to get that far...

After looking through the service history the clutch fitted with the new engine (by Land-Rover) lasted only 40,000miles! a new clutch was fitted 4000miles ago at a cost of £515!

I asked our main dealer for a quote (for a laugh) and they said it would be £646 minimum as they usually needed to fit new exhaust downpipes and complete exhaust gaskets to refit the engine! I would be lucky to get change from £1000 by the sound of it! Not bad wages for 6 hours work.

I don't use Devon4x4 for anything but they still squeezed me in on Monday as its needed for some serious towing next week and the price is not at all bad in my opinion.

Will :)

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This reads to me that they have mixed up a petrol engine with a diesel engine.

Whereas the petrol V8 has two downpipes, the straight 6 diesel only has one.

Moreover the joint between the pipe work and the turbo charger is flexible, held in place but allowed to move by two long coil springs on the studs. Thus there is no difficulty splitting the joint.

NOTE, and check this after the work has been completed, these springs should NOT be coil bound. The torque setting for the nuts is low. Basically the nuts are tightned until a few threads of the stud show through the nut, and that's enough. The nuts don't have to be 'new' every time.

" a new clutch was fitted 4000 miles ago at a cost of £515!"

Your clutch hasn't failed, in the normal sense. It isn't worn out. At 4000 miles old I'd plan on reinstalling the same cover, friction plate, and release bearing, although there must be a check that a fault in these componants hasn't precipitated the roll pin failure.

£515.00 is a reasonable cost

" needed for some serious towing next week"

How serious?

Have you done similar towing with this car in the past?

Do watch your engine temperature gauge, and if it starts to rise significantly remember that the quickest way to draw heat from the coolant is to raise the temperature setting on the Climate Control, turn the fans to maximum, and open the trailing edge of the sunshine roof (or top of door windows if no sunshine roof). Direct the air to the windscreen to keep yourself comfortable. Keep the engine running, and preferably keep the car moving, just drop your speed.

Don't expect the electric fans to operate, they aren't intended to cope with engine heat in the Diesel, and compared to the actions I've suggested, they are ineffective in this role.


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