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Suspension lift and MoT regs!!??


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  • 1 month later...

i've got a 3,5" bodylift in addition to a 2" spring lift. for the bodylift i needed to do the following:

*spacers

*longer screws

*spacer in the steering colum. that is necessary, otherwise, the steering colum will pull out of its bearing in the bulkhead

*box sections, where the body lays on the chassis, just in front if the fuel tank

*longer tiedowns (fixing of the rear seat belts)

* piece of aluminium to cover the gap between cooler and cowl

* automatic gear box lever, no change needed

* transfer gearbox lever --> lengthen

* change rear / front bumper

* change hd sills

some work, if you do it properly.

advantage is that you now have space for additional fuel tanks. got 43 l each in two sill tanks + an additional 40 l in a square tank on top of the original fuel tank, makes 200 l altogether when i fill her up ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
i've got a 3,5" bodylift in addition to a 2" spring lift. for the bodylift i needed to do the following:

*spacer in the steering colum. that is necessary, otherwise, the steering colum will pull out of its bearing in the bulkhead

I have a 2" body lift and was thinking of going higher,but was worried about the steering so can I ask where did you get the spacer from or was it home made? any pics

Cheers

Wolfie

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Surely it can't just be as simple as that? :unsure:

1) Unbolt body

2) Jack it up at the front

3) Put spacers in

4) Jack it up at the back

5) Put spacers in

6) Wiggle the steering wheel and tighten up the steering column.

Surely if it was that simple, everyone would be doing it to be able to get a set of 235/85 or 265/70 tyres on?

Confused now :huh:

Not quite, with a 2" body lift you need to - lenghten all brake lines, extend body/ chassis mounts, re mount rad so it either sits back in line with the fan or chop the shroud tp fit, extend transfer lever and open up the hole in the tunnel for the extra movement required, auto shifter is mounted to floor so no mods needed, extend seatbelt chassis mounts, steering as above slacken wiggle do back up, check any wiring/fuel lines that may get stretched. There will be more i cant think of at the moment. You need longer bolts obviously and a good time to fit new body rubbers in.

The 2" spring lift+ 2 "b/lift is a common combo for rangies down here

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  • 1 month later...

I had them on mine before upgrading to +3"s and +2" blocks.

They do make for a choppy ride though. Will cause CDs to skip and jarring offroad. :blink:

They were designed for the police for motorway use to help with the payload and high speed manouvers.

Not ideal off road. :blink:

If you just want a lift then blocks will be your cheapest route.

Remeber though that these only lift the vehicle and not the diffs and also that your rear shocks will be stretched by the size of the block limiting your droop travel.

lowered shock mounts or extenders will get over this but generally at cost !

There are loads of people making blocks and droped mounts etc. do your homework on these as some are better than others. :ph34r:

As long as blocks etc are securely bolted in then you should have no probs at MOT time.

I made a set for an old rangie I had (grunter has it now) :)

I welded 50mm box section into the cups as this means they cant fall out. You could weld them to another set of spring cups as they would locate over the axle then and be held by weight even if a bolt did fail. I would use nuts underneath rather than the original threaded section (captive nut) and go up one size for extra strength. I now have a set of ally ones machined to fit snugly in the cups. B)

If you go the 50mm box route cut the ends to suit the cup rather than straight. Easily done with template made from card. This gives a slightly bigger base on the axle. :D

A body lift is a cheap way to get bigger tyres on without upsetting the suspension geometry but involves a bit more than half a dozen spacers ! You need to support the rear floor and extend the seatbelt ties (if fitted) . You also need longer brake lines , sort the steering link and possibly extend the gear,hi/low selectorsand possibly the opening for them. You will need to extend the bumper mounts and fuel lines/wiring to chassis mounted items.

Body lifts generally are harder (more expensive) to insure than suspension lifts too !

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Mine will be having a 2" bodylift and lift blocks for suspension I can make too.

What I want is a cheapish 1"-11/2" spring lift on the cheap so I can add to it at a later date ie without changeing shocks straight away.

Fabricating is what I do, what I need is cheap solutions for the stuff I can't make.

SG

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a liitle word of warning, don't under estimate what a bugger some of the body mount bolts are to undo. I taken half a dozen RR bodies of the chassis and there's always a couple that are a real git.

On one car it had had new foot wells welded in place, lovely job but there were no holes to get to the top of the bolts (yes you will need to stop the head turning) So that one had the added aggro of having to cut the floor out to get to the bolt heads.

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  • 1 year later...

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