SteveRK Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 We all use the old red oxide paint - but it never lasts that well. In fact over the years this type of product seems to have lost the 'oxide' properties and simply become red paint! I have been using an american paint from Eastwood referred to as a rust encapsulator (?) dont ask me why its called that but it dam well works. URL below to a UK supplier. http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8391 Observations: a) its not cheap - i thought twice originally about buying as it is expensive B) it can be readily thinned with standard thinners - in fact from new it is quite thick so i usually thin 15%. The colour pigment is extremely dense so coverage is excellant. c) coverage and finish is superb - it covers best on top of rusty/rough surfaces d) it bl**dy lasts years - and i mean years e) available in red oxide or black in tins or aerosol f) good heat resistance - can be used on cast iron manifolds g) oil resistant h) once dry provides an excellant matt, even finish ideal as an undercoat or leave as is I have used it on a range of garden and automotive applications for the past 10 years and it stands the test of time better than any paint I have used previously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 How tough is it? Will it stand up to the abused of stones flying at it or scrapes against rocks and hard ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 It is hard but at the end of the day its still only a paint - It can be applied quite thick if you dont thin it. Once cured after a couple of days you cannot rub it off with a pertrol soaked rag. Importanyl it doesnt flake like a lot of paints as it seems to key itself to rough rusty surfaces. Thick old Hammerite type paints can 'lift' if the under surface carries on rustung - This paint stops rust extremely well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101nut Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 I must admit to trying a tin of this stuff and it went on really well ... Having said that I'm not convinced it's actually much better than a couple of coats of really well keyed red oxide or hammerite primer on a rusted surface. In my experience it did not apparently stop existing rust continuing under the paint film. Having said that there is always the quality of preperation question and whether there was trapped moisture or moisture indress from under the film which no normal paint will stop. My current test is with 'Rust Bullet' which is supposed to be the canines love-equipment. So far so good but it's expensive ... give it another year and I'll tell you whether it's bubbling. AndyG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 You have a point. Preperation is always important - if you slap it on top of rust 'bubbles' without cleaning back to a flat surface it will carry on inside the bubble. I have used it on lawn tractors and garden trailors (angle Iron) 10 years ago and its still intact without showing any sings on lifting. It does seem to contain chemicals that stop rust. I'l look out for your preferred paint - sounds interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willfromsussex Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I've been using Rust Bullet too. I got a tin in August so I painted up some pieces of metal in Rust Bullet and a few other paints such as Hammerite, and have left them lying outside as a form of test. Rust Bullet goes on very nice and dries very very hard, (possible concern for chipping off ?) but so far the samples are holding up well after 6 months. I have been painting the inner body structure of the range-trol with this. I also have the 'blackshell' version of it. So far my only gripe is that you have to use two coats, and it's very difficult putting the second coat on, as it is hard to see what's dry paint, and what's wet paint. If they did two variations on the colour, that would be useful. Time will tell how good this stuff is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Rust bullet gives a gloss finish then. The Eastwood paint gives a completely matt finish which is ideal for less than smooth surfaces but not so good if you want it to look smart. At some point i will be tarting up the rear axle and anti roll bar so i might give this Rust bullet a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corgie Carrier Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I know it is a couple of months since the last post but, have you guys tried "POR15" paint system It is a complete paint system, price is reasonable. I will be doing my chassis, diffs and the complete body internal panels with it. You can get it at Frost Try it you'll love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 POR15 is only any good on well rusted steel. Put it on bright steel or over another paint and it comes off in sheets. This is not just my experience,but that of many other forum members. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Bugger! I have just recieved an order from Frost today as that's where i get my 'rust encapsulator' from. Maybe on the next order i have heard POR is good stuff - the rust encapsulator is not toooo bad on clean shiny metal but then most brush applied top coat paints are a bit of a pain to get a good finish without some sort of primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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