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Mondeo Alternator Conversion


minivin
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After looking at the sorryful alternator that came with my 2.5NAD engine, I decided to kick it to one side and do the same as TT Rovers and fit a Mondeo alternator.

As most people know, if you want an official Land Rover 100Amp alternator or something like that you are paying big-bucks, however I don't fancy that as alternators tend to fill with mud and die when you least want them.

The mondeo alternator on the other hand, is 90Amps and as being mass produced can be brought at half the price or for pitance from your local scrap yard with a wreaked mondeo.

£15 later (£12.50 being the P&P!) off ebay, I had a second hand alternator in working order, I initially measured-up the old alternator, figuring out the PCD of the mounting and tension holes and the distance from the pivot to the tensioner et cetera. I then measured up the mondeo alternator, doing the same thing but over-layed the two on a CAD package (AutoCAD 2000) and got the general idea of how it could be done.

The main problem with this conversion is mounting, the land rover alternator unless you have a 200TDi from a Disco or certain Rover V8's, is that the alternator tends to be mounted on the "nearside", while on the mondeo it is mounted on the "offside". This means the tensioner bolt points are 120 degrees "out" from one engine to another.

To get around this I followed the TT Rovers method of a "C" bracket wrapped around the mondeo alternator from the lower engine mounting point, to the original mondeo tensioning hole to mount the plate at it's second point, and then further wrapping around to a point close to that where the original land rover point was for the tensioner blade.

Initially my dimensions came out with some reasonably round numbers from a common datum, but a discussion with my Chief Project Designer at work pointed it out that actually all these holes are spaced at 120 degrees due to most alternators having three bolts so that the case may be removed on one side, rotated 120 degrees and then bolted back-up, thereby giving you your left-to-right-hand engine conversion.

After some quick changes, I came up with the following design:

PDF CAD Drawing

I then got on to my friend today to see if he had any material, but only 1/4" alloy was available, oh well that'll have to do!, so I knocked it up as follows at his company workshops:

DSCF1680.jpg

SEB engineering in Fordingbridge, Hants also helped by lending me their bandsaw to cut the item out initially.

After two 10mmOD/8mmID spacers were made to fill the lower mounts (as the Series uses 5/16" UNF bolts, while the mondeo used M10 bolts), I had the following:

DSCF1681.jpg

should have it fitted Sunday to see about the tensioner blade being right et cetera ;)

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Nice :)

My Alternator on my EFi has been "bodged" on by welding up a "Brackett" and this sits mid way up on the N/S.

This may be an Ideal time to change it :) (After the snow ;) )

dunno how the snow was 1000 yards on your side of the valley but it didn't stop me riding the BMW to work ;) pop in and I'll show you the latest!

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Very nice job indeed!

I have that exact same alternator on my 200Tdi.

I'm sure you'll be sick to hear that the only mod I had to do was to shave about 4mm from one of the mounting tabs!

he he, but there's a certain pleasure with fettling alloy ;) would that be the Disco engine?

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Rob,

if u'd taken a bit more of a better look how i fitted mine then u would rotate your bracket through 120 degrees, at the moment u have your tensioner hole hanging in mid air, rotate it by 120 degrees and it would be supported from either side ;)

also i bored out the alternator mount and used M10 bolts to mount the alternator, says pouncin around with spacer tubes.

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Rob,

if u'd taken a bit more of a better look how i fitted mine then u would rotate your bracket through 120 degrees, at the moment u have your tensioner hole hanging in mid air, rotate it by 120 degrees and it would be supported from either side ;)

also i bored out the alternator mount and used M10 bolts to mount the alternator, says pouncin around with spacer tubes.

you got me confused on the first one as the tensioner point is in mid air due to the lack of a bracket on the alt, rotating the C ring 120 would move the lower "pivot mount" of the C ring to being in the same place as the "loose point" is at the moment :unsure: if you mean the main case of the alternator, Bosch decided to have four bolts instead of the usual three bolts so it can only be rotated 90 degrees

yeah, couldn't be ar$ed to remove the bracket ;)

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if u're lookin at the alternator from the front, rotate it 120 degree anti clockwise, this would mean the tensioner would be in the same place as it is now but the C bracket will be bolted on on each end thus giving more support to the tensioner hole.

wot grade ali did u use? too soft and it will bend

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aren't these like the lucas type where the alternator is made up of 2 parts that have the lugs - casting at front and the rear? They are held by long thin bolts. Apparently by undoing and removing the bolts, then rotating the front relative to the rear you can get the lugs to allow fitting to left and right hand sides of the engine. Not done it myself but it kinda makes sense - one alternator case fits all as opposed to making left and right handed cases (but then we are talking about lucas :lol: )

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aren't these like the lucas type where the alternator is made up of 2 parts that have the lugs - casting at front and the rear? They are held by long thin bolts. Apparently by undoing and removing the bolts, then rotating the front relative to the rear you can get the lugs to allow fitting to left and right hand sides of the engine. Not done it myself but it kinda makes sense - one alternator case fits all as opposed to making left and right handed cases (but then we are talking about lucas :lol: )

unfortunately as said above, these one's are four bolts so when you try to turn it the required 120 degrees, you can only turn it 90 or 180 degrees and the lugs go all pi$$ed ;)

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if u're lookin at the alternator from the front, rotate it 120 degree anti clockwise, this would mean the tensioner would be in the same place as it is now but the C bracket will be bolted on on each end thus giving more support to the tensioner hole.

wot grade ali did u use? too soft and it will bend

only problem if I did that is that I would no longer have a lower pivot mount for the back as it would be 120 degrees anti clockwise in the wrong place as viewed from the front.

Have started to check the Lucas part numbers for other V8 lumps et cetera which may be more easier to convert in future ;) found a nice company in the UK who's website when you do a search on Lucas or Bosch part numbers tells you which vehicles have them and what the other manufacturers or OEM part numbers are. Also tells you current et cetera!

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