Series Discs

[jimfoo]

Point 1 - yes, point 2 - yes

The rest is a choice, discs and calipers, tonk can answer better as his brackets are simpler so they might suit your quest better. What i can tell you from my experiance is that a flat bracket will work with a lower hat area for the disc and smaller calipers or sliding calipers, using rover calipers will need 1" spacers at the hub/wheel.

Grem

So then since I have wheels that sit 1" further out than stock wheels, Rangie calipers would work? I am soon going to have a spare pair off of an '87, but they are the fronts. Are the fronts much if any larger than the rear calipers? I need extra stopping power since I have extra horsepower. I currently have 110 rear drums up front, so I could either move them to the back or put discs on back as well.

[Gremlin]

So then since I have wheels that sit 1" further out than stock wheels, Rangie calipers would work? I am soon going to have a spare pair off of an '87, but they are the fronts. Are the fronts much if any larger than the rear calipers? I need extra stopping power since I have extra horsepower. I currently have 110 rear drums up front, so I could either move them to the back or put discs on back as well.

You mean offset or spacers?? Wheel offset does not effect the caliper as the monting face of the wheel is still at the hub, i you do it the way i did rangie calipers should fit with out problems, its according to what disc offset you use. If you use a lower hat area and rover calipers you will defenitly need spacers, or thats what i found out.

Fronts on a rangie or any rover are 4 pot calipers while the rears are 2 pot, so physically the fronts are always larger. Discs at the rear is a bolt on job to be tackled soon.

Being in the US i think you might be better off searching for another caliper other than a rover!

Grem

[CJRH]

Hi there, I've been trying to find a link to the rear disc brake conversion but I can't find one that works, can anyone help?

Cheers

Chris

[NRS91]

Sorry,

UK I believe if you change the chassis for a brand new one of the same type then you retain reg.

Second hand chassis Q reg.

Alter the suspension mounts on the chassis (coiler) Q reg.

There are plenty of SVA threads in this subject on the forum if you want to find out.

Marc.

one of the land rover mags did an article a while back

a 2nd hand chassis to the same spec as original is classed as the same chassis therefore you still got those 5 points

but the suspension mounts are in a grey area but surely if you are changing the suspension the mounts will be different and the rest of the chassis unaltered...mind you everything on the points system requires chassis mount changes unless to the original dimensions...so surely the mounts are classed with the item be it suspension or whatever

[Gremlin]

Hi there, I've been trying to find a link to the rear disc brake conversion but I can't find one that works, can anyone help?

Cheers

Chris

The one i found was for a 110 axle, but its reletively the same process, or similar. Its in the tech section on this board.

Grem

[henrycrabbe]

Any news on those Toyota disks???

I'd love to put disks on my series 2A. I have a stage 1 front axle waiting for it and hopefully a V8 engine to suit

I already have a late series 3 dual circuit servo master cylinder fitted, will that be OK running front disks?

Cheers,

[Gazzar]

Hi Henrycrabbe.

What I suggest is you go down to a good motor factor (ask local mechanics and see where they go).

Ask the parts guy for a copy of the Delphi brake parts book. My Factor gave me one - said they were for customers!

Its about 1000 pages thick, but towards the back there is a disk brake reverse lookup where the dimensions of each brake are set out.

To reuse landrover callipers you need a disk that is about the same diamater (298mm or so).

My research showed a small number of disks with a lower top hat than land rover: a Nissan Patrol, some Porsche and some Toyota Landcruser/Hi lux.

Of course I may be reading the book wrong so what I'm going to do is ask my local mechanic to get a second hand set of disks for me and I'll work from there.

Remember - brakes are serious, eve if you are a land rover brake engineer with access to the full brake testing regime and certification process any modifications you do are unapproved, dangerous and uninsured. Bring it to a main dealer for any safety critical work.

G.

[Tonk]

or look through here

[henrycrabbe]

Thanks for the info, I'll see what I can find.

I work in the automotive manufacturing industry, previously on production line test equipment (wheel alignment & roll test) now on robotic welders etc. so I know the trouble the manufacturers go to (or not ) to get a parts just right. As I see it as long as you use a disk from an equivalent type or weight of vehicle and bolt it to the hub with the right size and type of bolts determined by...

hit wrong button there!

Where's edit - Oh here we go...

...what LR used on the defender etc. then you shouldn't have any problems. That only leaves the caliper choice and the mounting bracket. A bracket made out of 10mm steel plate is going to be stronger than the cast lugs on the RR swivel housing so no problems there & 110 calipers are well up to the job if not a little OTT. I like the simplicity of those willwood calipers, which ones are they?

Thanks again,

(pressing the right buttons but not necessarily in the right order )

[Laroland]

Hello Gremlin; I'm struggling with a conversion kit out of South Africa. Could you please forward the drawing/dimensions of the backplate? wellpath@gmail.com. Thanks: Roland Netherlands

[ejparrott]

or look through here

no longer working...???

[Speeedy6]

Not to pick at your fine job but, shouldn't the brake pipe be steel instead of copper? If copper,you might keep an eye on it if not replacing it.

[Gremlin]

Try here http://www.dba.com.au/2006/catalogue_start.asp thats where i got my references from.

Hi roland, sorry but now the brackets are on and i never bothered to get 100% accurate meausurements, If you follow what i did you will manage your own as well. Ah and find a good machinist who knows what you want!!

Grem

[ejparrott]

got copper brake lines on all our motors, never been an issue for years...

I work in Engineering, Im a Turner by trade, so Easy for me.

Just interested, and it's partly irrelevant...I know you chose the 12 o'clock to get it all to fit, but why do some makers put them at 2, and some at 10???

I'll be fitting 16" mods to my 109 when it goes back on the road, same as my 88, hopefully should have some more room with the bigger rims?

I've got a plan...to use 90/110 front callipers and vented disks...hopefully I'll get started soon, then I'll let you know how i get on. I plan to use 90/110 rear disk stuff, and plump it all the same, hopefully overcoming the braking issues.

[Gremlin]

I doubt you will manage vented discs also, its all a bit of a squeeze as you will soon find out. Using different calipers might help.

G

[Snagger]

Not to pick at your fine job but, shouldn't the brake pipe be steel instead of copper? If copper,you might keep an eye on it if not replacing it.

The US has a bit of paranoia about copper brake pipes. The truth is that though they're more easily damaged than steel pipes, they're also more resistant to corrosion. As long as the pipes are routed with a little thought and given protection where exposed to likely damage, then they will be unlikely to cause problems. I used copper-nickel pipe on my 109, and would not have done so if I had any belief that steel pipe would be safer.

[rusty_wingnut]

need to use the correct vibration loops when making your own copper brake lines, they're there to provide flexibility and decrease the work hardening effect

[ejparrott]

Can somone help...Really struggling to use the Forum search facility to find any posts about retro fitting discs to series rear axle!

[Gremlin]

Can somone help...Really struggling to use the Forum search facility to find any posts about retro fitting discs to series rear axle!

This might be the only post........................

G

[Jon White]

As it says above - search back through my old posts - I posted a how to do series rear disks about 5 years ago.

Jon

[Daan]

I am thinking about merging some series disk stories together for the technical archive when I have a moment.

Hope this is ok with the writers of said threads.

Daan

[ejparrott]

Be excellent for me!! Why do i always get the same 200 posts on the search ???

Going to look through Jon's posts.....

[Gremlin]

Update.............

Just had a hard lesson today on my setup!!

Standard wheels will not fit!! how did i discover it? well the hard way!

Got a puncture this morning on my way to work, stopped at the road side to change it................. jacked up, changed wheel......... the damn thing was jammed up against the caliper................grrrr.................... had to remove a rear wheel, to install it in the front and my standard spare at the rear...........

Lesson learnt............

Standard rover wheels will not fit my front disc conversion...............................

G

[Harald Grimm]

On 2/26/2008 at 7:42 PM, Gazzar said:

I agree with your comments on safety, and am fairly comfortable with building/ reconditioning brake systems, having built a few kit cars, rebuilt a Silver Shadow citroen brake system (uses a Moris Minor master cylinder to give the pedal "feel"!).

I had hoped, admittedly not with much expectation, that a solution that was witin the grasp of a competent home mechanic was possible, however I accept that it isn't likely.

Regarding the rest of the braking system I was expecting to keep the rear drums, and fit a dual circuit servo assisted brake pedal from either a late series, or a defender, whichever I can obtain in the right condition.

The appropriate valve would also be fitted. I'd probably use a later defender master cylinder as it would have the correct diamater front chamber for the smaller amount of fluid a brake calliper displaces compared to a wheel cylinder. I may not, as the larger series master cylinder front chamber would require less brake effort, making the vehicle spouse friendlier.

I do have access to sophisticated brake testing equipment in that the Landrover would be put through a recognised safety test prior to being used in anger. Thus I wasn't asking too many questions on these matters.

but

The difficulty I have is I don't have access to a good engineering shop locally, and thus to entrust components to an unfamiliar workshop would mean that I have to get the specification right and tight beforehand.

In addition I've not got the luxury of lots of LR Brake components kicking about to swap and change in order to optimise the arrangement. I'd have to go out and buy them on the offchance they'd fit. And there aren't that many LR bits around here. Toyota and Nissan are two a penny, but not LR.

Thus asking about which particular components someone else used sucessfully would save me a lot of time and money.

The calliper mounting bracket is potentially the most complex engineering job, if it has to made so that the calipermounts are offset from its mount. If it doesn't have to be then it is a much simpler engineering job. Truing the hub and the disk are simpler jobs, as is tapping the holes.

Finally, if I don't ask questions, then how else can I get answers?

G.

true. one can only learn from asking