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Part of broken inner bearing stuck on stub axle


Philj

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Hi,

One of my front bearings seized up the other day. I have been trying to fit new ones today. After about 2 hours of trying to fit hub assembly on the axle, I have worked out why it won't go on. The inner part of the old inner bearing is stuck on the stub axle:-

Stub_axle_small.jpg

Can this be removed or does this mean shelling out for a new stub axle ?

These are the remains of the bearing

fkd_bearing_small.jpg

Thanks,

Phil

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1. Grind the old track with an angle grinder until a cold chisel can split the remaining metal (wear proper protection). A file won't touch it!

OR

2. If you have an arc or mig welder run a bead of weld round the surface of the old track. When it cools they often just pull off by hand. That's got me out of trouble a time or two.

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The weld tip is good for the outer race in the hub as the weld cools it pulls the track inwards making it slightly smaller and easier to remove.

I would go with the angle grinder and watch the metal when it starts to go blue you are nearly through stop and use the chisel.

Eye protection mega important

Lynall

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I am having no look with the angle grinder - I can't get it at the right angle to create a groove I can exploit with a chisel, without damaging the bearing land or top of the seal land.

I think I am just going to get a new stub axle. Does anyone know what the part number is ? Every where that sells them only seem to have them for the '94 onwards - I have a '92.

Thanks,

Phil

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Don't worry about creating a groove. Just grind a big flat spot our of the bearing race until it separates.

Check the land where the hub seal runs. If this is stil good then its worth trying to save the sub axle. But if it's rough then, yes, forget it and get new.

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Don't worry about creating a groove. Just grind a big flat spot our of the bearing race until it separates.

Check the land where the hub seal runs. If this is stil good then its worth trying to save the sub axle. But if it's rough then, yes, forget it and get new.

I have tried this - I am still worried about damaging the stub axle. Its academic really - if I can't get it off I'll need a new stub axle and if I damage it getting it off I'll need a new stub axle! I might as well just go for it!

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I have tried this - I am still worried about damaging the stub axle. Its academic really - if I can't get it off I'll need a new stub axle and if I damage it getting it off I'll need a new stub axle! I might as well just go for it!

If you are desperate for stub axles, I have a pair off of a 92 RR in the garage. They are from metric hubs and it had ABS, but I don't know if that matters...

Drop me a PM if you are interested, rather than moving away from the official topic subject!!

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Thanks for all the advice - I will have another crack at this at the weekend and let you know how I get on.

I was really worried about damaging the stub axle - despite looking at multiple diagrams, it hadn't quite sunk in that stub axle doesn't actually rotate. I am grinding at the top of the stub axle anyway and the majority of force on the axle will be at the bottom from the wheels pushing back from the road. I think I now understand what it is meant by fully floating half shafts!

Thanks again,

Phil

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just put i new grinding disk on then start from the back of the race to the from and hold the grinder flat and work your way alonguntill u see the center start to blue and get hot and cool very quick then take a chisel and hit alond the area that u have just ground to create a split then hit the race one way so that it starts to rotate on the shaft until u can start to draw it off it does take a while

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