Philj Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 Hi, One of my front bearings seized up the other day. I have been trying to fit new ones today. After about 2 hours of trying to fit hub assembly on the axle, I have worked out why it won't go on. The inner part of the old inner bearing is stuck on the stub axle:- Can this be removed or does this mean shelling out for a new stub axle ? These are the remains of the bearing Thanks, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 1. Grind the old track with an angle grinder until a cold chisel can split the remaining metal (wear proper protection). A file won't touch it! OR 2. If you have an arc or mig welder run a bead of weld round the surface of the old track. When it cools they often just pull off by hand. That's got me out of trouble a time or two. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philj Posted February 16, 2008 Author Share Posted February 16, 2008 Thanks Paintman, will give the angle grinder ago tomorrow - I've had enough for today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 Try and get it to move around the stub axle to before try to get it off. the weld tip is a good one for sure, be careful with any grinder so as not to damage the stub axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynall Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 The weld tip is good for the outer race in the hub as the weld cools it pulls the track inwards making it slightly smaller and easier to remove. I would go with the angle grinder and watch the metal when it starts to go blue you are nearly through stop and use the chisel. Eye protection mega important Lynall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 Welding works on both, although I have more often used it on the problem we have here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philj Posted February 17, 2008 Author Share Posted February 17, 2008 I am having no look with the angle grinder - I can't get it at the right angle to create a groove I can exploit with a chisel, without damaging the bearing land or top of the seal land. I think I am just going to get a new stub axle. Does anyone know what the part number is ? Every where that sells them only seem to have them for the '94 onwards - I have a '92. Thanks, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 Don't worry about creating a groove. Just grind a big flat spot our of the bearing race until it separates. Check the land where the hub seal runs. If this is stil good then its worth trying to save the sub axle. But if it's rough then, yes, forget it and get new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philj Posted February 18, 2008 Author Share Posted February 18, 2008 Don't worry about creating a groove. Just grind a big flat spot our of the bearing race until it separates.Check the land where the hub seal runs. If this is stil good then its worth trying to save the sub axle. But if it's rough then, yes, forget it and get new. I have tried this - I am still worried about damaging the stub axle. Its academic really - if I can't get it off I'll need a new stub axle and if I damage it getting it off I'll need a new stub axle! I might as well just go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Don't damage the seal land. A little damage on the stub if you grind through the race is not a problem. Sorry if you misunderstood that you need to grind the track thin and not try to cut a groove across it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 I have tried this - I am still worried about damaging the stub axle. Its academic really - if I can't get it off I'll need a new stub axle and if I damage it getting it off I'll need a new stub axle! I might as well just go for it! If you are desperate for stub axles, I have a pair off of a 92 RR in the garage. They are from metric hubs and it had ABS, but I don't know if that matters... Drop me a PM if you are interested, rather than moving away from the official topic subject!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philj Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 Thanks for all the advice - I will have another crack at this at the weekend and let you know how I get on. I was really worried about damaging the stub axle - despite looking at multiple diagrams, it hadn't quite sunk in that stub axle doesn't actually rotate. I am grinding at the top of the stub axle anyway and the majority of force on the axle will be at the bottom from the wheels pushing back from the road. I think I now understand what it is meant by fully floating half shafts! Thanks again, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiall Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 just put i new grinding disk on then start from the back of the race to the from and hold the grinder flat and work your way alonguntill u see the center start to blue and get hot and cool very quick then take a chisel and hit alond the area that u have just ground to create a split then hit the race one way so that it starts to rotate on the shaft until u can start to draw it off it does take a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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