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Time to strip and rebuild the 200TDI


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Gents,

The garage is almost now tidy, I have the refurbed axles and bulkhead on the wall looking like a mantlepeice for scrapheap challenge and looking to move onto the next peice in the project.

I bought the defender 200TDi (non running) with all ancillaries (he sais that now) and have an engine stand ready to go.

I was going to just follow Mr Haynes method to strip down, label and photo the dismantle.

However, with all you knowledgefull chaps out there are there any things I should do in a particular order or watch out for?

As always thanks in advance for your advice.

Cheers

G :D

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I picked-up a slightly knackered 200TDi the other day and am about to do the exact same thing. Keep the head seperate from the block, bolt-ons, such as pumps, brackets, etc, timing gear again seperate from the main block. Do one assembly and then move onto the other. A huge pile of bits is quite scary. Loads of pictures and notes where you might think it necessary.

Les.

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When taken to bits, check that the cylinder head is really, really flat. When I had my engine apart, I took the head to the local machinist for a valve job and he insisted in having it skimmed evver so little. Reason is (he said!) is that while a cast iron head might be a little banana shaped it gets straight when bolted down and tightened. An ali head can have both low and high spots spread along its surface which do not change when tightened.

Again, that's what he told me and I couldn't disagree. He's supposed to be the one who knows... :mellow:

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Hi lars,

Thats intersting as I would have thought cast would be stiffer and less likely to warp than alloy?

However getting the head skimmed makes complete sense as you have done.

Obviously good faces on both would be best.

Cheers

Grant

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It can also be a good idea to let some "grown up" check the valves. The distance from the head gasket surface to the valve is supposed to be 0,9-1,1 mm. Mine weren't, so i had them lapped. And he did all of them spot on at exactly 1 mm.

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