Bomag Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 Im using a series 2 master cylinder with series 3 pipes, slave and clutch. All parts are new (the master has less than a 1000miles on it) but since these were installed the 'feel' doesnt start till halfway down the pedals travel though it does disengage Is this because the pipe diameter of the series 3 parts is greater than the series 2 and the s2 master cylinder doesnt move as much fluid? or do both masters move the same amount of fluid? The only thing I have changed during the rebuild is the pipe work, which originally was a solid pipe from the master to the slave, of brake pipe diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 your system should work fine, i run 2a master with ser3 slave. have u put your slave in the right way up? silly question i know but the nipple should be at the top so u can bleed all the air out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 checked that the dip in the realease arm hasn't worn? (not very likely imo) push rod ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomag Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 Will check tonight, though youve got me thinking re the bleed nipple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 I had this when I first filled my new system and bled it, after the first few "pump and shut it off" attempts, we resorted to slightly cracking it off at the nipple, pumping it ten times and then locking it off. What we found was there was a couple places in the system where air locks happily formed and by pumping it ten times you moved the fluid and air enough to move it to the next point of contention, and after a few cycles you got it all out of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 the pipe diameter makes no difference; it is volume pushed by pedal i.e. diameter and stroke of master piston and the same for the slave. bleeding the clutch was a nightmare for me - took absoloutely ages - I've got the bleed screww in the lower position due to having v8. persevere with a friend pressing the pedal until no air bubbles show. have you checked the rod in the pedal box is adjusted properly? ( think this sets the pedal height - see manual for what this should be). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomag Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 The bleed nipple is at the top, as per the manual. Ive checked with haynes, but whats non-hydrosatic and hydrostatic? The pedal height from the floor is different for each one, so it looks like I set it in the middle!!! End play is a bit more than expected, but not excessive. I will try to rebleed, its a V8 conversion, and the pipe has more bends than a mountain pass, so the chances of an air-lock are quite high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 tried a easybleed on it? shouldn't really need it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 tried a easybleed on it? shouldn't really need it though I'd recommend that especially if you want to spray brake fluid everywhere!! Be careful when attempting this as the cap in the E-B kit does not it the metal series clutch master cyclinder, well, not mine it didn't (no prizes what the outcome was) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 (no prizes what the outcome was) a respray? oh, no prizes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 ahh yes, had my first experience my ez bleed kit for the clutch this week. sure can empty a whole bottle of fluid quickly can't it. please tell me it works better for brakes than it does for a defender clutch. I've heard a suggestion of using it dry as it will apply the pressure to still allow you to do it one man, however you need to keep an eye on the fluid when doing it without any back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 never tried it dry, suppose it should work, although as u say would empty reservoir quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomag Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Have tried one, theyre pants, and thats putting it mildly!!! Gave up and went back to old-fashioned method. ive got a mate with a large syringe, he uses this to suck the fluid through which seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 You said you have a SIII clutch - I presume you have a SIII gearbox as well? If you had a IIA box and SIII clutch it shouldn't work at all without a spacer on the throwout sleeve though. The IIA I built for my father has the opposite - a SIII MC, SIIA box and slave, and a SIII 9.5" clutch with a machined spacer on the throwout sleeve on the IIA box. The take-up point is lower than my IIA (all IIA clutch system), but it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomag Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 yep, the box is s3 We isolated the master cylinder last night, and the pedal pressure was the same, so theres no air in the system. Can only finish the repaint etc, then get it to VAM for its rewire and hopefully when the engine is started all will be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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