The Badger Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Adding an OME heavy duty springs / shocks and stearing damper. Just wondering if it is 'nessary' to add cranked radius arms / dislocation cones / new props / adj panhead? Or does this just improve the articulation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 I got similar OME kit on my 110 & haven't fitted any correction arms, it behaves really well & is great on country roads. try it without & go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Not necessary. Agree with Ralph, fit the lift and take it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiFonics Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Not necessary. Agree with Ralph, fit the lift and take it from there. When I first got my 90 with a 2" lift there was so much vibration it was horrible on the motorway. Once I got a Disco 2 Double Cardon front prop fitted it made it like a different vehicle to drive. Cranked arms can make a big difference to road manners but really what you need to do with the lift will depend on your vehicle and you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top90 Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 My older defender (I assume you are talking about the Puma?) took a 2" lift no problems, going anymore though needed the cranked arms, prop etc.. Each one seems to behave a bit different. If you are lifting the Puma will it affect the insurance much? (being a new one and therefore more to insure anyway) Thanks, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I have read somewhere in the web a chap having problems when lifting the 110" Puma. Search under......"2007 Defender lifting.... or so". I agree, seems every Defender behaves randomly. I ahve been at the point to upgrade the suspension, but then I would loose the warranty. ch M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiFonics Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I have read somewhere in the web a chap having problems when lifting the 110" Puma. Search under......"2007 Defender lifting.... or so". I agree, seems every Defender behaves randomly. I ahve been at the point to upgrade the suspension, but then I would loose the warranty.ch M I think I read somewhere that you have to fit a Double Cardon front prop to clear the sump with a 2" lift on a Puma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 You should really at least fit cranked trailing arms as the trailing arms will go through the bushes at an angle and you will get premature wear in them. Fit castor corrected arms if you really need them, it really does seem to vary from vehicle to vehicle. Fit different props if the existing ones bind once it's lifted, once again this varies and is very much suck it and see ! Dislocation cones allow the springs to reseat themselves having been dislocated by articulation, if you are going to play off road you then they are a good idea, on a road car you won't need them. Adjustable panhard rods are outside my small knowledge base and we'll need a grown up to answer that one You may also need to consider longer brake hoses if you go off road although I have not yet found the need for them on mine (bugger, that's done it now, famous last words ! ) HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 for a 2" lift and std vehicle suspension droop i would just lift it and see how it goes. even with longer shocks, or drop top shock mounts (and corresponding longer brake pipes would prob be needed) you would still get away without cranked radius or trailing arms, just suspect greater bush wear as Mo states. if you go for the greater suspension travel ie lift Plus droop i would also go for wide angle props, D4x4 do a good range of them. i wouldn't (and havent) bother with cranked arms. If you do go cranked radius arms to imprive the diff angle and self centre you will need a double decarbon from my understanding to get rid of the vibration. Not sure if your lifting a 07 or td5 (or pre) but above is my experience based on pre PUMA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Hi all thanks for all the info, yes it a 90 Puma. Got an ARB bumper on the front of it + winch and fixing it up to be a overland truck. I need to fit some heavy shock and springs due to all the extra kit as I can already feel the current suspension bottoming out on the bump stops because of the load, hence the OME kit. The OME kit is like a 2" lift, hence the question, henced the answers, hence my pocket might get lighter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 My 2p... Yes to... Cranked rear trailing arms- gives the bushes a much easier time of it and improves articulation. My choice QT or D4x4. Dislocation cones and spring retainer bars- ensures that the springs reseat properly after articulation. My choice fronts QT and rears D4x4. Longer brake lines- no explaination needed... My choice David @ Llama 4x4 No to... Castor corrected arms- if you have problems with steering not self centring then I would be looking at replacement swivels that have been specially made to correct the castor angle- Paddocks are selling 'clocked' teflon coated ones for sensible money or you can (if so inclined and skilled) 'clock' your existing swivels. Adjustable Panhard rod- simply a waste of money when only lifting 2 inches as the front axle will only be shifted sideways by a very small amount. Yes you will find that your 4 wheel alignment will be out slightly- but this will be the case for pretty much all Landrovers anyway- lifted or not! Wide angle props- Maybe I have been lucky but with a 2" lift and 2" extra drop I have had no problems with standard props. As has been said certain problems only seem to occur on certain vehicles so why not change the bits as required to solve any issues that do arise. Shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Badger what kind of OME springs are you getting (what spring rate)? Will they (for sure the shock abs) be stiffer than the stock set? Have a look, if you can, to the colour code on the originals. I have a 110" Puma and I´m getting frustrated since LR changed the rear ones and nobody knows the spring specs. thanks M Hi allthanks for all the info, yes it a 90 Puma. Got an ARB bumper on the front of it + winch and fixing it up to be a overland truck. I need to fit some heavy shock and springs due to all the extra kit as I can already feel the current suspension bottoming out on the bump stops because of the load, hence the OME kit. The OME kit is like a 2" lift, hence the question, henced the answers, hence my pocket might get lighter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Badgerwhat kind of OME springs are you getting (what spring rate)? Will they (for sure the shock abs) be stiffer than the stock set? Have a look, if you can, to the colour code on the originals. I have a 110" Puma and I´m getting frustrated since LR changed the rear ones and nobody knows the spring specs. thanks M Will have a check in the morning, bit late now... Was going for the heavy duty OME ones, can't recall the spring rate now, will check this too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Will have a check in the morning, bit late now...Was going for the heavy duty OME ones, can't recall the spring rate now, will check this too. I have these on my 110 rear - Part No. 754 Axle Rear Rate (lbs./In.) 420 Recommended Application Heavy Duty (1,100 lbs.) Length (DS) 17.1" Length (PS) 17.1" Resulting Lift 3" These are the strongest they do. No mods other than OME shock absorbers, I do not have the A frame damper nor anti-roll bar. I will change the rear brake pipe, when I anticipate doing anything radical off-road. The drive is excellent and I do not notice any particular discomfort. These springs will allow considerable load capacity without in my opinion affecting light running. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Thanks for the info. I find my standard springs already stiff though. The new 110" Puma comes with different ones than the latest Td5. Who knows wjhat spring rate..... I have these on my 110 rear - Part No. 754 Axle Rear Rate (lbs./In.) 420 Recommended Application Heavy Duty (1,100 lbs.) Length (DS) 17.1" Length (PS) 17.1" Resulting Lift 3" These are the strongest they do. No mods other than OME shock absorbers, I do not have the A frame damper nor anti-roll bar. I will change the rear brake pipe, when I anticipate doing anything radical off-road. The drive is excellent and I do not notice any particular discomfort. These springs will allow considerable load capacity without in my opinion affecting light running. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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