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2.5N/A still non starter


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Still not getting the engine to fire and as my mechanical experience is still very limited, I bit the bullet and called in 'expert' help. His diagnosis was after stating he was getting a voltage at the plugs - and I had thought this myself - that the battery was well past its best. I replaced it with a new battery and although the engine turns over like never before, it still wont fire. I tried connecting a jumplead straight to the first plug, but still no luck. I cleaned the earth strap contacts between the starter and the chassis (although the cable is very manky) but was wondering if there was another from the engine block to the chassis as I cant locate this.

Everything else has checked okay - I'm getting fuel at the injectors so I think that rules out the stop solenoid (?). I individually tested the plugs and they are okay.

I'm sure it's something glaringly obvious, but if you've never done this sort of thing before, it's a minefield of possibles and maybes!

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brad .

if you bleed the injectors you need to have the ignition turned on and then turn the engine over until fuel spills from the injector pipe nuts .

make sure the fuel filter is put on properly and no air leaks etc .

to prime the filter you need ignition ON and then pump up using the fuel lift pump or by pressurising the tank via the filler cap using an air line, but not too much pressure .

on starting , when you turn the ignition key it manually needs to be turned 2/3 the way round until the heater plug dash light comes on , and then you have to manually hold the key in that position for at least 30seconds before turning the key farther round to engage the starter .

a lot of people dont realise you have to have the heater plugs on for quite some time with a 2.5n/a diesel in order for it to start successfully .

they use a paris rhone geared starter and the brushes do get worn .

you can fit an extra earth cable from the engine to the chassis but also there should be another earth cable from gearbox to chassis , this other earth is located on the passenger side and on inner chassis in the middle of it roughly where the back of the gearbox is .

the earth cable will be fixed to one of the "pto" cover bolts and then onto a tag on the chassis .

this earth may or may not be on there .

make sure you dont have a factory installed split charge diode located in the battery compartment , this looks like an ignition coil , if you do then id say take it out and dont use it because it zaps power to the starter .

i should think that if you hold the heater circuit on for the reqd 30secs or slightly longer , then the engine will fire up , so long as you have fuel up to the injectors .

the heater plugs are not on a timer on the 2.5n/a landies , or at least my 1986 90 landrover isnt .

later vehicles using 200tdi and 300tdi etc do have timed heater plug circuits .

hope you get sorted out .

ian

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hi Brad, sorry to hear you are still having problems.

I bought a 100Amp battery, with a CCA of 850 and thought 'righty ho..loads of start amps..sorted.' but it was still just cranking the engine over and not firing. Damn, thought I.

Up to my neighbour whos a mechanic, lets look at the glow plugs...sure enough 2 problems. Firstly there was a really bad connection on the second glowplug so basically as its a 'daisy chain' arrangement the pre-warmer was only heating 1 plug!! It sounds like I was a muppet but it was really not easy to see that the connection was broken on the wiring.

Secondly, 2 of the plugs were, to put it simply, carp. Something you cant know unless you take them out or, as in my neighbours case, have a voltmeter that gives you a reading whilst you hold the key in pre-warm position...so its a 2 man job.

As soon as the plugs were changed and the 'daisy-chain' repaired she started 1st time every time. As for a 30 second pre-warm...i used to do that with my 62 amp battery, now im gradually reducing it every time i start in the morning. I'm down to 12 seconds today! Im sure i can get under 10 but im a bit obsessive so doing the 1 sec reduction is easy for me! It also depends of course on the weather, your battery size and how long the land rovers been stood.

Hope this helps..as i was often told by my regiment seargent...'keep it simple,stupid'. Easy to overcomplicate a problem by ignoring the evidence. You have power and fuel...im sure its heat you need to achieve combustion.

Let me know....Mark

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o has it ever run? if not, it may be a timing / compression issue

o what happens when you crank it? any smoke / unburned fuel from the exhaust?

o if it has run, but you have had the fuel system open / drained it may take a good amount to finally purge it of air - I flattened my battery twice getting mine fired up after re-conning the injectors (I've seen people suggest tow-starting it the first time)

... just throwing some ideas out

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