The importance of cam instalation lube

[streaky]

Yep...following on from the missing cam lobe saga.

When my workshop fitted the cam to the engine I am dubious as to wether or not the used a decent cam instation lube. How critical is this on a performance cam shaft fitted with twin springs and new lifters?

Would using an EP90 gear oil be sufficient or would it not have the desired effect?

If Cam lub was used...how long could you leave it standing before the effects of the lube on the cam lobes were lost?

If EP 90 was used....same question as above.

The damaged 4.9 cam has now been replaced with a 3.9 one...but the HD twin springs are still installed. Would they cause any problems on the standad 3.9 cam shaft?

Thanks guys.

S.

[white90]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14006&st=80

will cover it

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

When my workshop fitted the cam to the engine I am dubious as to wether or not the used a decent cam instation lube. How critical is this on a performance cam shaft fitted with twin springs and new lifters?

Very critical as we are talking flat tappet cams here. You can sh@g a new camshaft on first startup if it s not done correctly................... I use this stuff.........here http://www.jegs.com/p/Comp+Cams/753157/10002/-1/10709 and here http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/...egory_Code=LUBE

Would using an EP90 gear oil be sufficient or would it not have the desired effect?

The simple answer is no, but if I had nothing else then I would use EP140...........

If Cam lub was used...how long could you leave it standing before the effects of the lube on the cam lobes were lost?

If EP 90 was used....same question as above.

Certainly days & maybe weeks ............... the correct lube leaves a film in the lobe and lifter. If I used EP140 then you are talking abour starting the engine much sooner, I wouldn't like to leave it more than a day.

The damaged 4.9 cam has now been replaced with a 3.9 one...but the HD twin springs are still installed. Would they cause any problems on the standad 3.9 cam shaft?

Why are you using twin springs ? It is better to use a single unless you want rpm above 6500

Is this a standard 3.9 cam or a hot 3.9 cam ? If the cam is specified for hydraulic lifters then yes generally you will be OK. most high lift cams that require other mods will be clear about what mods are required ......... usually 100 thou off the valve guide boss and / or special springs to stop spring bind.

Be sure to check the preload ............ ideally 20 - 60 thou ........... but remember that factory engines had them set to 110 - 120 thou to allow for engine wear over time................ I am happy with 40 - 80 thou............

It is important to break in the cam correctly. if its the older type engine (pre serp) then bring up the oil pressure with an electric drill, then start the engine and don't let it drop below 2000rpm for 20 minutes. Vary the engine speed gently between 2000 and 2500 for this period. If you have to stop the engine due to other reasons then just cut from 2000 .......... don't go back to idle.

Correct lubrication and break in of flat tappet cams is critical to their well being........

Here is a technical bulletin from Comp Cams

11-28-05

Research & Development Dept.

TECH BULLETIN

Flat Tappet Camshafts

Recent changes in oil and engine technology are likely the cause of

premature camshaft failure; here’s what you can do to protect your engine!

Premature flat tappet camshaft failure has been an issue of late and not just with one brand or type of camshaft.

In almost every case, the hardness or the taper of the cam lobe is suspected, yet most of the time that is not the

problem. This growing trend is due to factors that are unrelated to camshaft manufacture or quality. Changes in

today's oil products and “advanced” internal engine design have contributed to a harsher environment for the

camshaft and a potential for failure during break-in. But there are several things you can do to turn the tide on

this discouraging trend.

Proper Camshaft Set-Up & Break-In

Proper flat tappet camshaft set-up and break-in, as any engine builder knows, are keys to how long a camshaft

will last, both short and long term. Making certain that the camshaft and lifters are properly lubricated will guarantee

that the camshaft and lifters are protected during the critical initial start-up of your newly-built engine.

COMP Cams® offers the right product for this job (Part #154), and it is available in several different size containers

for engine builder convenience. To further enhance this “relationship,” we strongly recommend the use of

COMP Cams® Camshaft Break-In Oil Additive (Part #159) during the break-in. While this additive was originally

developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long

term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter

failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from

off-the-shelf oil. These specialized COMP Cams® lubricants are the best “insurance policy” you can buy and the

first step to avoiding durability problems with your new flat tappet camshaft.

Adequate Lubrication

Another major factor in the increase of flat tappet camshaft failure is your favorite brand of engine oil. Simply put,

today’s engine oil is just not the same as it used to be, thanks to ever tightening environmental regulations. The

EPA has done a great job in reducing emissions and the effects of some of the ingredients found in traditional oils;

however these changes to the oil have only made life tougher on your camshaft. The lubricity of the oil and specifically

the reduction of important additives such as zinc and manganese, which help break-in and overall camshaft

life, have been drastically reduced. In terms of oil selection, we recommend Shell Rotella T oil for the break-in

procedure. Most often used in diesel engine applications, this higher lubricity oil works in gasoline engines

as well.

Today’s engines are great at providing oil to every engine component except one - your camshaft. Windage trays, limiting oil’s

ability to reach the top of the engine, modification of connecting rod side clearances for less splash oil and special oil pans further

complicate both the break-in process and camshaft operation in general. But there are several things you can do to correct

these problems.

COMP Cams® offers flat tappet lifters with oiling holes in the cam face surface, which will increase oil flow to the lifter-camshaft

lobe contact point. Furthermore, using a lifter bore grooving tool (COMP Cams® #5003) will enhance oiling throughout the

camshaft and valve train. As we all know by now, better oil flow means better initial break-in and increased camshaft durability.

Flat Tappet Lifter Selection – Choose Carefully!

In addition to these engine modifications, make certain you purchase high-quality lifters. Most lifters look alike, but you don’t really

know where they were produced. “Imported” flat tappets often times use inferior lifter castings and DO NOT deliver the durability

of COMP Cams® high-quality, US-built lifters. COMP Cams® lifters are built to strict diameter and radius tolerances and

designed to fit precisely within their lifter bores. This ensures the lifter rotates properly and decreases the potential for failure.

Additionally, COMP Cams® Flat Tappet Lifters have the correct oil band depth and location to properly regulate the internal oiling

of your engine.

• Double check your camshaft and lifter set-up prior to the break-in process, and use an ample amount of the

supplied assembly lube on all lobes, distributor gear and the face of bottom of each lifter.

• Use high-lubricity engine oil such as Shell Rotella T oil to help during the break-in process, or use COMP

Cams® Camshaft Break-In Oil Additive (Part #159).

• Use flat tappet lifters with cam face oiling provisions, such as COMP Cams® Part #800-16 (GM) or

#817-16 (Ford).

• Use a COMP Cams® Lifter Bore Grooving Tool (#5003) to increase oiling.

• Use high-quality, U.S.-built COMP Cams® lifters to make certain you are receiving the best quality lifter you

can buy. Avoid “brown bag” lifters.

Competition Cams, Inc.

3406 Democrat Road

Memphis, TN 38118

901.795.2400

Here are the Comp Cams break in instructions that I have lifted from a large installation document.........

Camshaft Break-in Procedure

Important: On hydraulic and mechanical (solid) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the

inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and

develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the RPM up to 2000 to 2500 during the

first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate

amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine RPM may be varied periodically between 2000 to

2500 to direct oil splash different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change

the oil and filter again to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are remove from the engine. The

inner valve springs can now be replaced.

Then we can see what Crane Cams have to say..........

Lobe wear

Incorrect break-in lubricant.

Use only the Moly Paste, Part Number 99002-1 that is included with the cam. This Moly Paste must be applied to every cam lobe surface, and to the bottom of every lifter face of all flat tappet cams. Roller tappet cams only require engine oil to be applied to the lifters and cam. Also, apply the Moly Paste to the distributor gears on the cam and distributor for all camshafts. For extra protection, an anti-wear additive should be added, such as Crane Super Lube, Part Number 99003-1.

Correct break-in procedure.

After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.

If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure.

Spring pressure

Normal recommended spring seat pressure for most mild street-type flat tappet cams is between 85 to 105 lbs. More radical street and race applications may use valve spring seat pressure between 105 to 130 lbs. For street hydraulic roller cams, seat pressure should range from 105 to 140 lb. Spring seat pressure for mechanical street roller cams should not exceed 150 lb. Race roller cams with high lift and spring pressure are not recommended for street use, because of a lack of oil splash onto the cam at low speed running to help cool the cam and lubricate the lifters. This high spring pressure causes the heat created at the cam to be transferred to the roller wheel, resulting in its early failure. Any springs that may be used must be assembled to the manufacturer?s recommended height. Never install springs without verifying the correct assembled height and pressures.

Crane Cams Note:

Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase, and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to it's early demise.

HTH

Ian