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Battery And Alternator Questions


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Hello everybody nice to see a new Landy forum.

I was posting this question in LRE and "proctoriv" (hello Ivan!) tall me about Land Rover Addict.

So here is my questions (maybe someone have read it already in LRE).

I'm in the way to fit a Optima dual battery system (red/yellow) with a IBS Split System, in order to handle the winch, extra lights and a improved sound system and some other things that will come later… 

I have few questions and doubts. 
Wen a bought the car was coming with a Warn M8000 connect to the original battery. I should connect it in the secondary battery, right? some people tell me that and some others I should wired in the main. What is the best? 
Another issue with the battery and winch is I should install a isolator? Why? 

The car also was coming with a Webastoo I should wired in the secondary battery? 

Depends of the total watts I will install in the Audio I will have to think in the alternator, just in case I will like to know few things. 
The alternator in a Defender 110 TD5 (2001) is rated a 120 Amp. Is that right? 
If I need it, can I fit a HO Alternator keeping the 12V, whitout to melt all the cables? What is the max limit Amp? Maybe that is a silly question bud I saw alternators at 375Amp 12v. 

Thanks a lot

Salva

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As Siggy says wire them into the yellow battery. This means you can flatten your yellow top & still start off your red top.

I would personally fit an isolator switch to the winch. I remember reading, in oz people used to drag the winch cable over the roof of the vehicle and attach it to the tow bar. They then shorted out the control box so the cable spoolled in and cut the vehicle in half.

Martin

1996 Defender 90

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My wabasto is wired to the auxillary battery, it only draws about 5 amps but its about 15mins to get the engine up to heat. If you work out amp minutes instead of amp hours drawn, this is more than starting the engine, so the main battery won't like it. I did use a "normal" battery as the aux for a while but they seldom lasted more than a year. A proper "lesiure" type battery has been ok for the last 3 years now.

As for alternators 120a will be fine any higher about and you will fry the wiring. You need v thick wire to carry 375a continuously! :unsure: get some decent batteries and the standard alternator will be fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all

Why do people buy these Optima's when you can get the Exide Maxima for less and they are the same spiral cell technology but have four post on top and two on the side. They come in a std type or deep cycle and both are about the same price. I paid £110 inc VAT for my last Maxima !

Also if you use hydraulic or PTO winches then the demand on your electrical system is greatly reduced. Looking at deep cycle batterys I have found that the std vehicle alternator does not have the ideal charge curve characteristic's for this purpose. If you look into marine systems then you find that they use large banks of deep cycle batterys but also with a more elaborate control system that replaces the std regulator in your alternator.

By the way hello to everyone and especially those like myself who have migrated from a recently closed down forum that was associated with a magazine run by some orifice normally found between a pair of cheeks !

all the best Roy

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they probably buy optimas cos they are better.......i had had 2 exide maxximas fail in 6 months...... and never found out why, they got sent back but i never heard anything from exide.

ive had a blue top optima for years and ive never had to touch it.

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Hi Gelf

Sorry to hear you had issues but theres no logical reason for that, probabily a case of sod's law.

I was told some time back when I was looking into batteries that the cores in the optima's are made by Exide. Could be why the optima looks like it has had a pair of terminals removed on top !

If cost was not a limiting factor then I would have got Hawker Oddessey that use AGM technology.

One thing I have not fully got to the bottom of is the charge cycle of these types of batteries which is different from lead acid types and the charge algorithms used in alternators. This could mean some alternators may not be very good when it comes to charging these liquid free or gel type batteries. Modern alternators are now ultilising things like soft charge & smart charging to increase battery life.

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Today I receive my battery isolator !It's huge!

I suppose I have to unbolt the phenolic part from the steel plate to mounted in the battery box. I'ts that rigth? And make a hole with a step drill? Someone know the size? I will appreciate some help how to install and wired it?

I bought the isolator with the "L" key.

Heavy duty battery isolator. (Phenolic moulding with steel fixing plate and removable key. 250Amps @ 24v, 2500A for 5 secs.)

Is this one OK or I make a mistake?

For more info/pict:

www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/battisol/battisol.html

Thanks!

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